Paulieboy72

Ok o have the FSM and a haynes manual. The previous owner started a emissions delete and removed engine and trans. I will keep the emmissions delete and I'm going to simplify the nikki. I am looking for a simplfies engine wiring diagram. With all emmisions deleted the AC was also rwmoved by previous owner. Just trying to get things to work without the motor and trans in, like headlighrs wipers dashlights, windows, ect. Put a battery in and get nothing. Does ignition need power for lughts wipers and such? What does the ignition wire look lije from the drivers side harness? Have an 85 GS. I have no clue on what pluga go where except for the obvious two large orange plugs on the pass firewall.

Paulieboy72

How do I get ignition power with no motor in the car?

rxtasy3

iTrader: (2)

with the battery connected and switch in the run position, there should be 12v on the + side of the coil.

Paulieboy72

No power to the ignition or anything. PO removed the engine harness, but I shpuld still be able to gwt power to ignition right?

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

There are two harness under the hood. One that runs the coils, alt, lights, sensors on drivers side fender, and other things like low coolant, low brake fluid, low wiper fluid.

The other harness is mainly for the rats nest and oil pressure, oil level, general stuff on the engine itself. It's main connector is on the passenger side firewall. Did they remove the both harnesses? A pic would help.

Paulieboy72

No just the harness for the emissions the one that plugs into the passenger side it's like a 16 or 20 pin Orange and it connects to the Red's nest and stuff that's the only one that was removed

Paulieboy72

I would like to simplify the wiring can I remove the stuff for the coolant level the oil level and that kind of stuff I can check those manually I don't really need those and can I remove the emissions harness as I'm not running A Rat's Nest

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

You should be able to get power to the lights and other parts with that harness removed. I'd start at the battery and ensure the wiring to connected to the fusible link block and then toward the cabin. Also check for 12V at the fuse block fuse for the lights both interior and exterior. From there it's just a simple 1/2 split method of troubleshoot to see where power is missing from the source (battery).

Paulieboy72

So I used the FSM found the hot lead from battery to IGN white red tracer, ran a wire straight from batt to hot lead on ign. When I touched wire to pos battwry terminal it arced and got really hot if I left it on there to the point it woukd smoke, this bypassed the fus link. When I connect both cables to battery no power inside the car, all fuses are good. Going to check if I have power behind thw ignition w/r wire from battwry

Paulieboy72

Traced the battery cables, NEG connected to strut tower however so is the positive???? Not supposed to be attached to the body? That's bieng grounded correct? Pos cable has two cables, one goes to the strut tower bolt the other goes to the fusible link, is this right? The FSM doesn't show this well.

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

The factory negative, black with yellow stripe, has a lug that connects to a inner struct tower bolt and then on to the long bolt that attaches the starter and a battery cable holder.

The positive, solid black but a bigger gauge, goes straight to the battery. It also has a smaller wire coming from the battery terminal that goes to the fusible link block.

Paulieboy72

So the thick positive battery cable should not be attached to the strut Tower along with the negative that would be grounding out the battery correct that's where it was attached when the car came to me

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

That is correct. Not sure how the positive cable could be connected at that point. The positive doesn't have any lugs at that point. Can you post a pic or a few.

Paulieboy72

Yep will do when I get home

Paulieboy72

NEG cable

Comes up

Connects to strut tower

Positive goes to fusible link and...

Link is good I think

Pos comes up


Then its attached here

I think this is the return for the alternator

here u go, tell me what you think KC

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

For now that wiring can be used to test stuff but after getting the engine back in I'd replace the battery cables with pre-made ones. I got mine from Tractor Supply. I ran one pos cable to the starter and a shorter one from the battery connection to the fusible link block. For the neg I ran one directly from the battery and then a short pre-made from the neg to mid struct tower factory location. I then ran another from that struct tower location to the big long bolt of the alternator.

I see at least one thing not correct here. In pics 2 and 3 that show the black/yellow going to the upper strut top bolt. That connection is not factory. Somebody added that and at the current point does nothing. I'm guessing that added it to connect to the engine.

I also see the factory neg cable that goes to the midpoint point of the struct tower along with the positive cable. That is factory. The used that point to add a body ground directly from the battery neg cable. You'll also see that this also serves as a way to keep the pos cable out the the way with that twisty cable wrap but it does NOT connect top ground. I'd move that connection at that top bolt down to the factory point for the neg and have both.

pic 5 is the pos connection from the battery to the fusible link block.

pic 8 - I'm not sure what that black cable on the right hand side is. It's not factory. I'll need to trace that out.

pics 9 & 10 - This would go to the alternator main bolt.

Paulieboy72

pic 8 is the other end of the positive battery cable. i will find the factory attachment point for the negative cable and reattach it

KansasCityREPU

iTrader: (9)

Yikes. That's a direct short and would cause all kinds of issues. The factory endpoint would be the starter. So for now, disconnect that from the strut tower and tape that end up really good so it doesn't short.

Paulieboy72

thats what i thought. probably why im not getting power to the ignition or fuse box. and why the ignition wire was arcing when i ran a wire directly from battery to ignition wire (factory white with red tracer)

Paulieboy72

I ended up getting it figured out the previous owner connected positive cable that goes to the starter to the shock Tower which grounded everything out I disconnected it checked power at the ignition all things turned on except a few lights which are probably just bulbs out however the wipers do not work have to check the motors and the switch