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Originally Posted by arkady151
It seemed to have some rust around the fenders but that didnt worry me that much until I went to pull the ecu and found this...
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That doesn't look too bad. Some wire brush work will expose any real problems. Expect a few pinholes, but those can be sealed with the appropriate coating (ie. POR-15).
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To the right of the drivers seat
Behind the drivers seat
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Common areas for rust to form since water pools behind the seat. Does the top leak?
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Along the drivers door side, probably the worst part since it goes to the floor and also through the side and under it
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That's bad. It's a complicated area to repair since the sill, floor, pinch weld and door jam all connect. The view from the underside makes it look like the inner part of the sill is OK, which makes things easier.
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My plan is to cut out the bad portions and weld in new ones for the stuff thats through the floor.
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Is this your first rust repair? If so, practice on a FLAT area that won't be seen. Areas like the floor or storage bins. You're going to want to use a 0.023 wire, with the wire speed turned up and the voltage/current turned down. If using flux core, you're stuck with 0.030" as the smallest. It's more frustrating, but will get the job done. Either way, make a patch that fits PERFECTLY to lesson the chance of burning through. It's easiest to cut the rust hole into some kind of normal shape (square, rectangle) and make a panel to match. Put a tack weld in every few inches, then fill in between them. Grind flat, reweld, then grind again. Don't grind into the good metal since you don't want to make it any thinner. Weld through primers are great for this since welds and new metal will aggressivly rust in a short time unless protected.
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Question 1 , What should be the thickness of the metal , which I will be weldding?
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Use something slightly thicker then the replacement. I generally use 2MM thick for these kinds of repairs.
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I want to treat the surface rust with muriatic acid as recommend by a few members on here. I know I have to make sure I rinse , rinse and rinse again and use plenty of protection when working with it but my second question is should I mix the acid with water to dilute(sp?) it a bit or use it in its full concentrated capacity?
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No idea. I don't use muriatric acid for this. I use a product from RestoMotive (the company that makes POR-15) called "Metal Ready". It's basically phosphoric acid with a zinc ion, used full strength. Has the same effect as muriatic acid.
The acid just stops rust, it will not prevent it. To prevent it, you need to deny the metal any moisture. A coating like POR-15 is what you need (I'm big on POR-15, can you tell?
).
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So far does this sound good , I havent purchased the Eastwood kit yet so is there anything better that I should use?
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I'm partial to POR-15. It's very expensive, a pain to work with and make a huge mess. But it
just plain works.
Good info here:
http://www.rx7club.com/forum/showthread.php?t=468413
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What are they for? I personally dont see a purpose in them so what would stop me from welding those areas shut? If I should keep them what glue or sealant should I use to glue the metal ones back in? Where can I buy new rubber body plugs? Does the dealership still sell them? Can I buy them somewhere else and not get bend over?
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Many of the rubber plugs are in place so that the car can be rust proofed via oil spray. The ones that just go through the floor don't seem to serve any purpose, so I don't see any major harm in welding them up.
If you just want to glue them back shut, then any auto parts store should have seam sealer which you can use. They will also sell replacement rubber plugs.
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