Wolf 3D Wiring harness tips, how to make a rotary proof harness?!?!?
#1
Wiring harness tips, how to make a rotary proof harness?!?!?
I'm about 95% sure im going w/ a wolf v500 3d w/ a flying loom into a 87 turbo ii
What kinda heatshrink, any special sheathings, what should i shield with something extra?
should i use electrical tape or what.
Did you reuse the big firewall grommet from the stock harness?
Anywhere I should watch out for and leave extra bits of slack in the harness?
Any tips on anything would be greatly greatly appreciated
Any good links to some milspec type stuff. I want this thing to look CLEAN and work in a rotary engined enviroment flawlessy for many many years.
All bidness!
-Ben Martin
What kinda heatshrink, any special sheathings, what should i shield with something extra?
should i use electrical tape or what.
Did you reuse the big firewall grommet from the stock harness?
Anywhere I should watch out for and leave extra bits of slack in the harness?
Any tips on anything would be greatly greatly appreciated
Any good links to some milspec type stuff. I want this thing to look CLEAN and work in a rotary engined enviroment flawlessy for many many years.
All bidness!
-Ben Martin
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Tip: If you can, try and locate your relays inside your car, rather than having them in your engine compartment.. I have had my share of relays go bad on me because of the heat generated in the engine compartment.. you don't want your fuel pump relay to go out on you in the middle of boosting or find yourself stuck in the middle of nowhere because of a relay gone bad
Electrical tape can work as a wrap, however It can be awfully messy to remove if you ever need to make an modifications to your harness or need to track down a break in a line .. alot of tape also won't hold up to the engine bay temps and will eventually lose it's adhesiveness either in a slimey mess or get brittle and crack from the heat.. All electrical tape is not made the same.. and most of the cheapo rolls you find will not hold up.. 3M Super 88 electrical tape is one of the best that I have found .. it's an 8.5 mil tape that is very durable .. it will withstand engine bay temps and remains flexible in extreme heat and cold as well .. not the cheapest stuff on the planet, but it works better than anythign else i've tried..
convoluted tubing works and is cheap .. easy to use and easy to remove.. but it's not the prettiest thing to have all over your engine bay ..
if you can afford it, you can go with :
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...rdSearch#rstop
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...DS=1&N=700+115
Makes for a nice clean harness and offers good protection..
Electrical tape can work as a wrap, however It can be awfully messy to remove if you ever need to make an modifications to your harness or need to track down a break in a line .. alot of tape also won't hold up to the engine bay temps and will eventually lose it's adhesiveness either in a slimey mess or get brittle and crack from the heat.. All electrical tape is not made the same.. and most of the cheapo rolls you find will not hold up.. 3M Super 88 electrical tape is one of the best that I have found .. it's an 8.5 mil tape that is very durable .. it will withstand engine bay temps and remains flexible in extreme heat and cold as well .. not the cheapest stuff on the planet, but it works better than anythign else i've tried..
convoluted tubing works and is cheap .. easy to use and easy to remove.. but it's not the prettiest thing to have all over your engine bay ..
if you can afford it, you can go with :
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...rdSearch#rstop
http://store.summitracing.com/egnsea...DS=1&N=700+115
Makes for a nice clean harness and offers good protection..
#6
im a household electrician and i use the 3m super 33, its the thinner stuff, but the 3m is awesome.
I would like to do some sorta of mesh tubing almost, think that would look super clean w/ heatshrink. maybe wrap some sort of aluminum shielding before covering w/ the outer layer whatever it may be
that painless wiring wirebraid looks about like what i had in mind
I would like to do some sorta of mesh tubing almost, think that would look super clean w/ heatshrink. maybe wrap some sort of aluminum shielding before covering w/ the outer layer whatever it may be
that painless wiring wirebraid looks about like what i had in mind
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#8
Learned alot | Alot to go
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The wolf forum is tiny, however over 50% of the people who post there seem to check the forum more than once a day, so a speedy reply is an almost garentee
My harness is simply wraped with some 'hightemp' wireloom wrap that napa sold me.
My harness comes though the stock engine harness grommet and travlse along the firewall untill its behind the center of my engine where it travles forward to the alternater with smaller branches spliting off where needed.
The ignition harness which is a seprate loom in the v4 atleast (may be diff for the v500 ) goes though the grommet also and travles along the firewall all the way to the drives side, then works its way fowrad to the trailing coil where i just split the casing and pulled out enough wiring to wire the trailing coils (which by the way in the V4 cannot use the stock t2 ignitor, ill cover this later) and then ran the remaning portion of the loom to the leading coil where it was terminated
I used a small portion of heattape available though summit for about a 1.5ft portion of the harness where it pass's over the downpipe (aprox 12" directly below) and all seems fine, not even sure if the extra heatwrap was necessary
I did use the stock big firewall grommet from the stock harness
I used most of the stock plugs asside for the injector clips for my harness
Also remeber the winshild wiper harness runs though the engine harness, its farily simple to remove with only 1 wire having to be cut, the rest just run parrell though the harness for aprox 2 feet
I didnt leave sufficent harness for the ecu inside the car so unplugging or working around my wiring is a pita some times. If i do another standalone some day il leave a large loop under the dash even after its mounted to allow some movement if needed
BTW you can mount the wolf in the stock ECU location with the bolts from the stock ECU, it fits under the kickpannel and everything
Now im not familiar with the v500 at all, and as far as i know you would be the first one on this forum installing one so everything else i say now could be wrong as for it pertains to the v4 ecu
The stock T2 ignitor will not work with the wolf (some say you can have wolf reflash your ecu to work with it, i have no experience with the matter) You simply have to replace your ignitor with either a duel channel bosch ignitor ($$$$ because of contracts with automanufactures) , 2 single channel bosch ignitors (pretty cheap) or a 3rd gen ignitor which is a 3 channel.
Myself, i used a 3rd gen ignitor and modified the base of the t2 trailing coil mounts to allow me to mount it in there and used it only to fire the trailing coils, and left the stock leading coil ignitor to fire the leading coil. there is a wiring diagram in this forum, i belive NYT posted it.
If you do go this route dont forget to by a ignitor plug with pigtails, as for making it work with spaded connectors sucks, and is not the correct way to do it (as i have )
Also it was originaly thought that you have to modify your CAS to work with wolf's ignition pickup hardware, however this was also proved wrong and an alternative way of wiring was posted along with the correct trigger and sync wheel settings
anything else just ask, as for this forum is very helpful
-Jacob
My harness is simply wraped with some 'hightemp' wireloom wrap that napa sold me.
My harness comes though the stock engine harness grommet and travlse along the firewall untill its behind the center of my engine where it travles forward to the alternater with smaller branches spliting off where needed.
The ignition harness which is a seprate loom in the v4 atleast (may be diff for the v500 ) goes though the grommet also and travles along the firewall all the way to the drives side, then works its way fowrad to the trailing coil where i just split the casing and pulled out enough wiring to wire the trailing coils (which by the way in the V4 cannot use the stock t2 ignitor, ill cover this later) and then ran the remaning portion of the loom to the leading coil where it was terminated
I used a small portion of heattape available though summit for about a 1.5ft portion of the harness where it pass's over the downpipe (aprox 12" directly below) and all seems fine, not even sure if the extra heatwrap was necessary
I did use the stock big firewall grommet from the stock harness
I used most of the stock plugs asside for the injector clips for my harness
Also remeber the winshild wiper harness runs though the engine harness, its farily simple to remove with only 1 wire having to be cut, the rest just run parrell though the harness for aprox 2 feet
I didnt leave sufficent harness for the ecu inside the car so unplugging or working around my wiring is a pita some times. If i do another standalone some day il leave a large loop under the dash even after its mounted to allow some movement if needed
BTW you can mount the wolf in the stock ECU location with the bolts from the stock ECU, it fits under the kickpannel and everything
Now im not familiar with the v500 at all, and as far as i know you would be the first one on this forum installing one so everything else i say now could be wrong as for it pertains to the v4 ecu
The stock T2 ignitor will not work with the wolf (some say you can have wolf reflash your ecu to work with it, i have no experience with the matter) You simply have to replace your ignitor with either a duel channel bosch ignitor ($$$$ because of contracts with automanufactures) , 2 single channel bosch ignitors (pretty cheap) or a 3rd gen ignitor which is a 3 channel.
Myself, i used a 3rd gen ignitor and modified the base of the t2 trailing coil mounts to allow me to mount it in there and used it only to fire the trailing coils, and left the stock leading coil ignitor to fire the leading coil. there is a wiring diagram in this forum, i belive NYT posted it.
If you do go this route dont forget to by a ignitor plug with pigtails, as for making it work with spaded connectors sucks, and is not the correct way to do it (as i have )
Also it was originaly thought that you have to modify your CAS to work with wolf's ignition pickup hardware, however this was also proved wrong and an alternative way of wiring was posted along with the correct trigger and sync wheel settings
anything else just ask, as for this forum is very helpful
-Jacob
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