Ok, its finally time to change the oil. First time changing oil on the FC, but been changing oil on my other car for a while now.

The drain plug bolt head is like only 4mm tall so its hard to get a decent grip with the socket. It will grip but when I torque it down to turn it, it'll slip off. I guess you can say the bolt head is slightly stripped and torqued down like a mo' fo from the last person who changed it!

Tried an adjustable wrench but still nothing... Any other ways I can take this bolt off?

 

Metrinch or other quality tools
visegrips
screw extractor
channel locks
pipe wrench

 

Are you reaching under, awhile the car Is grounded? Even worse, Is It lowered and grounded? You may not be getting torque on It properly. I had the same problem, with the above examples, and found I couldn't undue the bolt. I'm just guessing your scenario here.

Besure to replace the crush washer when you do get It undone, thus avoiding any future leaks form there. As If our cars aren't prone to leaks already.)

 

i was going to change mine today, but i couldnt get the bolt off. i dont know if it was just because i could only reach under the car with a rachett to do it or if it was just to tight. so anyways i gave up and im going to get it changed by a professional with real tools.

 

You need a normal wrench. Thats it. "Real professionals" I wouldnt trust my car with. Ive seen to much ghetto **** at too many garages. And Ive always heard "its not my car, I dont give a ****".

 

lol you cant change your own oil? i guess its because i do it every day, but this **** is DAMN easy. if it strips when you use a socket or open end, then use some vise grips and torque like a bitch till it comes off. if you still cant get it off, then get your dad or mom or sister or anyone stronger than you. Ive had some hard cases in the 100's of changes ive done, but none a lil ingenuety doesnt solve.

 

oh, well my face was turning red and my veins were poping out trying to use what little leverage i had with one arm under the car and the other pulling on the wheel well to get that bolt off. ive decided its impossible to do without your car being up on somthing. you cant get at it at the right angle. or maybe my arms are short.

 

yes. it is ALWAYS a good idea to jack the car up before doing an oil change. especially on an rx7. theres just more room to work with, making the job alot easier

 

but does it drain right at any angle? plus i wouldnt trust my life to a jack and get under the car.

 

not at extreme angles, and thats why you use jack stands

 

i aint got none jack stands

 

Then you shouldn't be doing oil changes...

 

Jack stands are like 25$ for a pair at walmart.

 

Have the big job sent out.

 

I had that problem before.
I only had a adjustable wrench.
It wan't my first choice cause it can round the bolt.

But I tightened it on the then got a long *** pry bar(I used my old mountain bike handle bars,best damn thing in the world)
and yank like crazy. Don't keep hitting it. Do one constant pull or you might stripp it. Make sure it's on there snug too.

Maybe a hammer real quick to help vibrate it but again be careful.

 

No, not reaching under. I always jack up the car when doing oil changes. Have plenty of room to work under.

The bolt is torqued down pretty hard. I gotta goto a friend's house and see what other tools I can use. If all else fails, I'll have someone at a shop take it out for me and replace it with a newer and easy to remove drain plug.

 

Once you do get the bolt off (or have someone else get it off), I highly recommend replacing it with one of these:
http://www.fumotovalve.com/

You don't ever need to remove it, and it comes with its own gasket, so you never have to buy a crush washer again. Also, if your car is still the stock ride height, you can change your oil on level ground WITHOUT jacking up the car if you have a low-profile drain pan. I have used slightly crushed milk jugs and gallon water jugs as drain pans with this drain valve without jacking up the car. With the valve, you can even re-fill empty quart-sized oil containers if you like, since you can stop the flow at any time with a flick of the switch. The downside is that those who like bashing their knuckles trying to get off the stock plug, or like burning their fingers fishing for the plug and washer in the oil, will no longer be able to abuse themselves.

The RX-7 takes the F106 (you don't need the N-type nipple valve), and it installs with a 19mm open-end wrench. I have used these for over 12 years, and they still work great. Every vehicle I own has one. No, I'm not a dealer; I just really like this product.

Before you ask:
1) No, there isn't a ground clearance problem with the F106.
2) The oil pan has a thick bung, so the long threaded neck of the valve is still below the level of the bottom of the pan. I know, it looks like it sticks up into the pan, but it doesn't.
3) No, the valve can't just pop open because it has a fair amount of resistance to moving, and it locks in place when rotated to the fully closed position.

There is also a similar Fram product sold at generic auto parts stores, but the quality isn't quite as good as the Fumoto valve from what I hear from those who have tried the Fram. However, the Fram is more easily available, and it sells for slightly less.

 

Wow, that product looks nifty! Think I'll get one for my daily beater and maybe my FC (although I don't put a lot of miles on my FC.)

 

I love my Metrinch set .

as for sending it out...i knew a guy who took his car to a shop, i think it was a jiffy lube, and on the way home his drain plug fell out and he fried his engine. that is enough for me to never let someone else change my oil, ever.

oh and as for jackstands, you can probably find them even cheaper than that. its a good investment since its like a one time buy. i used some 2x4 type pieces behind the tires too just for peace of mind.