Wolf 3D Question about Wolf3D diagnostic LEDs
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Joined: Aug 2004
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From: Land O Lakes, FL
Question about Wolf3D diagnostic LEDs
I have a Wolf3d V4 in a S5 and I cant get it to start. The LED marked "Input Trigger" does not blink during cranking but the unmarked LED below it is blinking red. What is the unmarked LED, I think its the second trigger in the CAS but Im not sure.
One is sync and the other is reference I think. How have you got your CAS wired and is it a standard 24/2 or is it a modifed CAS or one of those front mount CAS's like the series 6 ?? it looks like you are only gettting one signal === NO spark and No fuel
Once you have both of these you should see lots of LEDS flashing and loud noises coming from your exhaust
Cheers
Michael Smith
Once you have both of these you should see lots of LEDS flashing and loud noises coming from your exhaust

Cheers
Michael Smith
Originally Posted by Michael Smith
One is sync and the other is reference I think. How have you got your CAS wired and is it a standard 24/2 or is it a modifed CAS or one of those front mount CAS's like the series 6 ?? it looks like you are only gettting one signal === NO spark and No fuel
Once you have both of these you should see lots of LEDS flashing and loud noises coming from your exhaust
Cheers
Michael Smith
Once you have both of these you should see lots of LEDS flashing and loud noises coming from your exhaust

Cheers
Michael Smith
Thanks for all your help
OK back to basics.
Is it a standard S5 CAS?
Did you use the supplied cable to get from your ECU to your CAS.
Is the earth connected to the shield ONLY at the ECU and insulated inside the CAS.
Are the pickups close enough to the stators???
Have the pickups lost a few turns reducing the output Voltage? Compair to each other to check AC voltage while cranking....
Did you use any connectors between the ECU and CAS?? Don't unless you have silver or gold connectors.
Solder all the wires in the CAS..
Also if you look back at some of the posts on STARTING you will see that for some unknown reason the ECU on the first startup needs to be cranked very FAST. I have seen this soooo many times I think this happens to EVERY WOLF ECU for its first fireup. Get 2 good Batteries and a very high quality jumper leads. You need 325 -350 RPM before they fire the first time.
I hope this helps.
MSN Sabertoothdingbat@hotmail.com I have Voice
Cheers
Michael Smith
Is it a standard S5 CAS?
Did you use the supplied cable to get from your ECU to your CAS.
Is the earth connected to the shield ONLY at the ECU and insulated inside the CAS.
Are the pickups close enough to the stators???
Have the pickups lost a few turns reducing the output Voltage? Compair to each other to check AC voltage while cranking....
Did you use any connectors between the ECU and CAS?? Don't unless you have silver or gold connectors.
Solder all the wires in the CAS..
Also if you look back at some of the posts on STARTING you will see that for some unknown reason the ECU on the first startup needs to be cranked very FAST. I have seen this soooo many times I think this happens to EVERY WOLF ECU for its first fireup. Get 2 good Batteries and a very high quality jumper leads. You need 325 -350 RPM before they fire the first time.
I hope this helps.
MSN Sabertoothdingbat@hotmail.com I have Voice
Cheers
Michael Smith
Originally Posted by VaGambler
Hey Michael , the thread mentioned above was made on my behalf . My buddy was getting frustrated on not getting a good signal . We have the mod CAS and its wirred up correctly as far as I know . The problem we r having is when we need tech help there is not one to call . I ordered the item from summit that helps with the signal , but we were trying to race the car tonight . Also where do you down load the latest firmware . We did not see it on the web site .
Thanks for all your help
Thanks for all your help
Cheers
Michael Smith
Also if you have a modified CAS like in the V3 manual download my map in the MAP BANK
it uses a modded CAS and doesn't use the secondries to get it running. The maps is rich and retarded and is a good starting point. You can drive it slow.
Cheers
Michael Smith
it uses a modded CAS and doesn't use the secondries to get it running. The maps is rich and retarded and is a good starting point. You can drive it slow.
Cheers
Michael Smith
Originally Posted by Michael Smith
OK back to basics.
Is it a standard S5 CAS?
Did you use the supplied cable to get from your ECU to your CAS.
Is the earth connected to the shield ONLY at the ECU and insulated inside the CAS.
Are the pickups close enough to the stators???
Have the pickups lost a few turns reducing the output Voltage? Compair to each other to check AC voltage while cranking....
Did you use any connectors between the ECU and CAS?? Don't unless you have silver or gold connectors.
Solder all the wires in the CAS..
Also if you look back at some of the posts on STARTING you will see that for some unknown reason the ECU on the first startup needs to be cranked very FAST. I have seen this soooo many times I think this happens to EVERY WOLF ECU for its first fireup. Get 2 good Batteries and a very high quality jumper leads. You need 325 -350 RPM before they fire the first time.
I hope this helps.
MSN Sabertoothdingbat@hotmail.com I have Voice
Cheers
Michael Smith
Is it a standard S5 CAS?
Did you use the supplied cable to get from your ECU to your CAS.
Is the earth connected to the shield ONLY at the ECU and insulated inside the CAS.
Are the pickups close enough to the stators???
Have the pickups lost a few turns reducing the output Voltage? Compair to each other to check AC voltage while cranking....
Did you use any connectors between the ECU and CAS?? Don't unless you have silver or gold connectors.
Solder all the wires in the CAS..
Also if you look back at some of the posts on STARTING you will see that for some unknown reason the ECU on the first startup needs to be cranked very FAST. I have seen this soooo many times I think this happens to EVERY WOLF ECU for its first fireup. Get 2 good Batteries and a very high quality jumper leads. You need 325 -350 RPM before they fire the first time.
I hope this helps.
MSN Sabertoothdingbat@hotmail.com I have Voice
Cheers
Michael Smith
it is a S 5 series CAS that has been modified , but I do have a stock one
We did use the supplied cable from Wolf to connect the CAS to the Wolf computer
The shielded wire is grounded to the body of the car near the Wolf but there is no pins on the plug going to the CAS . Pics coming to your email account
The pick ups are as close as I can get them to the stators.
no connectors where used except for the stock ones on the original harness , should I cut the plug to the CAS ??? and solder it
I have a battery charger going to the battery while cranking .
I'll send you some pics after posting this thread .
Last edited by VaGambler; Aug 16, 2006 at 02:15 PM.
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Battery charger = Max 20 CCA
Battery + Charger= 450 -500 + 20 CCA
2 X Battery = 1000 CCA therefore use 2 batteries from experience is the best.
After 30 min running you can do what ever you please
Modified CAS works good.
I would look very carefully at the CAS and connectors. They only put out a very low voltage
Cheers
Michael Smith
Battery + Charger= 450 -500 + 20 CCA
2 X Battery = 1000 CCA therefore use 2 batteries from experience is the best.
After 30 min running you can do what ever you please
Modified CAS works good.
I would look very carefully at the CAS and connectors. They only put out a very low voltage
Cheers
Michael Smith
the one you are asking about is the input triggert 2 light (sync light when tunning ref + sync mag sensors)
The two under "ignition 4" are light for ignition outputs 5 & 6 (only available on wolf 3d v4 plus)
The two under aux1 &2 are aux outputs 3 & 4 (only available on wolf 3d v4 plus)
The two under "ignition 4" are light for ignition outputs 5 & 6 (only available on wolf 3d v4 plus)
The two under aux1 &2 are aux outputs 3 & 4 (only available on wolf 3d v4 plus)
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