Dan_s_young

iTrader: (1)

Rewire that fuel pump, marretts have no place in the wiring of a car... It looks like a presilencer in your exhaust, and I would tear the transmission appart if I found chunks of metal in it. A manual transmission is pretty simple in operation, I can't tell what the chunks are from, but it would be a very good idea to tear it appart and find out.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

glad to see that you got a lot accomplished! why did you remove the instrument cluster and why did you drain the diff oil?

food7373

iTrader: (2)

I took out the cluster because I have to put in a new speedo cable, mine snapped somehow, but oh well. And I though I might as well drain the diff oil and change it with the trans oil.

food7373

iTrader: (2)

I'll look into rewiring the fuel pump maybe today or tomorrow, and I will do some research to see how hard it is to break into a transmission, I know it would be good experience for me, but my my other half says I would end up doing more harm than good. I will read about taking it apart though, thanks for the advice. I also might have to get rid of the presilencer. hehe.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

yeah i'd leave it alone, but plan on finding a new one, or start reading about rebuilding.

its a judgement call, but if you don't mind pulling it out again later, you skip the step where the car is down all summer cause the transmission is apart

food7373

iTrader: (2)

I'm thinking about just getting a new one later in the summer. I don't mind taking it down again, it's good experience for me, and by then I should be able to use a lift. But since the pieces were so small, I hope that is not going to effect the driving a lot. I will probably buy a new/used one, and rebuild mine for the experience.

gsl-se addict

iTrader: (3)

For pulling the pilot bearing, I made a simple tool with a bolt, nut, and a modified washer. Simple and cheap. I can get a pic of it later for you.

food7373

iTrader: (2)

That'd be a great help if you could grab a picture. ^ Thanks!

Dcashdollar

iTrader: (8)

If your engine is out. Jack the rear end up and remove the drive shaft. The just get in the engine bay and yank the thing out. That's how I got mine out

food7373

iTrader: (2)

The engine is in, so I can't do it that way.

food7373

iTrader: (2)

So I got the tranny out, pics later, and I didn't remove pressure plate yet because I don't have the pilot bearing yet, but I do have a question. Is the throwout bearing suppose to have grooves on the inside of it? Mine does and I wasn't sure if they're suppose to be there, or not.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

if "inside the bearing" u mean where it slides on the tubing part of the front seal cover, all the ones i've seen were smooth.

food7373

iTrader: (2)

Okay, well it looks like I will replace that too. Thanks for the help.

food7373

iTrader: (2)

When trying to loosen the bolts holding the pressure plate on, it spins around. How do you guys recommend I remove the pressure plate? And to reinstall the pressure plate and clutch, how would you guys re-install them without alignment tools?

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

you need an alignment tool for reinstalling the disc and pressure plate. if you buy a clutch kit, it shuld come with the alignment tool. if you are having an issue with the flywheel spinning when you are trying to remove the the pressure plate bolts, you have a few options. first one is an impact gun. the second is a flywheel stop from mazdatrix. it bolts to the engine and engages the flywheel's ring gear and locks the flywheel into place. another option is to have someone place the tip of a flat head screwdriver into the ring gear's teeth, going with the gear's pattern, not against it. this is a last resort. i've jerked the ratchet with the socket instead of turning it and sometimes thats enough to free the bolts without spinning the flywheel.

food7373

iTrader: (2)

I will see if one of my mechanic buddies have got an alignment tool. I was able to get the bolts off with some leverage, so that worked out. I will throw up some pics of the clutch and pressure plate in about 5 minutes or less. I have some questions about them.

food7373

iTrader: (2)

Here are the pictures from today and yesterday,


My dad, brother, and I got the trans out yesterday.


I got the pressure plate out today. There are rivets on the fingers (you can see them on the picture), so should I replace it, or keep using it until the next trans drop?


Is this a 1983 throwout bearing? I'm pretty sure it is, just not 100%.


Rivets in the pressure plate fingers. The pressure plate also has a little symbol on it and in the middle of the symbol, it says DK, so what pressure plate is it?


What kind of clutch is this? I'm not sure, and is it time to replace it, or does it look like its still usable?

Thanks for the help guys. This has been a big help. And if anyone is looking for a GTUs that is a real GTUs, look in the 2nd gen FS thread, I have one for sale there.

mazdaverx713b

iTrader: (91)

not sure which t/o bearing you have. they are identical from 79-82 and then 83-85. the wear on teh pressure plate's fingers is normal wear form the t/o bearing. the clutch disc is an aftermarket "puck" type unit. from the pic its hard to tell how worn the disc is..but with that said, if its all apart, i would replace all clutch components to include the pilot bearing.. the DK marking is a standard marking on the pressure plate and i've seen a lot of them on orginal and reman pressure plates.

food7373

iTrader: (2)

Okay, I will try and identify the bearing on Mazdatrix. I would replace all the clutch components, but I don't have the money right now. That will be most likely a project for the winter in the shop. I will drop the tranny again and replace the components then. Thanks a lot for the info though.

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

i've installed discs without an alignment tool many times but i recommend one for the less experienced.

food7373

iTrader: (2)

How do you align it? I don't have too much money, and it would be a great help if I could do without having to get an alignment tool.

j9fd3s

iTrader: (3)

the pilot bearing and clutch disc need to be concentric to each other, the center of both needs to be in the same place.

i just go be feel, since you can't get your head in there

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

it's like j9fd3s said. i just feel around the outside of the disc and the mating surfaces to get it all about even all the way around. i used to use the input shaft from an old
tranny but it has since grown legs and disappeared.

food7373

iTrader: (2)

Ohh, okay. When I'm putting it back together I will remember this. Thanks a lot for the help guys.

ncb13

any updates...i'm about to do the same thing in a few weeks