Easiest way to remove transmission without lift.
03-30-10, 03:16 AM
#26
-Don't forget to remove the SHIFT LEVER!...
-recommend you take a PIC of how wires connect to STARTER. Very handy reference....
-Use the OLD pilot bearing carrier to guide in the NEW bearing (with gentle help from rubber hammer)!
LOVE the WD-40 capo idea - thanks!
Stu Aull
80GS
Alaska
03-30-10, 05:54 AM
#27
Lives on the Forum
To insert the pilot bearing and seal, I used a 14mm socket on a short extension and hammered it in. The fit was perfect. I had thought about using the old bearing to drive the new one in, but the socket and extension was a bit easier to handle. 
03-30-10, 05:59 AM
#28
I will remember to take a picture of all the wiring to the starter, I haven't thought of that. Thanks. And I will probably have to go with the 14mm socket extension to drive back in the seal and pilot bearing. Seems to be the easier way. Thanks for the tips.
03-30-10, 07:32 AM
#29
While you are under there it's a great time to do some degreasing, especially around the starter, where oil from the behive has a habit of ending up. The grease and oil is hard on the starter connections and other wires and hoses in that area, plus it's just hard to work with.
So I usually start by drenching the area with engine degreaser (the cheap stuff from autozone) and then hosing it down really well (no pressure washers allowed!). A hot soapy wash and good rinse will leave the area virtually grease free, much easier to work on and easier on the eye.
So I usually start by drenching the area with engine degreaser (the cheap stuff from autozone) and then hosing it down really well (no pressure washers allowed!). A hot soapy wash and good rinse will leave the area virtually grease free, much easier to work on and easier on the eye.
03-30-10, 07:43 AM
#30
FB=OS Giken LSD
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Why diconnect the starter? Obviously dissconnect the battery, then hang the starter with zip-ties underneath the car. It will save you some time messing with connections.
03-30-10, 08:49 AM
#31
without pics, here's how i remove an FB trans:
-remove the shifter surround and remove the three bolts holding the shifter to the trans.(3 10 mm bolts)
-disconnect the battery
-disconnect the clutch hose from the hard line, as there is no need to waste time or energy removing the slave cylinder from the trans. its a good time to bleed the system anyways (10 mm flare wrench)
-remove the top trans bolts (trans bolts are 14mm)
-jack the car up and remove the exhaust from the manifold to the extention pipe (four nuts)
-remove the filler plug..just to be on the safe side then drain the trans. (14mm open end wrench)
-disconnect the power feed to the starter and the switch wire from the starter solenoid and remove the starter (one long and one short bolt. both 14mm)
-remove the driveshaft (four 12mm nuts and tap the bolts through the flange. a mallet may be needed if the driveshaft flange is rusted to the diff flange)
-disconnect the wiring for the reverse light switch and 5th gear switch (GSL-SE)
-remove the speedometer cable from the trans
-support the trans and remove all remaining trans to engine bolts (14mm. 5 total bolts), remove the two long 14mm bolts the trans crossmember to body and wiggle trans down and use your own method here. i take the trans down of a floor jack if i'm not using a lift.
when the trans is down and you are replacing the clutch, its a goot time to clean out the bell housing and replace the trans mount. its also wise to clean the connections on the reverse light switch and replace the tail shaft seal with a new seal. you may also want to clean the sleeve that the throwout bearing rides on and regrease that area as well. if you want to go all out, replace the front trans seal qas well to avoid future trans leak issues. i also like to grease the input shaft where the pilot bearing rides it also helps slide the sucker back together. i'm not sure if i have any pics handy as of yet but as soon as i can i'll post the pics.
-remove the shifter surround and remove the three bolts holding the shifter to the trans.(3 10 mm bolts)
-disconnect the battery
-disconnect the clutch hose from the hard line, as there is no need to waste time or energy removing the slave cylinder from the trans. its a good time to bleed the system anyways (10 mm flare wrench)
-remove the top trans bolts (trans bolts are 14mm)
-jack the car up and remove the exhaust from the manifold to the extention pipe (four nuts)
-remove the filler plug..just to be on the safe side then drain the trans. (14mm open end wrench)
-disconnect the power feed to the starter and the switch wire from the starter solenoid and remove the starter (one long and one short bolt. both 14mm)
-remove the driveshaft (four 12mm nuts and tap the bolts through the flange. a mallet may be needed if the driveshaft flange is rusted to the diff flange)
-disconnect the wiring for the reverse light switch and 5th gear switch (GSL-SE)
-remove the speedometer cable from the trans
-support the trans and remove all remaining trans to engine bolts (14mm. 5 total bolts), remove the two long 14mm bolts the trans crossmember to body and wiggle trans down and use your own method here. i take the trans down of a floor jack if i'm not using a lift.
when the trans is down and you are replacing the clutch, its a goot time to clean out the bell housing and replace the trans mount. its also wise to clean the connections on the reverse light switch and replace the tail shaft seal with a new seal. you may also want to clean the sleeve that the throwout bearing rides on and regrease that area as well. if you want to go all out, replace the front trans seal qas well to avoid future trans leak issues. i also like to grease the input shaft where the pilot bearing rides it also helps slide the sucker back together. i'm not sure if i have any pics handy as of yet but as soon as i can i'll post the pics.
Last edited by mazdaverx713b; 03-30-10 at 08:58 AM.
03-30-10, 11:30 AM
#33
I'm thinking that I'm only going to replace the pilot bearing right now, because that is all that needs to be replaced, and money is a little bit short for me at the moment. Thanks a lot for those steps and picture though, they will really help out. I will probably also just take out the starter and slave cylinder, since they are fairly easy parts to remove, and I don't want to damage them at all. Is the the whole clutch assembly fairly easy to remove? It seems like it would be, and what fluid brand would you guys recommend for the transmission?
03-30-10, 11:31 AM
#34
While you are under there it's a great time to do some degreasing, especially around the starter, where oil from the behive has a habit of ending up. The grease and oil is hard on the starter connections and other wires and hoses in that area, plus it's just hard to work with.
So I usually start by drenching the area with engine degreaser (the cheap stuff from autozone) and then hosing it down really well (no pressure washers allowed!). A hot soapy wash and good rinse will leave the area virtually grease free, much easier to work on and easier on the eye.
So I usually start by drenching the area with engine degreaser (the cheap stuff from autozone) and then hosing it down really well (no pressure washers allowed!). A hot soapy wash and good rinse will leave the area virtually grease free, much easier to work on and easier on the eye.
03-30-10, 12:44 PM
#37
that exhaust is 100% oem bone stock except for the main converter, which was replaced before i aquired the car. this is a car i converted form auto to manual and you may notice the different trans mount and mounting plate. also, trust me, its much eaiser to remove the clutch hose from the hard line at the firewall than to remove the entire slave cylinder from the bellhousing.
03-30-10, 03:21 PM
#40
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redline is nice if you're spendy, if you're cheap 50/50 atf and normal gear oil is great too
03-30-10, 08:33 PM
#43
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That particular time was after removing and replacing the trans 3 times before, so I pretty much had the process down to a science. I did it in a friends driveway and his tenant was baffled that I knew how to do it. I laughed and said, while your learning **** in school, I'm learning **** about this car.
03-31-10, 07:37 AM
#45
the pilot bearing requires a special removal tool made by mazda. i have heard of others using non mazda tools for the job but wheni tried i failed miserably and bought the mazda puller. one of the best investments i have ever made:
03-31-10, 10:50 AM
#46
I've read a lot that it is very hard to remove a pilot bearing. Since I am a little tight on funds, I am going to put wet paper in the hole and hammer in there. It will act like a hydraulic system, forcing the bearing out. If I had the money though, I would buy the bearing removal tool.
03-31-10, 12:50 PM
#47
actually i've used grease to do that. but the last pilot i replaced i doubt that method would have worked. i ended up renting a puller and slide hammer(yes have to get both) from either advanced or autozone. they charge u the cost of the tool and get it back when u return the tool making it free to rent in the end.
03-31-10, 05:16 PM
#48
So, I started the procedure tonight and when I drained the tranny, there were about 3 very very very small pieces of metal that were at the drain hole, I felt inside to make sure there wasn't anymore and there wasn't. I will show the pics then, but is that a big problem, or not really? I also drained the rear diff fluid, and what do you guys recommend for rear diff fluid? I will post pictures in about an hour (I'm still working). Thanks for the help.
03-31-10, 07:17 PM
#49
Well here is what happened today,
Put her up on ramps, it was a little close in the front.
Then there were the small metal pieces from draining the trans fluid,
Removed the shift linkage,
Disconnected driveshaft, broken speedo cable, and drained rear diff fluid.
Disconnected starter,
and then finally took out the cluster,
Put her up on ramps, it was a little close in the front.
Then there were the small metal pieces from draining the trans fluid,
Removed the shift linkage,
Disconnected driveshaft, broken speedo cable, and drained rear diff fluid.
Disconnected starter,
and then finally took out the cluster,
03-31-10, 07:26 PM
#50
It was quite a tough day for me and rex, but I did get some other things done,
washed the daily driver,
I was able to work a little on a side project of mine,
Here's the man of the hour, and my best friend of the day.
What model Holley fuel pump is this?
Cat or no cat?
And then we ended our day, on a good note with eachother, in the sunset...
washed the daily driver,
I was able to work a little on a side project of mine,
Here's the man of the hour, and my best friend of the day.
What model Holley fuel pump is this?
Cat or no cat?
And then we ended our day, on a good note with eachother, in the sunset...