I've managed to get every nut bolt and screw out of the back half of my 7, except one lousy brake line fitting under the rear axle.

Any ideas on how to free this. I can't really replace the hard line as well since it runs to the front. I've soaked with pb blaster, trans fluid mixed with lacquer thinner. It's been soaking for about 8 days. Can't really use open flame heat for obvious reasons. I'm in danger of rounding off the hard line nut even using the right line wrenches.

Thanks in advance.

 

Done this many times on that exact fitting with acetylene torch,quickly...

 

vice grip pliers have always served me well on any thing where a wrench just slips. but the correct size line wrench rarely will round the fitting unless it was somewhat rounded to begin with. figure a way to hold that distribution block firmly and a sharp blow with a hammer of palm of the hand on the wrench usually works too.

 

Thanks for the advice, I'll work on this tomorrow, even the shop is too hot/humid today.

I think the line wrench is loose because if some metal rusting away.

I think I'll try vice grips on the block side (too slim to get a good bite with an open ended wrench and the line wrench with few sharp blows.

If it rounds off, are the hard line ends available? I have access to a flaring tool. I read in posts that the SA and FB have different pitch, but are the ends a Mazda only design, or just odd because they are old Japanese and metric?
Thanks

 

If you’re asking about fittings on end of lines,they are metric and are available at any auto parts store.
You’re going to have to cut back the line to flare the end with a new fitting and very likely it will then be too short.

You don’t have to replace the entire hard line to front of car. Buy a length of 6mm line with fittings long enough to where you can cut hard line going to front of car.
Buy one flare nut fitting and one coupler.
Install new line to axle fitting.Determine where you want to splice hard line to front and cut line,slip fitting in and flare the end. Use coupler to join both sections of line. Safe,professional repair.

 

Heat and vice grips on the like nut and whack it with a hammer to try and move it. Once it starts moving it will come out.

 

Patience paid off! I soaked in a cup of lacquer thinner and trans fluid last night and it broke loose without damaging the nut. Nice new brake line and now I can start piecing together the fuel nest of hoses under the car and then on to rear brakes (that no conventional brake tools work) to get back together.

I'll start on the upper and lower links next week.

Watts link is all powder coated and waiting for installation next week too!

 

flare wrenches >>> https://www.autozone.com/wrenches-pl...are-nut-wrench <<< are good for rusted on brake lines. That glycols just loves to oxidize (rust) metal.