ItsJBohmzB

I don't know about the o-rings in the lower manifold but if they weren't installed properly, wouldn't I have noticed this issue a lot sooner? As for the top iron coolant passage, I know that isn't leaking because I immediately popped the hood and could see no visible coolant anywhere near the motor. I am leaning toward heater core because I have been smelling coolant in the cab for some time now and have had no visible coolant leaks (besides the thermostat) which makes me think that it could only be the heater core.
I will have to look into this o-ring thing but I do somewhat remember the intake gasket having a rubber o-ring attached to it? I'm not sure anymore....

MjhRotor

iTrader: (1)

Not familiar enough with the NA to know off hand if it had them or not. Things in the back like that small hose on the iron like to leak around behind the manifold and down near the bell housing.

I would have never noticed mine until it got bad if I didn't have it on the lift frequently.

ItsJBohmzB

Well I decided to bypass the heater core for now and that solved my leak so I know it is heater core related. What I did was loop the system instead of capping it. Basically I just took the rear iron coolant line and looped it to the metal line that connects to the radiator. This was the easiest way and the way that made the most sense. I thought about capping but wouldn't you receive less flow to the rear rotor/less flow in general? I went with the loop to keep coolant flowing the best.

So I have another water pump housing on its way and my question is.... Where should I mount this coolant temp sensor for my aftermarket gauge? I already have the fan switch on top of the thermostat neck and thought about moving it lower and then putting the temp sensor where the fan switch is.

I know this forum has plenty of info on the topic but I'm just looking for opinions.

unek87

Na's don't flow coolant through the lower like the turbos . It blocked. I'm running a s4 6 port keg with s4 jdm t2 manifolds port match . Only gasket I need it the paper . No orings .

ItsJBohmzB

Thank you for clearing that up. How was port matching the TII manifolds? I was thinking about doing the same thing.

unek87

Matching from 4 to 6 port wasn't really that bad . Just gotta fill in the voids with some liquid metal of your choices and trace out the 6port gasket to the manifold . There's some material that can get removed a lot in some runners . But some it's thin in areas . During my rebuild while I was porting the irons I knifed edged as they say the ports so entering the keg it was smoother . I think I may have pics still up in my build thread below .

ItsJBohmzB

I will have to check it out.

ItsJBohmzB

I'm back!!!

Anyone have a battery tray for an FC that they aren't using anymore?
I am in the market for one because mine was destroyed during the teardown and I have been going with a makeshift one that isn't doing too well.

So if anyone who reads this has one that they would like to part ways with send me a message.

Thank you!

ItsJBohmzB

So I started ordering more parts for the car this weekend hoping to get her running good.
I picked up a main pulley and hub to get rid of this underdrive pulley I have right now that isn't working out.
I also noticed a decent sweat working its way off of the oil pan gasket so decided to redo that. I picked up two gaskets from eBay along with an LRB Speed oil pan baffle. I have noticed a lot of froth and hopefully this will help that.
Also the new/used water pump housing arrived and I will be getting that ready for paint. First I have to drill and tap for the coolant temp sensor then clean it up and paint it.
Battery tray should arrive today which is nice because I have been driving around with a makeshift tray that isn't working very well.

Now I know I have asked this question multiple times but does anyone know how to wire in the 2nd version of the SAFCII? I would really like to gain some control over my fuel as I am going pretty lean on the higher RPMs. I have searched for information and could not find much, the only info I have is from Apexi and it is pretty broad. I have had this fuel controller for a couple of months now and it is just collecting dust. If I don't get any information on it I might end up selling it and waiting for a complete standalone to come my way.

Also the car is no longer white... The plasti dip wasn't bad but the matte white collected a lot of road debris and I did not like that. The plan now is to pick a 3M colored vinyl and wrap the car.

unek87

Sometimes I wish I didn't spray my whole fc in bed liner , just cause of the choices in wrap colors now . But hey never have to worry about paint swirls or wrap peeling or bubbling up lol
Looking good man .looking forward to seeing the motor done

ItsJBohmzB

Back again with another issue...

This time she is leaking oil from the main pulley and I replaced the main seal when I did the rebuild. I'm hoping it is only the main seal or the copper washer. But knowing my luck it will be something else. I already purchased a oil pan baffle and new gaskets for the oil pan this week so I could drop the pan this weekend. Now it looks like that project is on the back burner until I gather all of the parts to do the main seal or whatever the issue is behind the pulley.

So what I will be doing now is the oil pan baffle, the front main seal, thermal pellet spring and copper washer for main pulley, installing the newish water pump housing with coolant sensor installed and possibly more.

The oil leak at the main pulley isn't bad yet but I have heard stories of people having oil sprayed all over the engine bay. Right now I is just a small leak that appears to be coming from the main seal.

Rhonda has been nothing but issues since the day I got her, but I will continue to give her the love she deserves.

MjhRotor

iTrader: (1)

Just be sure if you remove the front hub you do it properly. Otherwise the Torrington bearings can drop. Then when you retorque everything it will game over your motor.

ItsJBohmzB

No worries, I have replaced the hub multiple times now going from underdrive to OEM. Just out of curiosity, what would happen if you drove the car after the Torrington Bearing dropped? Would this be noticeable right away, or would it take some time to notice?
Not that I have dropped mine but I have always been curious.

ItsJBohmzB

So it's time to put the car away for awhile (basically take her off the road) so I can start tuning her up and adding more go fast goodies. I will be picking up a daily driver sometime within the next couple of weeks so I can finally give this car the attention it deserves.

I am trading all of my wheels (6 in total) for 4 stock sized wheels and an S4 LSD which I have been trying to pick up for some time now. Once the car is out of commission I will start wiring in the fuel controller, gauges, fix the oil leak at the main seal area, possibly do some intake work along with look into the MegaSquirt route, install the new LSD and start looking for real wheels lol. The car will be getting body work done in the near future so I can start to wrap the car as well. Once I am not daily driving her anymore I can start to build her to what I have wanted all along. Overall progress is coming and I think this is the right step. I will be posting as much as possible about every change I make with the car and you should see updates weekly if you follow my build.

Trying to get this little 1.3L streetported N/A motor into the infamous 200WHP range for track use.

Johnny Kuro

i would assume you might hear the e-shaft lobes hitting the center iron? since the endplay would be off. just an educated guess...

ItsJBohmzB

Well she is for sale now, if anyone needs anything just let me know. Life has taken a turn I was not prepared for and I am forced to sell her or part her out.

Any questions just ask.

Thank you.

SavannaRail

Hello,

I am new to this forum and the new owner of this RX7 13B Engine in this thread. The engine turned over by hand without noise and compression sounded consistent.

I pulled the front cover off and found the torrington bearing had slipped out of position and had been tightened and the engine ran in that condition. The endplay seemed to be tight before pulling the cover off but I did not measure it (I did not know the issue yet). The engine was possibly at 0.000" endplay the way the crushing stackup ended up. The thrust bearing was crushed and had flat spots on the rollers. The precision spacer is garbage due to the bearing had ate into the edge of one end as the bearing was partially under the spacer.

I replaced both thrust bearings with their flat mating parts and all other parts between both bearings, including the precision spacer. I reinstalled the front cover and the endplay is correct.

Wondering if anyone has run an engine with the bearing crushed like this was or knows what happens (I saw the previous post and was looking for more input) and if there is any way I can check for critical damage that would tell me not to try to start this engine after my repairs ? Or if I should just try it.

Thank you

MjhRotor

iTrader: (1)

Being ran for any length of time like that likely resulted in metal in the oiling system and nothing good after that.

SavannaRail

Hmmmmm. Metal is metal but just wondering where would the metal come from - What parts would be wearing against each other ? E-shaft ? Bearings ? Oil Rings ? Apex Seals ? The oil pump gears were in great shape and the oil pump shaft was tight in its bore.

MjhRotor

iTrader: (1)

The metal would have come from the destroyed Torrington bearings and the associated parts they were smashed against.

It's entirely possible that whatever metal did get into the oil system was caught by the filter before getting lodged in things like rotor bearings or stationary gear bearings but it's a gamble without being able to check thoroughly.

SavannaRail

OK From what I have learned so far, I have to agree. I have decided to try it and if it fails, I will rebuild it.

It will be a month or so before I try it but I will update this thread as events occur.

Thank you for your feedback.

Ontafc3s

still go to pavilion car meet?