setzep

Stock FB slave one a T2 trans??! I tried putting on the FB slave but the slave bottoms out before I can get the 2 mounting bolts in so I figured I needed a T2 slave??

GtoRx7

iTrader: (5)

Ahhh, just put some shims on there! and for that matter put some duct tape and WD-40 on it too....that will make double sure it works right!

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

I am using a TII slave as well.

Don't spend thousands of dollars on your conversion,
to cheap out on a $10 part.

setzep

I just spent some time out in the garage and now I have a working clutch. What I did to fix the slave bottoming out problem is took the push rod out and cut 1/4" off it Works out good because the slave I got with the car was new. But before I use this setup I have to make sure when I push in the clutch to the floor I get full clutch fork travel if I don't I'll get a T2 slave.

Does anyone know how much travel a T2 slave has?

kuhlrx7

does anyone else have clearence issues at the tps/heater hose area??

Rex4Life

Well to keep the thread alive I'll post my TII swap plans and hope you TII guys let me know if you see any problems.

My car is an 84 GSL-SE and the donor is an 88 AE TII with a blown motor. Going for an emissions legal stock setup with moderate intake, exhaust, and fuel pump mods. Looking for 200-220 hp with max of 8-10 psi boost. Pretty sure in Texas we can install the same year or newer engine as long as the emissions components are kept. Even those emissions components (downpipe/cat) can be changed out as long as they perform the same or better and are functionally equivalent.

Here's The Plan:

(1) Get the TII engine rebuilt with no porting. Mod the front cover for turbo oil drain. Port the turbo wastegate. Install the GSL-SE front cover, oil pan and oil pickup. Replace the fuel pulsation damper. Remove the OMP crap and set-up for premix.

(2) TII ecu and EM harness along with a modified front harness all taken from the donor. Check all wires before install. Have the injectors cleaned. Clean up and check all the sensors, emissions crap and throttle body.

(3) TII tranny with the SE shifter housing and modified shift tube. Install new shifter bushings. Any seals I should replace on the tranny?

(4) Mount the FC coil packs and fuse block.

(5) Run the front engine harness wires.

(6) Fab and install a 2 diode ecu self checker somewhere in the dash--that'll be kinda nice.

(7) Install engine/tranny with new engine mounts. That means some kind of custom tranny mount mods and a modified driveshaft. Install the TII ECU, EM harness and FCD. And yea all the other misc. sensors and minor crap.

(8) Use the existing FC exhaust till I can afford the RP downpipe/high flow cat and the RB powerpulse 84/85 muffler. Will need a 2-1/2" X 2" adapter to go from the cat to the stock connecting pipe.

(9) Use the existing GSL-SE filter box setup till I can afford a custom built K+N cold air intake setup--if it will fit up (BIG ?? here).

(10) Install a WRX sti hood scoop for the TMIC. Fab/install an air splitter for turbo side cooling and a dual path inlet duct for the IC.

(11) Install a boost gauge and pod.

Note step 12 must be done before the engine break-in period expires--i.e. keep it below 4000 rpm and no boost.

(12) Use the existing GSL-SE fuel pump setup till end of break-in. Then install a walbro 255 inline pump. Install the TII fuel pump relay and resistor with heavy gauge wire to the pump.

The order isn't exact but I think major stuff is ok.

All total I'm looking at about $3500 including the donor car, the SE was $1500. Surely will earn some of that back by parting the rest of the car. So in total I'm at about $5000 for a TII GSL-SE in good shape with a fresh rebuilt engine--that isn't too bad.

I've been pretty good about planning the wiring changes so I'll post the schematics when I know it will work.

Well guys, let me know if you see anything big I missed or if there are any problems with the setup.

Thanks for your advice, Scott

setzep

Looks like you did a lot of planing! Good job, everything looks on par.
For the trans you can just replace the front and rear seals if the trans is in good working condition.

Rex4Life

Today I pulled the main (Front) harness from my TII donor car.

Whoa!!! What a PITA.

Removed the dash, heater/blower, fuse block, clutch slave and master, oil cooler, condenser, and a bunch of other little stuff. Pulled the whole harness intact.

Now I'm in the process of separating and pulling the wires for the #1 ECU plug and FEM-02 plug from the harness.

setzep

god I'm glad I bought a haltech

Rex4Life

If not for emissions, I would have also. The Haltech is the way for real power upgrades.

Piston Killer

You could make it easy & reliable like I did. Take the turbo II, put an GSL-SE oil pan & front cover on it. Slightly modify the trans mount to make the two work in a first gen. Then have a custom drive shaft made to fit. Finaly, to avoid wiring issues and in an effort to keep it simple, remove every external part having to do with that oil boiling turbo,(sell them) and install a SUPERCHARGER with a 650 cfm Holley carb. You can then use a first gen distributer. A set of 13B headers & your off to the races. I run 100 hp NOS on top of that & beat vetts & porches on road courses & drag strips all the time. A true Piston Killer that will suprize.

Piston Killer

P.S. Fnd a blind Smog check guy. If you tune it well & get a good cat. it will pass a test, but not a visual.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Sounds good, let's see some pics of this set-up of yours.

zaridar

iTrader: (3)

Piston Killer,
What kind of supercharger are you running?
Is it a camden bolt on or is it possibly intercooled?
Im loking at putting a supercharger on my 12a or on a 13b i have yet to get but i dont know which is the best. I kinda want to intercool it that will get a bit more horse with the cold air in there. Yours sounds pretty quick. How do you stack up to the vettes and porches without the NOS?

I dont think i want NOS so ust wonderin?

Joshua

CheddaKing

So maybe you guys can help me out, my project has been moving along fairly well thanks to all this information, but i seem to have hit a bump in the road...What is the deal with the Haltech vs the TII ECU? I see posts saying people are happy they went with a Haltech over a stock ECU but I never see explinations. What makes the Haltech such a better choice? Im not only talking about performance gains, I'm talking about as far as this entire project goes... ANY help would be greatly appreciated! THANKS!

Rex4Life

The Haltech is a fully customizable engine computer for fuel and timing along with a host of other tuning goodies. Here is a link with more info.

http://www.haltech.com.au/index.html

For me the choice was easy.

1) Cost: The Haltech runs about $1000 +/- a few hundred (from what I've seen by others). The TII ECU came with a donor car and everything else for $400. The Haltech almost cost what my SE cost.

2) Emissions: I need to pass a sniffer test in the Texas county I live. Probably could pass if I kept the computer out of sight and that's if it could drive all the emissions crap. Also I don't want to spend the time or money for tuning.

I'm only looking for about 200-220 Hp on a S4 so I should be able to get away with the stock ECU.

Scott

jutny

hey folks, i'll soon be joining the ranks of the Turbo 1st gen, but with an 88 TII motor w/ haltech f9a and downpipe, MSD ignition and some other assorted crap. 12a tranny for now as well as peg-leg rear end .

questions, fuel setup.

the stuff i'm getting comes with a Tank that's been sumped, with what i believe to be 10an outlet and 6an inlet. What kind of fuel pressures do i need for the TII motor, and what pumo/filter/regulator can i get away with, cause $289 for an aeromotive is a lot of dough, especially when you add 135 for the regulator and $80 for the filter.

another thing, should i try to grab a 12at dizzy, for the boost retard, run 0 degrees timing and leave my Direct fire alone, or use the MSD that it comes with and get an MSD BTM (boost timing master) to control the retard?

is there graphical tuning software for the haltech? or is it all old school style (not that i mind, i was just wondering)

LTProject

hey everyone i just put my engine and trans in. I have one small problem the turbo leans on the strut tower and my radiator. Looks like its back to the drawing board.

kuhlrx7

do you have your engine mounting bracket on correctly?
sounds like you may not. I have lots of room every where but at the tps heater hose location.

setzep

Make your own manifold?

LTProject

yah the brackets on correct, its the turbo manifold that was built for a Fc thats giving me the grief. also just like everyone said the T2 trans is about 1" to long so ill have to cut a hole out. Setzep, im not that skilled with the welder. Remember when we talked about how big this turbo is, this is the problem. Im either going to modify the manifold ie: tilt or twist the flange , or buy a little smaller turbo for now.

LTProject

question, what crossmember did you guys modify for your trans. ive got a 91T2 tranny in a 81 chassis. My guess is use the 81 crossmember and make a adapter to the transmission. Let me know ill be attacking it this weekend. thanks mike

setzep

I used a s4 T2 trans so mine was pretty easy to fit up. The s5's take more engineering to make fit because of the way they mount. The s4's mounts sort of like the FB's do while the s5's have more of a cradle mount.
Hopefully someone here has mounted a s5 in their FB so they can show you the way.

LTProject

modified the s5 mount last night and it fits great. i took some pics of it with the new camera but my computer isnt working correctly. Ill try and get it straighten out tonight and post them.

setzep

Have any of you guys made custom sparkplug wires for your car? I have the trailing coils mounted to the inner fender well under where the stock coils were and the leading coils on the strut tower. So now I have to make custom length wires. I spent a long time on summitracing.com and they have about 100 different set of "universal" sparkplug wires but was wondering if any of you have had good luck with any wires you've made.
If so, have the part number handy ?
Thanks