(REFERENCE) The Upgrading a Stock Rx-7 Thread
08-24-03, 08:28 AM
#1
Nikki-Modder Rex-Rodder
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(REFERENCE) The Upgrading a Stock Rx-7 Thread
Hi folks-
This is a thread to list the different things a new Rx-7 owner can do to make his stock car faster.
Please only contribute ONE responce, be short and to the point in your answer, and don't waste thread space by "discussing" (arguing) .
(I.E., don't answer if you don't know what the hell you're talking about.)
It's for the benifit of us all, so let's be as professional and concise as possible in our contributions.
This is a thread to list the different things a new Rx-7 owner can do to make his stock car faster.
Please only contribute ONE responce, be short and to the point in your answer, and don't waste thread space by "discussing" (arguing) .
(I.E., don't answer if you don't know what the hell you're talking about.)
It's for the benifit of us all, so let's be as professional and concise as possible in our contributions.
08-24-03, 10:03 AM
#2
Good idea Sterling!
OK - I'll start with the obvious...
Header / exhaust:
I've yet to find or hear of anything better than the RB set up when considering all aspects; ie - ease of application (bolt on), tone (outstanding), and performance. There may be better performing set up's out there, but when all things are considered, I love what Racing Beat has come up with for the 1st gen. - Tried and True
OK - I'll start with the obvious...
Header / exhaust:
I've yet to find or hear of anything better than the RB set up when considering all aspects; ie - ease of application (bolt on), tone (outstanding), and performance. There may be better performing set up's out there, but when all things are considered, I love what Racing Beat has come up with for the 1st gen. - Tried and True
08-24-03, 01:57 PM
#5
Oil cooler swap if you have the beehive water to oil cooler for 83-85 cars.
Electric fan cools better and the throttle seems to be a little more responsive too
Tokico shocks/struts, eibach springs, poly bushings, stainless steel brake lines, GSL/SE rear end swap if not equipped.
Electric fan cools better and the throttle seems to be a little more responsive too
Tokico shocks/struts, eibach springs, poly bushings, stainless steel brake lines, GSL/SE rear end swap if not equipped.
08-24-03, 02:29 PM
#6
Throttle body mod. (fuel injected cars)
Lowers air intake tempuratures DRASTICALLY (coolant line is removed of intake and re-routed back into block, and improves throttle response, and will maintain a perfect set idle. also a pair of butterflies are removed, more air flow.
Draw back is you lose your mechaincal choke so car will run a tiny but rough in cold weather till car reaches operating tempurature.
Under 10 bucks to do, or possibly free if you have basic things needed for this 1-2 hour job.
Pro will take about 45 minutes to complete and restart the car.
Lowers air intake tempuratures DRASTICALLY (coolant line is removed of intake and re-routed back into block, and improves throttle response, and will maintain a perfect set idle. also a pair of butterflies are removed, more air flow.
Draw back is you lose your mechaincal choke so car will run a tiny but rough in cold weather till car reaches operating tempurature.
Under 10 bucks to do, or possibly free if you have basic things needed for this 1-2 hour job.
Pro will take about 45 minutes to complete and restart the car.
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08-24-03, 08:04 PM
#9
Airflow is my life
Oh Give Timmay a break, he was just messin around. I will add that I got feedback from a SCCA Spec-7 driver that when his airpump belt broke, that he got a noticeable power increase, so maybe the emissions removal has a bit of performance gain. 
08-24-03, 08:38 PM
#11
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sorry it was late at night and i was bored
ok i wanna contribute..
mods- put a 48 IDA weber in... or if u wanna use it as a daily driver... just modify the stock nikki carb.. to open the 4 butterlys together or faster..
this should be as good as the weber and wont use so much fuel...
08-24-03, 11:38 PM
#12
My wife bought me 2 RX-7s
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I was going to post DLIDFIS, but The 7 beat me to it.
Second choice, ditch that AC. Weight reduction and less parasitic losses to the engine.
Second choice, ditch that AC. Weight reduction and less parasitic losses to the engine.
08-25-03, 12:49 PM
#15
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set the timing just so!
mike
mike
08-25-03, 12:55 PM
#16
DLIDFIS with a relay hooked to the battery or starter solenoid.
I'd like to suggest more grounds. Grounding each rotor housing and the alternator housing together with the tranny and battery (like a daisy chain) can help when the engine is old and has some corrosion between the iron and aluminum parts.
Move the battery to a storage bin for better cornering.
Loose the rear sway bar? This won't make it faster, but it'll help cornering (not sure if that's for '84-'85 cars only)
I'd like to suggest more grounds. Grounding each rotor housing and the alternator housing together with the tranny and battery (like a daisy chain) can help when the engine is old and has some corrosion between the iron and aluminum parts.
Move the battery to a storage bin for better cornering.
Loose the rear sway bar? This won't make it faster, but it'll help cornering (not sure if that's for '84-'85 cars only)
08-25-03, 03:44 PM
#17
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Originally posted by JIMMY54
Throttle body mod. (fuel injected cars)
Lowers air intake tempuratures DRASTICALLY (coolant line is removed of intake and re-routed back into block, and improves throttle response, and will maintain a perfect set idle. also a pair of butterflies are removed, more air flow.
Draw back is you lose your mechaincal choke so car will run a tiny but rough in cold weather till car reaches operating tempurature.
Under 10 bucks to do, or possibly free if you have basic things needed for this 1-2 hour job.
Pro will take about 45 minutes to complete and restart the car.
Throttle body mod. (fuel injected cars)
Lowers air intake tempuratures DRASTICALLY (coolant line is removed of intake and re-routed back into block, and improves throttle response, and will maintain a perfect set idle. also a pair of butterflies are removed, more air flow.
Draw back is you lose your mechaincal choke so car will run a tiny but rough in cold weather till car reaches operating tempurature.
Under 10 bucks to do, or possibly free if you have basic things needed for this 1-2 hour job.
Pro will take about 45 minutes to complete and restart the car.
Zachstylez
08-25-03, 04:15 PM
#19
The tb mod....
The easiest way to do this is to remove the either top of the motor. From the runners up.
-remove black big air tube
-Mark all vacuum lines
-remove throttle cable
-electrical plugs
Then the coolant line close to the fire wall.
There are like 5 nuts to losen at the bottom of the intake runners.
and 2 more hidden under the re-egi box seen from the drivers side.
Once out, undo the TB. 4 nuts.
Then remove:
-the machinal choke (where hot coolant runs thru) also has a inline check valve with vacuum lines.
-dash pot
-Unscrew the butter flies, (I've had to drill the screws out) then remove the shaft.
Once that is done you'll need to cover the holes from that shaft on both sides of the TB. I've tapped the holes and put in a bolt on each side and grinded off the excess.
Then put that back together.
Next the coolant line.
You'll need to get a 2 foot coolant line with a 90 degree bend near the end. and hook up the 2 coolant opening together. It'll just just run along side the fuel rail.
After reassembly you'll have to readjust the throttle cable for the perfect idle. and the screw on the RE-EGI box.
Then hook up the cruise control cable (thats the one that circles around on the passenger side).
Wait until I have pictures and a proper write up. There could be things I'm forgetting.
JIMMY
The easiest way to do this is to remove the either top of the motor. From the runners up.
-remove black big air tube
-Mark all vacuum lines
-remove throttle cable
-electrical plugs
Then the coolant line close to the fire wall.
There are like 5 nuts to losen at the bottom of the intake runners.
and 2 more hidden under the re-egi box seen from the drivers side.
Once out, undo the TB. 4 nuts.
Then remove:
-the machinal choke (where hot coolant runs thru) also has a inline check valve with vacuum lines.
-dash pot
-Unscrew the butter flies, (I've had to drill the screws out) then remove the shaft.
Once that is done you'll need to cover the holes from that shaft on both sides of the TB. I've tapped the holes and put in a bolt on each side and grinded off the excess.
Then put that back together.
Next the coolant line.
You'll need to get a 2 foot coolant line with a 90 degree bend near the end. and hook up the 2 coolant opening together. It'll just just run along side the fuel rail.
After reassembly you'll have to readjust the throttle cable for the perfect idle. and the screw on the RE-EGI box.
Then hook up the cruise control cable (thats the one that circles around on the passenger side).
Wait until I have pictures and a proper write up. There could be things I'm forgetting.
JIMMY
08-26-03, 04:05 AM
#24
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Originally posted by JIMMY54
The tb mod....
The easiest way to do this is to remove the either top of the motor. From the runners up.
-remove black big air tube
-Mark all vacuum lines
-remove throttle cable
-electrical plugs
Then the coolant line close to the fire wall.
There are like 5 nuts to losen at the bottom of the intake runners.
and 2 more hidden under the re-egi box seen from the drivers side.
Once out, undo the TB. 4 nuts.
Then remove:
-the machinal choke (where hot coolant runs thru) also has a inline check valve with vacuum lines.
-dash pot
-Unscrew the butter flies, (I've had to drill the screws out) then remove the shaft.
Once that is done you'll need to cover the holes from that shaft on both sides of the TB. I've tapped the holes and put in a bolt on each side and grinded off the excess.
Then put that back together.
Next the coolant line.
You'll need to get a 2 foot coolant line with a 90 degree bend near the end. and hook up the 2 coolant opening together. It'll just just run along side the fuel rail.
After reassembly you'll have to readjust the throttle cable for the perfect idle. and the screw on the RE-EGI box.
Then hook up the cruise control cable (thats the one that circles around on the passenger side).
Wait until I have pictures and a proper write up. There could be things I'm forgetting.
JIMMY
The tb mod....
The easiest way to do this is to remove the either top of the motor. From the runners up.
-remove black big air tube
-Mark all vacuum lines
-remove throttle cable
-electrical plugs
Then the coolant line close to the fire wall.
There are like 5 nuts to losen at the bottom of the intake runners.
and 2 more hidden under the re-egi box seen from the drivers side.
Once out, undo the TB. 4 nuts.
Then remove:
-the machinal choke (where hot coolant runs thru) also has a inline check valve with vacuum lines.
-dash pot
-Unscrew the butter flies, (I've had to drill the screws out) then remove the shaft.
Once that is done you'll need to cover the holes from that shaft on both sides of the TB. I've tapped the holes and put in a bolt on each side and grinded off the excess.
Then put that back together.
Next the coolant line.
You'll need to get a 2 foot coolant line with a 90 degree bend near the end. and hook up the 2 coolant opening together. It'll just just run along side the fuel rail.
After reassembly you'll have to readjust the throttle cable for the perfect idle. and the screw on the RE-EGI box.
Then hook up the cruise control cable (thats the one that circles around on the passenger side).
Wait until I have pictures and a proper write up. There could be things I'm forgetting.
JIMMY
Bad *** at work. Hey thanks a lot man i can't wait till i get the full write up! So that increases throttle response more than anything?
And what is this rear sway bar removal? I can't find one but i am an idiot... and why is it so beneficial?
Zachstylez