1979 rx7 smoke
09-19-18, 12:40 AM
#1
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1979 rx7 smoke
I have a 1979 rx-7. It was my father's and I'm in the process of getting it ready for the road once more after its been in storage for over 10 years
Had to replace the battery once done the old girl lit up like a Christmas tree. However when turning over she wants to, badly want to run but even when pumping the gas to rev the engine it doesn't hold
but burns a metric ton of oil . So much that my garage even with the door open was filled with blue smoke. The exhaust is bone dry so it's burning oil somewhere and I have no idea what the issue is.
If I've posted in the wrong area please advise and move to the correct spot thank you
I don't know much about cars but this one means a lot to me so I'd like to get it rolling . Wondered if any of you have an idea as to what this could be?
Had to replace the battery once done the old girl lit up like a Christmas tree. However when turning over she wants to, badly want to run but even when pumping the gas to rev the engine it doesn't hold
but burns a metric ton of oil . So much that my garage even with the door open was filled with blue smoke. The exhaust is bone dry so it's burning oil somewhere and I have no idea what the issue is.
If I've posted in the wrong area please advise and move to the correct spot thank you
I don't know much about cars but this one means a lot to me so I'd like to get it rolling . Wondered if any of you have an idea as to what this could be?
Last edited by GreenArrow; 09-19-18 at 02:31 AM.
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Karen Boydston Grider (02-03-20)
09-20-18, 05:35 AM
#2
How long has the car been sitting? If its been sitting for quite some time, one can expect some smoke on start up. Its likely the oil control rings on the rotors have hardened and shrunken, causing oil to enter into the combustion process. I would concentrate on removing and replacing the spark plugs, wires, cap. rotor, points, and condenser. Make sure the ignition system is in good working order. You may need to remove the gas tank and have it cleaned, install a new fuel filter and rebuild the carburetor as well. Again, depends on how long its been sitting and what's been recently replaced.
09-20-18, 01:05 PM
#3
Not knowing just how the car was prepped for storage, or what you might have done prior to the first re-start, we are at a bit of a disadvantage.
The obvious stuff: (as noted also by Above post)
-did you drain the old gas?
-and/or did you fire it up with the old gas?
-is the fuel filter renewed (under driver side rear in front of gas tank)
-did you change the oil?
You should never (too late now?) try to start a long-time standing "dry" engine. Esp rotary. galleys and areas that need to have oil present will be dry and essentially you are starting with no lube.
That said, stuff sitting internally in one position (eg, apex seals) means they could well be "stuck" in a compressed state, and need to be "released". With them stuck, there is minimal compression, making starting difficult. This could be temporary, once the engine is actually up and running. Low-compression engines are more easily started by tow-starting (and dropping into 2nd gear).
Carb especially are vulnerable to dried out gas residue gumming the works, making for hard starts (if at all) and lopey idle.
My personal choice is SEAFOAM added to the gas, and even into the carb during crank-over. This stuff is great for dissolving carbon build up and old deposits in the motor and carb. Once these deposits are cleared, internal bits will seal better and allow less oil to blow thru.
Then there is the issue of old coolant! but one step at a time eh?
Keep us posted, best of luck
Stu Aull
80GS
AK>AZ
Suffice to say that with storage that long, all fluids should be replaced, and appropriate hoses (including HEATER hoses) should be replaced at the same time.
The obvious stuff: (as noted also by Above post)
-did you drain the old gas?
-and/or did you fire it up with the old gas?
-is the fuel filter renewed (under driver side rear in front of gas tank)
-did you change the oil?
You should never (too late now?) try to start a long-time standing "dry" engine. Esp rotary. galleys and areas that need to have oil present will be dry and essentially you are starting with no lube.
That said, stuff sitting internally in one position (eg, apex seals) means they could well be "stuck" in a compressed state, and need to be "released". With them stuck, there is minimal compression, making starting difficult. This could be temporary, once the engine is actually up and running. Low-compression engines are more easily started by tow-starting (and dropping into 2nd gear).
Carb especially are vulnerable to dried out gas residue gumming the works, making for hard starts (if at all) and lopey idle.
My personal choice is SEAFOAM added to the gas, and even into the carb during crank-over. This stuff is great for dissolving carbon build up and old deposits in the motor and carb. Once these deposits are cleared, internal bits will seal better and allow less oil to blow thru.
Then there is the issue of old coolant! but one step at a time eh?
Keep us posted, best of luck
Stu Aull
80GS
AK>AZ
Suffice to say that with storage that long, all fluids should be replaced, and appropriate hoses (including HEATER hoses) should be replaced at the same time.
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