Telluride

iTrader: (1)

So, doing a couple of up grades and noticed this hose, right at the turbo was cracked. I went to the auto parts house and they only had a coolant hose....I passed.....I figured it might melt due to the heat and I would hate for something to take a ***** whilst driving, then have to take it apart again.... I don't know the technical name of the hose and makes searching for it kinda complicated....where can I get one from?

Telluride

iTrader: (1)

Wow I am a space cadet.....forgot pictures.....her yah go.

lduley

iTrader: (1)

I don't know much about turbos, but i don't see why coolant hose wouldn't work for that. If my limited sense of turbos is correct thats the BOV, so that should be cooler air going through that anyways into the engine.

That and coolant hose is usually good up to about 300°f liquid heat, being thats air, it should hold up

TomU

iTrader: (11)

Malloy Mazda, ask for Ray (it's stickied on the 3rd gen forum site)

Part No is N3A113765.

On-line, Jim Ellis Mazda Parts (Mazda Parts - Authentic OEM Mazda Parts direct from Jim Ellis Mazda) is a good source for ID'ing parts (you can also source them there, but Ray is usually cheaper and knows FDs inside and out)

Mazda Parts - Authentic OEM Mazda Parts direct from Jim Ellis Mazda

Telluride

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info! I figured it was the BOV...this is my first rotary and things are a bit different than 1jz's 2jzs 7m's that I'm used to working on. I've had the heater hoses melt on some of my other cars in the past. And I know these run hotter due to the precat. Granted, I am upgrading the exhaust to the Bönez downpipe and mid pipe with converter, 3 inch cat back. Might work. I guess I'll give it a shot? If it doesn't I'll order the factory part.

TomU

iTrader: (11)

Wrap the downpipe to keep the heat in the pipe. Also go easy on increasing airflow through the engine on a stock ECU. If you lean it out too much, you risk detonation. Rule of thumb is you're ok on the stock ECU with 3 mods, but not sure there's any science behind that

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

That part number will likely be just for the elbow from the Charge Relief Valve (CRV) to 'Y' Pipe. The others are probably harder than a *****'s heart too. If that's the case, I'd ask Ray for the set including the straight sections.
And yes, remove that pre-cat. They have been know to collapse and plug the stock cat...and you risk engine damage with that. One of the few two-for-one deals on this car is the installation of a good downpipe. Both a reliability and performance mod. Bonez is a good choice. Thick flanges and should have the mounting ear for the bracket securing it to the transmission. Figure at least the DP to Manifold gasket...you won't want to R & R it a second time for a leak. If you use JUST the header wrap I would also use this stuff before and after wrapping: http://www.designengineering.com/cat...licone-coating

Telluride

iTrader: (1)

I see. Everything is staying stock as possible. Just some upgrades that the Ecu should get able to handle. New motor 20,000 miles ago when owned by previous owner. They replaced everything, except the pre-cat, normal cat, and some hoses. I feared this could be an issue. So....I'm replacing the exhaust , adding a turbo timer, a 185° fan switch and giving it a tune up(platinum plugs, wires, o2).
The previous owner also had installed CSF racing radiator and air separation tank.
Nothing crazy in the works....nor do I think they are major other than the exhaust.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

*Save the money for a turbo-timer. You have water cooled turbos. Idling for an extended period will only make temps go up. Just stay out of boost for a minute or so before shut down. Search in the 3rd Gen. Section for more info and opinions.
*They certainly won't hurt anything, but platinum plugs, in my experience, didn't last any longer than standard plugs. Stay with NGK in stock heat ranges. Nothing better IMO. Same with OEM plug wires. I suggest doing them one at a time though, so you don't cross things up. And use some anti-seize.
*Not sure about the 185 F. fan switch you're speaking of. There is the Plug n Play S5 FC fan thermoswitch that lowers low speed fan activation to 95 C. (203 F.) instead of the stock 108 C. (225 F.) Very worthwhile.

Telluride

iTrader: (1)

I got the NGK oem heat range platinum plugs. 9's trailing, 7's leading. with a little anti seize on em. NGK plug wires(burped with coat hanger). Found a excellent guide/diagram FD3s.net. I also did them one at a time, to be sure.

I already bought the timer. I just want a 30 second - 1 min cool down with hood open. So I can go about my business. I'm at a higher altitude(9000 ft) and things go under more strain when climbing a couple thousand feet, so I like a little hood propped open cool down session in the noticeably cooler garage.

As for the fan switch.
185-degree Fan Switch RX7

I thought about the 180° thermostat, but I read that optimum cooling performance is above 180°. If below 180°, it thinks it is still warming up and is in closed loop? Could be wrong.

Telluride

iTrader: (1)

Is in Open loop*

TomU

iTrader: (11)

Just FYI, the DEI silicone spray is not req'd for their titanium wrap which is why most folks seem to prefere it

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

^But on a mild steel dp it keeps moisture from contacting it underneath. If not it will pit. And IMO it still helps to have it on the outside for additional insulation, and whenever working nearby.
Actually if the OP has the budget and while the DP out of the car before installation, a heat-coating would be the way to go.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

IMO, that fan switch is more for a highly modded and/or tracked car. Likewise that t-stat. Not for a near-stock street car for the reason you yourself mentioned. And at 185 F. the fans will, tend run almost constantly regardless of ambient since the stock t-stat doesn't even open until ~ 185 F. and isn't full open until ~ 200 F. Probably too late, but IMO that S5 thermoswtich would have been more appropriate, it's no more expensive...possibly cheaper. And completely plug and play. Your's appears to require cutting the factory harness wire and adding a spade connector.
It's not a "cool down". Idling will only make temperatures climb. Stay off boost for minute or two before stopping, shut the car off and open the hood.
Coincidentally here's a recent related thread in the 3rd Gen. section.....https://www.rx7club.com/3rd-generati...stion-1068656/
BTW, if you don't already have one, get an aftermarket temp gauge ASAP. DO NOT rely on the stock gauge. It's not linear and worthless. Worse than worthless.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

edit

Telluride

iTrader: (1)

Thanks for the info! I have not installed the fan switch. I initially thought the temp rating was low, but it popped up whilst searching. I can always return it.
I'll look into the other switch.

I have not updated the temp gauge just yet, as the stock one looks....stock. I know, I know, I need it. But I hate gaudy aftermarket gauges.....this is something I will have to figure out. The gauge situation is similar to the land rovers I've owned....they stay in middle until it over heats. I carry a infrared gun with me, by habit, to check temps before I leave and when I arrive.

I've read a lot of people saying Yes and No to the cool down time. Has anyone actually tested(with a heat gun) which method is faster and more effective? I think I should do a test and show my results.

TomU

iTrader: (11)

Function over form my man. While ignorance is bliss, it's all too easy to cook these engines (i know). If you don't track it, you probably don't need to go gauge happy, but you really need a temp gauge and a boost gauge (over boosting leads to detonation).

Telluride

iTrader: (1)

I'm looking into it. I will have both, just got to find a good location to put them and they will look close to stock as possible. I'm picky..... The car is also down till I finish the exhaust.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

Hey, your preaching to the choir. I'm a minimalist when it comes to gauges too. I have a temp and boost gauge...that's it. And since I moved to a PFC a few years ago and can monitor temps with the commander, I've thought about removing that gauge. I've kept it because (a) I'm old..school and an old fashion analogue gauge is somehow reassuring, and (b) both gauges are Defi 'D' Series gauges (now discontinued) that match the stock gauges almost perfectly.
I like messing with electronics as much as Bin Laden liked ham sandwiches, but if you're skilled this might be of interest...
http://www.geocities.ws/laracers_vr_r1/Instructions.pdf

Also, apologies if I'm coming off 'pushy' on these issues. I definitely encourage you to search in the 3rd Gen. section, particularly in the FAQ sticky. And I'll shut up with unsolicited opinions from here on.

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Sgtblue is right in regard to the fan switch. It is the THERMOSTAT that regulates the coolant temperature, not the fan switch. To have the cooling system work as efficiently as possible, the thermostat and fan switch need to work together. This is an excellent article that explains the whole cooling system far better than I could:
The Myth Of The Electric Fan

If your harness is in good shape, get a S5 fan thermoswitch. If your harness is ailing, get one for a 1974 Subaru GL. It kicks on at 203 degrees compared to the S5 being 207 and uses a common bullet connector while threading into the housing just like stock. If you go this route, be sure to leave a couple inches of wire on the stock thermoswitch connector so you can return to stock if need be.

As for the CRV/BOV hose bend, just go get a 3/4" diameter silicone 90 degree elbow. Life is far too short to be spent replacing brittle baked rubber time and time again when you can fix it permanently for under $15 via Ebay.

With regard to an aftermarket coolant temperature gauge, I'm split on this but I am a big believer in the philosophy of "Make it work, then make it pretty". A proper gauge, when implemented correctly, adds vital information while not detracting in either form or function. My boost and wideband gauges reflect this in that they are mounted on the driver's side window demister opening in the dash. The demister works like stock, thanks to the louvers cut into the mounting plate, while the gauges add vital information in a clean, intelligent manner.

I'd suggest taking a look through the 3rd gen section for methods to implement a gauge to meet your aesthetics. IIRC, there are a couple of guys that retrofitted said gauge into the stock cluster

TomU

iTrader: (11)

Stock is ~$15 and it fits perfectly...

As for gauge mounts, popular choices are steering mount, center speaker, A-pillar, or space under the stereo deck. The PFC Commander is probably the least intrusive - and you get the benefits of an upgraded ECU

Akagis_white_comet

iTrader: (4)

Don't get me wrong, I'm all for using the correct parts in the correct location. And I got Ray Crowe on speed dial too

But given what we've learned since the FD was introduced in regard to hoses, it makes no sense at all to keep a known material weakness when a part made of a more suitable material is readily available at a similar price. Anyone who has redone their FD's vacuum lines knows this. If in doubt, just ask Dale Clark

Just for the record, my 20B-REW still has the stock rubber hose sections for the BOV and CRV here as they were in fine shape. But when they go south, both will be replaced with silicone on the principle of using the correct material for the conditions.

Telluride

iTrader: (1)

Don't me wrong. I am going to get a temp and boost gauge, as I am a fan of both. But this is a clean car and I want it to be done right. As for the gauge pod, I am diggin the flyrx7 dual speaker pod(and similar). That thing looks right. They seem to be hard to find used, but I emailed him to see if he is still making them. As for the gauges to go inside the pod, I'm looking at the different styles. I want electronic metering(vs mechanical)....aka not having to run vacuum line, etc. only wires.

My dad was an electrician and car wiring is actually my speciality.

This is a cool write-up for the temp gauge. Saved!

As for being pushy, it is for a good cause.
You should meet the MKIII supra old timers....they are grumpy and snappy....but full of knowledge, if the person with the issue will sift through their crap..... lol



I ordered the stock part.

I found a temporary high temp silicon hose from one of my mkiii supra builds a while back.

As for the Ecu, I am not ready to spend that money, just yet. Not to mention, you would have to get it tuned? I am 7 hours, 1 way, to denver-pheonix-salt lake....with no truck/trailer to haul it to a dyno. And money to get it tuned. One day, I guess.

Sgtblue

iTrader: (16)

I like the center speaker pod too. Especially since you really don't sacrifice much in the way of audio quality by removing it. BUT, I autocrossed at the time (hope to get back into it soon) and not all that tall (5'8"). OK, have it your way...I'm short. Anyway, I found the pod messed with my forward vision a little too much for my liking. Just throwing that out for consideration.
If you haven't already, search here on the forum for feedback on those pods. IIRC, some had problems with dash heat and guys were complaining that they distorted etc. Can't remember which ones though.
FWIW......


BTW Telluride, was out your way a couple years ago with my car for a week of mountain driving based out of my brother's home in Greeley. Probably the most fun I've ever had with the car outside of autocross. Lol...started with a new set of tires...they were half gone at the end of the week.

TomU

iTrader: (11)

Tri-Point. Believe they are no longer made, probably due to the QC issues. ATI made one, but don't think it's being made either