Megasquirt Removed CAS teeth pics
Removed CAS teeth pics
I removed the two teeth from my CAS today (1 VR circuit ignition, minimal borad mods) and just thought I'd share a few pics. If anyone is timid to do this me a shout, enough to cover shipping and a #2 at Burger King will suffice. (I accept paypal hahaha)

My procedure:
1. remove roll pin from gear.
2. remove gear
3. remove 2 bearing retainer screws in CAS body
4. remove shaft from housing
5. orient and clamp shaft in V-block (one tooth facing straight up)
6. 1/8 end mill and let the chips fly
7. assembly is reverse of of dissassembly
My procedure:
1. remove roll pin from gear.
2. remove gear
3. remove 2 bearing retainer screws in CAS body
4. remove shaft from housing
5. orient and clamp shaft in V-block (one tooth facing straight up)
6. 1/8 end mill and let the chips fly
7. assembly is reverse of of dissassembly
Last edited by RXBeetle; Feb 19, 2006 at 09:12 PM.
If anyone is thinking of doing this, take rxbeetle up on this. I was one of the first to experiment with the 12-1 concept and it is difficult to take these teeth off by Dremel as the teeth are very fine, the wheel is soft metal and it's real easy to dig a chunk out of an adjoining tooth. Thanks rxbeetle!
-Mike
-Mike
The ecu counts teeth on the 24-tooth wheel using a VR sensor to determine eccentric shaft angle. The second 2-tooth wheel with its own VR sensor is used as a TDC reference to reset that counter. As the stock V3.0 MS has a built-in conditioning circuit for only one VR sensor, if the stock CAS is used then another conditioning circuit must be built. This extra circuit can be avoided by modifying the CAS as shown.
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Originally Posted by toplessFC3Sman
Does it matter which teeth get removed? One on either side, yes, but how do you know which will be timed correctly with the e-shaft?
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