signofinfinity

My FD is being a bitch ! she starts right up.....cold...... once reaches 70 deg, f o r g e t i t!!

She has a hint of firing up but just wont go.... rpm will pick up till say 300, but wont pick up further.

This started happening after my rebuild. i reduced the fuel pulse addon, increased it, reduced the overall trim, increased it.... but she wont start after 70degC. I was told to drive her....so the seals seat up,(in fact i only risked some 60 km) i cant afford to have her stall and blocking everyone! any recomendations? i am willing to consider easy start spray for the emergency.... but it seems to be compression.

Anyone had this issue? and how did you overcome it?

damn she's bein a frustrated bitch!

Michael Smith

My new engine was a problem too when it was real new it was the same. Thats why I used the flood clear. When the motor is hot it cranks slower becasue it is tight and floods easy. Try and set you pickup sensor to very low and give it a crank when hot and see if that makes a difference too!

Cheers
Michael Smith

signofinfinity

that happens true.... its slow to start... will try it out...

keep ya posted

G

GORacing

Hi George,
The first thing in trouble shooting would be to make sure of the engines mechanical condition, So I would suggest taking it to your engine builder or a competant shop and have a compression test done while it is still hot to confirm what you suspect... but in the mean time try this...bearing in mind that when the engine is sealing properly it is important not to start combustion and the build up of pressure too early or the engine will develop "kick-back" (pressure developes too soon at the slow cranking speeds and tries to turn engine backwards), but with the likelyhood that alot of pressure is leaking past the seals because they are not seated yet you may try advancing the timing for startup only ("cranking ignition timing") a little at a time and you will find this will help accelerate the engine enough to become self sustaining. As the engine seals wear in you notice it starting to sound a little labored during start and will have to back the advance out of it... hope this helps

Gregg

signofinfinity

Thanks greg..... i will look into it... well, i will get the guy to compression test it when hot.

I only drove it fo some sixty km since my rebuild with very light loads and just 4500rpm rev limit.....

some times while cranking, the starter seems to be blocked and slows in the cranking.....flood clear... and accelerates back up....

I will try the ignition thing.

Keep ya posted!!

ps.... i am going back for stock plugs.... i am running cold plugs at the moment... i think best to go for hotter plugs!

George

GORacing

Hi George,

"some times while cranking, the starter seems to be blocked and slows in the cranking.....flood clear... and accelerates back up.... "

Hmmm... go to the basics... rich fuel mixture burns faster than a lean one... this will cause the kick-back you are seeing...
question- is this a map from a past engine or is it a fresh one? and does it kick-back during cold startup as well as hot?

"ps.... i am going back for stock plugs.... i am running cold plugs at the moment... i think best to go for hotter plugs!

George"

This would be good until you get the seals seated...

Gregg

signofinfinity

Well, the map had to be modified.... i increased the primary injector flows to 850cc. Porting has been much increased. However cold start is just fine with no hesitation what soever. This morning i will be setting up the the skiped staged injector, and play with the start ignition!

thanks

George

signofinfinity

well i tried all the above..... the bitch wont even start!!!!

i retarded start timing to 0...all the way up till 30degs... to no avail. Man i am getting pissed off at this damn car!
tried pulse skip o 1 on stage... but i cant tell you ... the bitch wouldnt start....
initial add on to 5 ms
post start at 4ms....

... and million of swearing! out of 3 bloody months rain... today the wx cleared up... and now she wont start.

Michael... i did dump that bucket of water onto her as we discussed. the bitch went on strike... and i feel like kicking her ***!!!

signofinfinity

now am waitin till sunday for a compression test, and new plugs.!

Michael Smith

Checking the compression may be a good idea but I would look at a few things as well. The three basics Air,Fuel and spark. I would check the air filter then fuel pressure and then I would check both leading and trailing coils are working. The only time I had no start probems with a good engine was leading coil failure. I find that the best way to test you leading spark is with the plugs still in and use a timing light on the leading leads. Compression may cause the spark to blow out this eliminates that problem. I also had a starter fail and the symptom was slow or no crank while hot. You should see 250- 350 rpm at crank if not you have starter problems if you do have 250 -300 rpm then it could be the engine, air, fuel, or spark.

The other solution


Cheers
Michael Smith

signofinfinity

the one i like most at the moment!!!.filter i am running dual cone filter... clean and fine! spark the stobe works fine at cranking..! rpm on handcontroller is 285 ish....!!

engine

GORacing

Hi George,
Now that the engine no longer starts, I would agree with Michael, go for the basics, but beware that just because the timing light triggers with all the plugs in place, the plugs may not be firing were they need to (at the electrode end), due to glazing (one way is for carbon from rich condition becomes baked on to the insulator which becomes conductive), so now pull them out and check/grit blast them to clear the insulation, also as M suggested, check for fuel, I also, as a quick check, will install the leading plugs only and crank it over to listen for consistancy and intensity of the pulses as well as to watch for the amount of fuel vapor, if any, that should be coming out the trailing holes...so many things to check and ways to check them...
Gregg

signofinfinity

tomorrow is D Day.... plugs, comp test in other words... all the works...

will keep ya posted

George

signofinfinity

So, DDay today! Newly charged Batteries..two! stock plugs, strobe.... tuner....we should geta rippin today!

I think, i figured the problem.... a bit... While crankinging and no start, after a number of attempts, you get a big BANG out of the tail pipe...painfully loud! that means the ignition is wayyyyyyyyyyyyyy reeeeeeeeetttarded! Trig 1 is at 60.1. Before, She use to at least start up at 49.2degs trig 1. So, re check and put a correct trig one.... thats my first step..... then .... we'll see. I will keep ya posted

George

signofinfinity

the wolf messed up the ignition sequences!!!! for some reason i found a mess in the ignition sequence....trigger one settings...and fel delivery!memory glitch??? I foulnd the folders all in havoc!

I did find the rear rotor lacking in compression....75 87 76! front was 87 88 86. So compression wasnt great after all! What i knew was that the OMP was pumping too much two stroke, so thats eliminated. I left the car running as we speak. I reved her up to 1400rpm, and left her running to dry up the quater tankof gas!

i must get that rear rotor to seal up! With no fuel, intake elbow off, WOT, and cranking you could hear the psst pst of lost compression! Any idea how to help apex seal seat up? I left her runnin in the garage...neighbours must be damn pissed of.....but what can i do?? i am open to suggestions!

George

ps... i put in new stock leading plugs....no deal... still wont start hot

G

Michael Smith

George you have 2 choices. 1 pull it down again. 2 read the mazda manual on free rev sealing of apex seals (with oil)and see if it gets better. * my prefered option if the engine is new. I would also check your earthing if you have data corruption. You could reload a backup too would fix the map. I think I still have one of your maps if you have lost them.

Cheers
Michael Smith

P.S. maybe we could make a MAP BANK so that we have backups off site.

signofinfinity

well, a MAP BAnk is not a bad idea... NO WAY i am pulling out the engine again.... lol over my dead body! i will drive her to bits till it seals!!!! i am using ngk 6 on the low comp rotor on leading and ngk 7 on the leading rotor 1.....

it seems to help a bit.

I will check for better earthing

george

GORacing

Hi George,
A bank is not bad idea, but for now just go back to Thread "fuel/ignition map for wolf3d v4+" and look at post number 4 and there is a copy of your map that you posted.

Gregg

signofinfinity

Yeh, I have updated my maps... I partitioned my Cdrive, and stacked all my maps and documention there...lol i also pdfed a couple of these threads on here....

all next week and next i am on forced leave... so i have ample time to play

George

Michael Smith

I wish I could fix my computer that quick. I just done a full yearly backup and it took 24 hours and my machine isn't slow. My machine backs up every day but I like to do a full backup 3 times a year. Last time I broke my machine it took 8 full days working from 7 am to 12 midnight to restore the data I have saved. I do lots of things besides rotary cars. For a hobby I build electronic equipment. I have built a generator thats is 1200% efficient to prove that our electronic theory is wrong (actually it could be more powerful than that). I built a gravitational field generator that caused me to have a visit from some defence engineers..I can't patent that...LOL I am in the process of building a USB waveform generator. I write programs for equipment to computer interfaces. I have heaps of info on health and healing. Compressed it amounts to 40 GIG. Also my machine is dual boot with a Linux partition.(above the 40 GIG)
I will have to get a dedicated internet computer to make life easy!!!
Then I have a family and work as well..sheezz I should get a life after all I still have the 4-6 hours sleep that I could use to get more done!!!!

Cheers
Michael Smith

signofinfinity

michael.... how the hell do you manage!!!!

btw.... i noticed this while cranking.....

INJ1&2 light up, turn off, INJ 3&4 light up! while engine running, i get all INJ1234 pulsing!

Now, during cranking i would figure that the INJ 1 then 2 alternatively light up.... and just INJ 3 and 4 for staging..... any insight?

why 1 - 2 together alternating with 3 - 4 together and repeat... scratch scratch blink blink!!!

Michael Smith

George please repost your map.. we may need to look at the sequencing maybe revistis nyt threads. You should have 1 and 3,4 then 2 and 3,4 with secondary skip set to 0 when it is in staging NOT starting. While cranking you should only see 1 then 2 NO 3 or 4......can anyone confirm that???
Cheers
Michael Smith
P.S. what other data has changed? You may have a faulty ECU.

signofinfinity

no... data mix up was from my flippin maps. but, on cranking, i get 1 AND 2 the 3 AND 4 alternating!!!!

while running on load 20, i get all 4 lights pulsing... and no staging is set at 20.... this is the last map.....

George

Michael Smith

The map is OK trigger 1 is ok at 59.1 degrees the wolf is having a hissy fit. The staging looks ok.

But I think I know whats going on..you can't have staging skip set to 0 and have staging above 50%
under configuration/engine/injection sequencing/injector staged pulse skip...if you set this to 0 then the maximum staging is 50% (because with staging 3 and 4 fire together) if skip is set to 1 then you can have 100% this is because with skip set to Zero it fires for each injection event. If set to 1 it fires every 2 event which allows 100% this isn't a problem unless you go above half the time it takes to do 1 revolution. Anyway the Wolf does strange things when you do this.


Cheers

Michael Smith