Electric Engine Fan Swap
#1
Senior Member
Thread Starter
Electric Engine Fan Swap
I've be reading about folks replacing their FB fan clutch with electric fans from a Taurus or Toyota MR2.
Anyone have the year of either I should be looking out for? Understand 2000 cfm is a good place to start.
Also, anyone got any instructions for how to hook up said fan to my punie RX7 power plant? Do I need a new alternator?
Anyone have the year of either I should be looking out for? Understand 2000 cfm is a good place to start.
Also, anyone got any instructions for how to hook up said fan to my punie RX7 power plant? Do I need a new alternator?
#2
Moderator
iTrader: (3)
for the MR2, you'd be looking for the Mk1 (Gen 1) which is something like 1985-89.
here is a thread that references the Taurus fan: https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...us-fan-463959/
here is a thread that references the Taurus fan: https://www.rx7club.com/1st-generati...us-fan-463959/
#3
3D Printed
The alternator should be upgraded for an electric fan, yes. The stock alt on these cars is weak for anything more than the original electrical load. Throw in old corroded wires and it's barely up to the task.
The S4 alternator is a plug-n-play upgrade. After that the next logical step is the S6 alternator for even more amperage, but it does require some very basic re-wiring. It's been documented here a ton, just do some looking for "S6 alt swap" and you'll find stuff.
The S4 alternator is a plug-n-play upgrade. After that the next logical step is the S6 alternator for even more amperage, but it does require some very basic re-wiring. It's been documented here a ton, just do some looking for "S6 alt swap" and you'll find stuff.
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#4
Damn, it did start!
I have noticed that for my 13b swapped 1980 the 4" taurus fan would likely not fit. Especially with the Koyo radiator. I will like be using the V6 Contour dual fan. 3500cfm and 3.5" deep
#5
Senior Member
Thread Starter
FB Electric Fan
Will these components be all I need to get the job done?
1. Electric Fan Accessory, Thermostat Temperture Control
2. Electric Fan Accessory, Adjustable Temperature Sensor Kit
3. Engine Cooling Fan Blade and Motor Assembly - Electric - FlexaLite (2200 cfm)
4. Electric Fan A/C Relay
5. Misc. brackets, lockwashers, and screws
1. Electric Fan Accessory, Thermostat Temperture Control
2. Electric Fan Accessory, Adjustable Temperature Sensor Kit
3. Engine Cooling Fan Blade and Motor Assembly - Electric - FlexaLite (2200 cfm)
4. Electric Fan A/C Relay
5. Misc. brackets, lockwashers, and screws
#6
Waffles - hmmm good
iTrader: (1)
Will these components be all I need to get the job done?
1. Electric Fan Accessory, Thermostat Temperture Control
2. Electric Fan Accessory, Adjustable Temperature Sensor Kit
3. Engine Cooling Fan Blade and Motor Assembly - Electric - FlexaLite (2200 cfm)
4. Electric Fan A/C Relay
5. Misc. brackets, lockwashers, and screws
1. Electric Fan Accessory, Thermostat Temperture Control
2. Electric Fan Accessory, Adjustable Temperature Sensor Kit
3. Engine Cooling Fan Blade and Motor Assembly - Electric - FlexaLite (2200 cfm)
4. Electric Fan A/C Relay
5. Misc. brackets, lockwashers, and screws
#7
3D Printed
In the next week or two I'll be finally installing my electric fan setup as well. The fan itself is a 16" 3000 cfm Flex-a-lite slim fan (it should clear the water pump pulley based on my measurements). I feel like 2200 might be cutting it a little close, although that's not speaking from experience, yet. It would also significantly depend on your shroud setup, or lack there-of. Once I find out how mine works I should be able to offer some better insight.
Depending on your current electrical situation (if you've added wires for amps, extra lights, etc.) it may be worth looking at a new under-hood fuse block. I'll be adding one since I've got an additional five or so circuit under the hood now and it should tidy things up while providing a better way to fuse everything.
Depending on your current electrical situation (if you've added wires for amps, extra lights, etc.) it may be worth looking at a new under-hood fuse block. I'll be adding one since I've got an additional five or so circuit under the hood now and it should tidy things up while providing a better way to fuse everything.
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#8
Rotary Enthusiast
iTrader: (1)
I picked up a radiator fan from, I believe, a 1994 Mercury Sable. Which is a Dorman 620-101 and did a few mods to it to get it to fit better. First it is the skinnier of the two Sable, Taurus, Continental fans. Dorman 620-133. I believe it's about an inch difference thickness and the -133 is a bit longer too I think..
First off, I have a Koyo Aluminum Radiator (the tall one for the later year rx-7s) not sure how much thicker it is but in full disclosure I included that info.
On to the mods, I noticed on the fan where the motor is mounted there are molded stand-offs. So, it the interest of making this as compact as possible I unbolted the motor and shaved the standoffs down a little so the motor mounts closer to the body of the shroud this reduces the thickness probably 4-5 mm (you could probably skip this step).
Next, I cut off the tab and mounting point (fig 1) on the driver's side (US)and bolted a thin sheet metal strap to what's left using the remaining holes. This allowed me to mount the fan to the radiator using the determined mounting point on the driver's side. (fig 2) Then, I cut little slits on the passenger side to slide the mounting tabs from the radiator into. (fig 3) And this completes mounting to the passenger side. Also in fig 3 the photo angle looks like the tab is not in the slit. It is.
Finally in the last picture (fig 4) I (poorly) show the space left between the eccentric shaft and the fan. The motor is lower and to the side more. It is close but there is a fair amount of space between the two.
Fig 1
Fig 2
(fig 3)
(fig 4)
First off, I have a Koyo Aluminum Radiator (the tall one for the later year rx-7s) not sure how much thicker it is but in full disclosure I included that info.
On to the mods, I noticed on the fan where the motor is mounted there are molded stand-offs. So, it the interest of making this as compact as possible I unbolted the motor and shaved the standoffs down a little so the motor mounts closer to the body of the shroud this reduces the thickness probably 4-5 mm (you could probably skip this step).
Next, I cut off the tab and mounting point (fig 1) on the driver's side (US)and bolted a thin sheet metal strap to what's left using the remaining holes. This allowed me to mount the fan to the radiator using the determined mounting point on the driver's side. (fig 2) Then, I cut little slits on the passenger side to slide the mounting tabs from the radiator into. (fig 3) And this completes mounting to the passenger side. Also in fig 3 the photo angle looks like the tab is not in the slit. It is.
Finally in the last picture (fig 4) I (poorly) show the space left between the eccentric shaft and the fan. The motor is lower and to the side more. It is close but there is a fair amount of space between the two.
Fig 1
Fig 2
(fig 3)
(fig 4)
Last edited by yeti; 12-15-20 at 10:11 AM.
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