Surgicalposition

I just got my Rx-7 from the mechanic and there seems to be a couple of problems w/ it. First of all, the car doesn't idle correctly...When I put it into 1st gear, w/ the cluth depressed completely, it sometimes stalls. This is especially true after I run it kind of hard and have to stop at a stoplight. Additionally, the engine seems to shudder sometimes. The only mods that are on it (that came w/ the car when I bought it) are a downpipe and a racing beat cat back exhaust. Also, and I don't know if this is a problem w/ all Rx7's, but the car seems to want to shift from 2nd to 5th all the time. I have driven manual cars before, and this is the first time I have come across this oddity. Do I just have to get used to it, change the shift ****, etc? One more thing, I have a Wolf 3d engine management system that IS NOT installed on the car. Should I wait until I modify the car some more before I install the ECU...or just install it now? If I do install it now, what should the settings be for boost, air/fuel ratio, etc...with basically a completely stock setup? Also, what are the boost settings for the stock, twin-turbo setup?

I know these are a lot of questions....Please do not get mad, whoever is reading this....Your help is greatly appreciated...By the way, I am in the LA area, so any recommended mechanics would be of enormous value...Thanks

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

First, Welcome to the never ending world of the Rx7! Next, You should first go get a boost gauge and install it into the car. This will help tell you a few things.( boost,of course,...vaccum at idle,Important,needs to be steady.., Is the A/C on when this happens? The shuddering & stalling could be a number of things ranging from engine mounts being worn out to more extreme repairs to the engine. As alot will say the car was being sold for a reason. This little gauge will help you determine some basic info. Next you should have a basic service performed on the car,( spark plugs, wires, Oil & oil filter, Trans oil, Diff. oil, Check all the couplers for air leaks.) On cars the age of ours, alot of the vaccum hoses under the Intake manifold can be cracked and leak vaccum. Thus affecting idle. Hope some of this rambling leads you in the right direction. As far as the wolf ECU...I have never heard of it for the FD. Anybody else? PM me if you like. Aloha, Dave

themcneal

iTrader: (1)

Surgical,

I am in LA also, and with regards to LA area rotary shops, I will list them, and my experience with them (noting that people have had various good & bad experiences with shops):

1) Tripoint - In San Fernando Valley - I have only purchased some parts from them, haven't had them work on my car, but I have heard that they are a bit more expensive that some others

2) Rotary Reliability & Racing - In Santa Ana - I have had them work on my car and was pleased at the service and the turnaround time

3) Mazdatrix - In Signal Hill (Long Beach) - Have only purchased parts from them, but I know people who have gotten work done on their car from them and were pleased. Also, when I had inquired to get some work done from them, I had to schedule an appointment a week or two in advance (I am sure this is based on if they have a backlog of work or not)

4) Rotary Power - In Gardena - I had my car worked on once and was happy with the service.

I know there are also some other rotary shops in the LA area, these are just probably the largest ones, and the ones I can think of off the top of my head.

With regards to the stock boost pattern, it should be 10-8-10 (psi) - search the forum and it can give you more details regarding the transition points for the changes from 10 to 8 and back to 10.

With regards to modifications and the necessity for an ECU, *typically* you can do 2 modifications (such as intake, catback or downpipe) and be safe (but every car is different).

Hope this helps some. Also use the "search" feature on the forum and you are bound to find some other threads with answers to you same questions.

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

And as for the Tranny. Forgot about this question. It is pretty normal to miss third when you first get the FD. Practice will help. Does it grind in any of the gears when shifted normally? A short shifter will help make it a tighter feel. Carefull though ..too many miss shifts will get you a bent shift fork and synchro, and fifht/reverse slider, etc..)

VTAOE

Okay one problem at a time here.

I have typically noticed that idle problems are caused by one of two things:

A. Your idle problem could be caused by the dashpot near the upper intake manifold (UIM) being bad. Here is some info on that:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...hreadid=180123

B. The clutch switch could be going bad. Here is a little bit of info on that:

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=Clutch+Switch

I would not suggest just disconnecting it though. By doing that you are just ignoring the problem, but not really fixing it. Both of these "switches" consist of a small white piece of plastic that sticks out and can be pushed up and down as either a sensor or damper depending on the switch and your point of view.

Here is someone else with a similar problem.

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.p...=Clutch+Switch

Your sign up date on your signature shows that you are pretty new. So I thought I would help you out. For future reference you might want to check out the search button near the top of each page.

If I were you I would get your car runnning smooth and operating correctly before you do any modifications. Doing modifications while the car isn't runnning right may make things a lot worse rather than helping anything. Good luck and welcome to the world of Rx-7's!!

- Cody

Surgicalposition

I really appreciate everyone's help...The information all of you possess is amazing...I had no idea that this crazy FD was so tempermental...But, in regards to normal shifting, sometimes the gears do grind when I am running the shifter through the gates, with the clutch COMPLETELY depressed...I wonder what causes that?

Thank you for all the help with the mechanic shops and idle problems. I am going to check the dashpot tomorrow and as for the next mods I am getting on my FD... Boost Gauge and silicon vacuum hoses...

Am I getting the right things for the initial stage I am in??

BigIslandSevens

iTrader: (4)

pretty much. Put the boost gauge in first and see what #'s you get, then procede to do the hose job. You may want to just replace all the check valves(4 plastic ones) at this time.(Just cause they are old) Good luck, Keep us posted

mad_7tist

check the motor mounts. especially if the shifter vibrates alot at idle in neutral. but broke mounts or loose bolts will cause some shifting issues

welcome

DCrosby

A lot of parts of the Upper Intake Manifold controll idle, and how it idles when it's at X temp... I'd say pick a shop that's close, and introduce yourself, speak to the owner, and tell him you just purchased the car, and are looking to build a "Stable" platform and aren't looking for miracle HP numbers, then suggest a vaccum hose job, because you heard that might fix the idle, problem, a good mechanic will ask you more about your problem, and will want to diagnose it himself, if they just say sure ! that'll be $500, then you might be at the wrong place