64mgb

iTrader: (1)

OK...I've done a lot of searching and a lot of reading (and yes, I read the MazSpeed article) and I have an idea what needs to be done, but why can't I find ANY pictures of this procedure? It's so much easier to do these things the first time when there are pictures to follow. Does anyone know where there are pictures of the steering box adjustment procedure? If not, I'll take a bunch as I stumble my way through it.

Rich

jjlrx7

i need the same adjustment too. never did figure out exactly how and with no pics it isn an easy procedure.sorry

trochoid

iTrader: (6)

85 FSM, Sec 10A, pp. 6-9, should give you enough diagrams to tackle this.

Whanrow

Really, its easy, even without pictures. there's only 6 things that move.
1. the locking ring on the column where it enters the box
2. the shaft where it enters the box
3. the freeplay adjuster and 4.locking nut
5. the preload adjuster and 6. the locking ring.

Here's abreviated instructions that may make it easier to understand.
Note: I cheated and didn't disconnect my pitman arm, so this is my version.
1. adjust the column where it enters the box until there is a tiny bit of resistance.
2. loosen freeplay locknut and back off the adjustment a little
3. loosen preload locking ring with a huge socket or cold chisel
4. put a punch in one of the holes in the preload adjuster
5. tighten the preload by tapping the punch until there is a little resistance
6. wiggle steering wheel back and forth while tightening freeplay with screwdriver until there is no more.
7. tighten all locking rings/bolts

This worked perfect for me - from an inch play to 0. Only negative was I had to tighten the preload so much to get ALL the play out that the wheel doesn't come back completely to centre by itself. This will wear out the steering gear faster, but I wanted "0" play.

Oh, forgot, use vice grips to pull the stupid round plug off the freeplay adjuster.

Kentetsu

Sorry I can't offer any pictures, but check my posting in this https://www.rx7club.com//showthread....grind+steering thread for some fairly clear instructions on what worked for me. There are only two adjustments made and it worked like a charm. Hope this helps.

nickj

I did this just to try it out, turned the adjuster only about 1/8th turn and got some improvement, but haven't gone back to try any more.

My biggest concerns are:

1) Seems to be some confusion over whether to turn the adjuster clockwise or counter-clockwise--not like it's either one or the other, but that it's different for each car. On mine, I turned it clockwise, which seems like the logical way to go.

2) My mechanic used to adjust the box on my '81 all the time, and it never seemed to make a lot of difference.

3) I've heard you can over-adjust, which makes the box wear out even faster.

jayroc

I tried to do this twice now and the socket I had didnt fit right.. you really need to grind it down flat.
I think I am going to figure out how to mount a sr5 toyota rear steer rack in there... might be easier. lol

Whanrow

That's exactly what I had to do in order to have virtually no play whatsoever. Power steering with a slight amount of play is tolerable, manual steering isn't, as the car pulls sideways really hard and quick. It will follow any kind of groove or warp in the pavement - that's why I insisted on zero play, even if it wears the box out faster in the long run.

Kentetsu

If you don't adjust it enough, then obviously it will still have some play in it. But, if you tighten it too much then you will run into Whanrow's problem (won't return to center). When I did this, I got lucky and nailed it on the first try. However, you will most likely have to try it a few times to get it right. Adjusting it so tight that it won't return to center is not a good thing, and will destroy your steering box in short order. Whanrow, you might want to back it off just a bit (you should be able to do this without sacrificing the "no play" feeling).

Kentetsu

I will check the size of the socket that I used when I get home. I ground the bevel off of mine to ensure good contact with the large nut. That nut is so thin, that if you don't grind the socket down you stand a good chance of stripping it. The socket that I used was a very tight fit. I actually hammered it onto the nut (which caused no damage to the nut) and I think that was a good thing because it takes a lot of force to break it free. I'll post back when I have that socket size.

REVHED

That's why it helps to use a dial indicator on the pittman arm. Turn the adjustment one way first then measure whether the free play increased or decreased.

64mgb

iTrader: (1)

According to the MazSpeed article it's 40mm, or 1 9/16". I'm going to have to order one. I couldn't find one anywhere in town...not even at Sears.

Rich

Whanrow

I played with that damn thing for about 4 hrs straight, and was never able to get a setting where I had no play without the preload being over tight. I may try again in the spring, but I'm not playing with it out in tha barn at -20C! I know one thing - it would be a lot easier to do if I had 4 ft long arms so I could wiggle the steering wheel and keep the other hand on the pitman arm!

As far as the socket goes, I just used a blunt cold chisel on the side of the nut. It worked perfectly, loosened after only a couple of hits, and barely left a mark on the nut.

Kentetsu

Okay, the size socket I used was indeed a 1-9/16"

capt murph

I used a 1 5/8" socket BUT it was a 6 point socket. This worked very well and might be better than a 1 9/16" 12 point socket since it is less likely to slip. No need to grind the bevel off the socket either.