Taking RUSTED/SEIZED brake rotors off in 7 easy steps
Taking RUSTED/SEIZED brake rotors off in 7 easy steps
No more banging and headaches in taking rusted, seized rotors off!!
1. Take wheel off
2. Take caliper off
3. Use impact driver with sledge hammer to take screws off rotor
4. Take 10 TON hydrolic bearing puller and attach to brake rotor.
5. Pump once
6. Pump twice
7. Pump 3 times
Presto! Rotor comes rite off!
Took me a total of 10 mins.
The rotor was BADLY rusted too!
Damn I love that tool!
1. Take wheel off
2. Take caliper off
3. Use impact driver with sledge hammer to take screws off rotor
4. Take 10 TON hydrolic bearing puller and attach to brake rotor.
5. Pump once
6. Pump twice
7. Pump 3 times
Presto! Rotor comes rite off!
Took me a total of 10 mins.
The rotor was BADLY rusted too!
Damn I love that tool!
Last edited by pd_day; Apr 29, 2002 at 04:52 PM.
the brake rotors on my TII were all original. i wanted to kill myself when we changed them. they refused to come off by any *normal* method. turbovr6 *convinced* them to come off 
Originally posted by vosko
the brake rotors on my TII were all original. i wanted to kill myself when we changed them. they refused to come off by any *normal* method. turbovr6 *convinced* them to come off
the brake rotors on my TII were all original. i wanted to kill myself when we changed them. they refused to come off by any *normal* method. turbovr6 *convinced* them to come off
I came, I saw, I boosted.
Joined: Apr 2001
Posts: 1,921
Likes: 0
From: Windsor, Ontario, Canada
Those locating screws, I beleive, have NO purpose EXCEPT for makeing life difficult!! What a joke those things are.
WTF was Mazda thinking!!!???
"Hmm.... lets make the front rotors really hard to change with some star head screws, even though 5 lugs nuts hold the rotor on anyways.....
The back rotors?? No problem, let's make a hole so you can thread a bolt in and pop the rotor off, real easy... because you'll never have to change the back ones! The front ones though! HAH- let's punish those lazy Americans...."
I just heated mine up with a torch (just because I can- not like it did much) and beat the **** out of them from behind with a sledge. Had to change the wheel bearing after because I shattered it.
Oh well. Don't new rotors look purdy???
WTF was Mazda thinking!!!???
"Hmm.... lets make the front rotors really hard to change with some star head screws, even though 5 lugs nuts hold the rotor on anyways.....
The back rotors?? No problem, let's make a hole so you can thread a bolt in and pop the rotor off, real easy... because you'll never have to change the back ones! The front ones though! HAH- let's punish those lazy Americans...."
I just heated mine up with a torch (just because I can- not like it did much) and beat the **** out of them from behind with a sledge. Had to change the wheel bearing after because I shattered it.
Oh well. Don't new rotors look purdy???
Originally posted by Bambam7
I just heated mine up with a torch (just because I can- not like it did much) and beat the **** out of them from behind with a sledge. Had to change the wheel bearing after because I shattered it.
Oh well. Don't new rotors look purdy???
I just heated mine up with a torch (just because I can- not like it did much) and beat the **** out of them from behind with a sledge. Had to change the wheel bearing after because I shattered it.
Oh well. Don't new rotors look purdy???
I though about heating them up. However I was being lazy, didn't want to re-grease the bearings (heat will dry up the grease FAST)
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Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 693
Likes: 0
From: Olympia, WA
I had a machine shop try a hydrolic press on mine a few days ago and they still could not get them out. I finally had a local place (Rapid Brake) lathe them out. They were REALLY RUSTY! Those damm hubs cost $500 each from the dealer. I really wanted to save mine. They work great know. HAAA 10 ton press didn't work for me.
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josef 91 vert
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