Felix Wankel

This is my attempt to do a write up on removing a series 3 dashboard. This is not intended as the be-all-end-all method, this is just the way I figured it out. Since there is no formal write up I could find, and no mention of it in the Haynes manual, I will make my own.

OK, Here we start with a completely intact interior:


On either side, there is a cover plate. Remove each of those and remove the screws holding the lower dash panels to the metal frame.

Driver's side:


Passenger's side:


Once that is completed, you can move on to removing the lower dash panels. I'll start with the driver's side, as it is the most involved. First, remove the steering column cover. It simply unscrews and snaps apart. A twist of the key light, and the cover is free.

Next you need to remove the two screws holding the fuse box up. Take the fuse box cover off, and Look at it from below. In two of the recessed holes will be screws. Remove them and let the fuse panel hang free. Remove the screw holding the lower dash panel next. Remove the set screw on the choke **** (if applicable), and the nut on the choke **** shaft. Now move on to taking the crotch vent cover off, all the remaining screws, and the vent slider ****. Be sure none of the electrical connections are hung. Once this is done, the panel should come outward enough to unplug the mirror switch and dimmer switch. My dimmer switch came apart, but I was able to put it back together with little fuss. This is what you should be left with:




The right side of the driver's side lower panels is easier. Just remove all the screws (be sure to look up under the lip!), pull it out, and unhook the lighter and cruise switch (if applicable).

Right panel connections:



Once you have the lower drivers side disassembled, you should be looking about like this:

Felix Wankel

Now we can move on to the passenger side. Remove the glove box latch screws, and the two that are visble on the side. Remove all the screws on the lower dash panel. There is one that is easy to miss (pictured looking up from console):



Once the lower panel is removed, take the remaining glove box screws out. Pop the glovebox light down, and unplug it and the switch for it. The glove box is now free.

You should be left looking similar to this:



Now for the fun part (not). Removing the gauge cluster. I have modified mine (broken it) to come out faster, so I did not take many pictures of the removal. Basically all you do is remove the screws and wrestle with it. There is a speedo cable, and 4 electrical connections to contend with.




Now we can get to work on the center console. Pull the change tray/window switches (whichever you have) out of the center, they just snap on. Remove the two screws there, and the two inside the console at the back. The console is now free. Pull the shift **** off, and the boot. Remove the heat and blower *****. Remove the nuts behind them, and the two screws at the bottom of the radio trim. Slide it outward, making sure to unplug the light connections on each one. I am leaving the radio removal up to you.

With that done, you can remove the clock, and the two control *****. I opted to leave the hot/cold **** on the car until I had the dash off. The ***** require some finesse to get out of the dash, as the wiring connectors are buried.

The vent controls have a slider on one end. This requires you to stand on your head for the most part. Unclip the wire, slide the small rubber piece off the shaft, and the cable slides off. (Pictured looking up from the floor):



There are a few electrical connectors on the vent controls, one is way over on the blower motor in the passenger side of the dash. Don't unhook the black connector, its not necessary.



The center console is now apart, you should be about this far along:

Felix Wankel

In the above picture, unhook the ground wire at the lower center of the radio opening.

Also, remove the retainers holding the vents to the heater box. These simply pull off with a pair of pliers.



There are two hidden screws that are easy to miss. One on each side. You will have to get creative (I used a screwdriver bit and a 1/4'' ratchet) to remove these, as they are installed backwards.

Driver's side:



Passenger's side:



Remove the defroster vents by prying upward gently on the center part first. Then remove the two screws and pry the vents out. Under those are the top three 10mm bolts.

Driver's:



Center:



Passenger's:



I used a u-joint and some extensions to remove them:

Felix Wankel

Now its on to the lower bolts. There are four on each side, two near the door, and two in the center.

Driver's side:




Passenger's side:




Remove the two 12mm bolts on either side of the steering column, and the steering wheel. (Pictured looking up from floor):



Make a final pass, bending all the wire clips out, and making sure the harness is free of the dash. Unhook this white clip from the dash:

gamble302

hmmm u-joint and extensions or this:
http://www.sears.com/sr/product/summ...id=00941315000

Felix Wankel

At this point, you may want to remove the shifter ****, a- pillar trim, and turn signal assembly for clearance. I chose to leave them on, except for the pillar trim. Be careful of the levers if you choose to do so.

Dash pulled out slightly:



Once you have the dash out to this poing, there is a ground wire on the backside of the radio opening. Use an 8mm to remove it. (Pictured looking up from floor, back towards hatch area):



At this point, you should be able to lift the dash up and out. Once it is out, you are left with this:




Plus a lot of parts to look forward to reinstalling:




There you have it. I did this in about an hour, it could have gone faster without the picture taking and breaks Hopefully I did not leave too much out.

Felix Wankel

I dont have one of those

The pictures I left out are here

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=135483

gamble302

nice post! gonna be lots of fun to put back on i bet. hey when you take off the ignition switch, its got the one piece that attaches to the coloumn with those weird little clips, any idea where i can get new ones for when i install one i got off a parts car on to my good car.

faye x7

haha..I should do that just to pass some time tomorrow. lol

zookeeper

I mean it, really good job. Very neat and detailed. Makes me want to run right out and rip mine out! But... I'll just print this thread and look at yours instead!

Seriously, I really hope I never have to tear my dash out, but I printed this thread (33 printed pages!) and put it in my notebook just in case.

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Very nice write-up Felix!

But the burning question...

Why did you do this?

Felix Wankel

https://www.rx7club.com/forum/showth...hreadid=135470

Directfreak

iTrader: (2)

Ok then. I removed all my Heater stuff. But kept the A/C

Felix Wankel

I'm the opposite, I had/have/will have again heat and no A/C.

I took my evaporator out today too. That thing was as heavy as the whole dash!

zookeeper

And here I thought you did it just for show and tell

Thanks again for documenting it.

Keaponlaffen

holy sh*t.... that's one crazy write-up..... nice job!

Jeff

Pele

iTrader: (28)

Thanks a lot man. I hope that gets archived quick...

My GSL has electronic controls for the vent system. Think that makes it easier?

What kinda steering wheel ya got? Shifter ****? Digital Camera?

Wow, was the Evaporator coil that heavy?!? I wouldn't expect that... I'd expect it to be about as heavy as a condenser, at the most...

Felix Wankel

I'd imagine a GSL/GSL-SE vent control thing would be a bit easier to remove.

Steering wheel is an 88 FC wheel. Shifter and **** is an 89-91 FC. The boot is off a series 4. Digital camera is an HP Photosmart 320.

Yeah, the evaporator was surprisingly massive. I haven't taken it out of the box yet thogh. I may bring it in and weigh it on the bathroom scale (I already have the dash inside).

Felix Wankel

I know the scale isn't accurate, but the dash was 22 lbs and the evaporator was 10.

Pele

iTrader: (28)

Did you have to do anythinh special to add the **** or steering wheel?

Felix Wankel

The steering wheel bolts right on, but the turn signal canceler won't work, as the back of the wheel isn't deep enough.

The S5 **** only fits the S5 shifter. The S4 shifter has the same threads as the first gens. I like the **** because it is weighted.

rx7passion

shall i archive this yet???

Rx7carl

Nice job Felix . Very well written, detailed and logical. WHats with the 10,000rpm tach? WIll the tach really go that far? I know theres no stop pin but.....