lowkee33

iTrader: (8)

I am going to load my map and if anyone can help me I would greatly appreciate it. Thank you in advance.

My car is a 93 FD
New Motor 3000 miles on build
RB Catback
High Flow Cat
TO4B single turbo
550's and 850's
FMIC

Let me know if you need anymore info.This map I am loading is what was in my wolf when I bought it used. If someone could get me started with a map I would Thank you forever.

signofinfinity

are you plug and play?
in case just take one of my maps and start as a base map from there..


i will post one if yours is a plug n play version.

lowkee33

iTrader: (8)

Yeah I am plug n play Thank you much for al of your help. I will look for one of your maps right now. I will check back to see if you have posted a map.

signofinfinity

here is:

550/850.... this is just for you to use as a base.....

lowkee33

iTrader: (8)

Thank you much I will let you know how everything works out I really appreciate it.

signofinfinity

welcome!

hope it works

Michael Smith

Your map changed a little You NEED to check your TIMING using a zeroing map adjust as required. To run the map you NEED access to a wideband to watch AFR's The timing is safe but each car is different. You can compare maps to see the changes I made (heaps) .

Cheers
Michael Smith

lowkee33

iTrader: (8)

Thank you very much I have an ae wideband hooked up now. I went out to start my car today and it started but it was running real funny and my wideband was going between 12 and 13 at about 1500 rpms. I shut it down and tried to start it again and it wouldn't so I pulled the plugs and the leading 2 plug had never been fired on. I had just put new plugs on it and it was clean as could be. I checked spark and there was spark every where but on that plug. I am gonna try and fix that then I will load the map and try it. Thank you much for the help.

lowkee33

iTrader: (8)

Ok I used Michael's map and tthe car started it up I made a few adjustments to get it to idle good. My wide band was showing about 14. Then after about 10 or 15 minutes the car would make a funny noise then idle up then down. It sounded like it was only running on one rotor. I pulled the leading plugs and the L1 plug was black and the L2 plug was bareley dirty. Also I forgot to mention I put new plugs in right before I started it. I checked spark on the front and rear and now the rear has no spark. Any suggestions at all

Michael Smith

Hi Lowkee33 you have a leaking injector or it is wired wrong. A AFR of 14 is too lean with the injection rate on the map > It could even be that you have one clogged injector and one leaking one or your fuel pressure regulator is not working. Your idle AFR should be about 13.2-13.5 when hot. You need to investigate the problem the leaking injector is in Rotor 1 at idle only your primaries should be working. My bet is that your rotor 1 > 850 injector is leaking. The other problem could be Rotor 2 550cc injector has stopped working.

Cheers
Michael Smith

lowkee33

iTrader: (8)

Thank you again I will pull them and do the injector test with a 9 volt and let you know what the outcome is. I think all I do is wire a 9 volt and listen to see of the injector is clicking. I will get back with you.

Michael Smith

LowKee33 to test the injectors for leaking you need to keep the pressure on them. You will also have to check static fuel pressure and pressure at idle which should be lower. In my car I had to run a vaccuum pipe from the fuel pressure regulator to the manifold under the butterflies. This is because it used to feed via soleniods and without factory engine management these did not work. I also use a special tool I call the "Electric Hammer" to free stuck injectors and it works well. It saves pulling the inlet off some times. It consists of a very large transistor and a 555 timer chip. The unit has 2 controls one for frequency and the other for duty cycle. 12 Volts is used to drive the electronics and the transistor sinks current and turns on the injector.

Cheers
Michael Smith
P.S. In any engine that is fuel injected my first tank of fuel is 25:1 two stroke oil to help clean and lube the injectors. It smokes but you have less trouble with the injectors.

lowkee33

iTrader: (8)

Can you explain to me how you ran the vaccum line. Do I need to do this by chance. Also how or where could I get an electric hammer.

lowkee33

iTrader: (8)

Ok I put the 2 cycle in and let the car run for a cple minutes and for some reason it started running good. I rev'd good it would backfire a very little when I would let off the gas but the afr was good and all. I let it keep running then all of the sudden it bogs down and sounds funny and backfires really loud every time I hit the gas. It is almost like the L2 coil pack quites firing. The front plug will be black and the rear will be almost clean.

Michael Smith

Ok my guess is that you may be on the money get your timing light and place it on both trailing and leading coils and see if you lose your spark. Now that being said if the leading or trailing coil fails it still idles ok but is hard to start. I still think maybe a stuck injector is a problem fowling the plugs. The backfire thing indicates raw fuel in the exhaust. I run the vacuum from the old map sensor port directly to the fuel pressure regulator.

Cheers
Michael Smith

lowkee33

iTrader: (8)

Ok I did the timing light and my L1 and L2 are firing corectly my T1 isn't firing and my T2 is real random. Also where is the old map sensor port located ad did you have to make your own vaccum nipple on the FPR? I want to thank you for all the help you have given me so far. By the way I will let you know the car starts up perectly and idles by itself. It is just hitting the gas it goes lean then rich and after a few minutes running it runs good then it bogs down and starts the lean rich thing all over again.

lowkee33

iTrader: (8)

Ok I went in to check the vaccum line on the FPR and I did have it run to the side of the intake close to the throttle body but not on the throttle body. Is this ok or shouldI move it to the TB?

Michael Smith

It looks like that :
(1)
you have S4 ignitors which may be possible if you have a transition engine. That is a engine that is different from a S4 or S5 the last run of S4 had them and maybe the first S5.
Or
(2)
Also the ignition driving settings on your ECU are screwed up.
Or
(3)
Your T1 T2 Ignitor(S) is(are) stuffed.
Or
(4) Your T1 plug is stuffed
Or
(5)
Any combination of the above

This would explain the run and then choke. The Rotor without the the trailing ignition will fowl the Leading plugs quicker than the one randomly firing. It would go down on one rotor then..

We are very close now
The map sensor is the square tin on the strut tower on the right had side. If you pick up this line and run it to the fuel pressure regulator you should be cooking with gas.
Cheers
Michael Smith

lowkee33

iTrader: (8)

I didn't know if you knew but my car is an FD I probably forgot to tell you that. Does all that you said above still apply for an FD. Also the maps you fixed for me are they good for a FD I am know not able to get the car started. It is dumping ungodly amounts of fuel all of the sudden. I still want to Thank you, you have been a great help to me. If you ever need anything let me know.

Michael Smith

OK the basic fuel map should keep your engine running. If I get a chance I will have a look at the wiring and plumbing of all the lines tonight and get back to you. If you have heaps of fuel you DO have a leaking injector somewhere.

Cheers
Michael Smith

lowkee33

iTrader: (8)

I did notice yestarday when I was cranking the car that the lights on the side of the wolf the ones for the injector drivers, only 3 of them were flashing. Now should I only have 2 of them flashing while starting and idling or should all four be flashing? I am gonna pull the injectors ad try to clean each of them. I did try adding premix and letting it run and it would kick in and run good for longer than it usually did but then the next which was yestarday I couldn't start it anymore. When I would pull the plugs out they would be dripping wet and it would be running out of the plug holes.

Michael Smith

OK here is the test :
Load George's Map and test the spark.
Fit the factory ECU and test the spark.
If both are faulty then your Ignitor is faulty.
If only the Wolf has no T1 then the driver circuits in the Wolf are faulty. I have never seen this but it is possible as it is just electronics. Maybe the last owner connected it directly to a coil..
Cheers
Micahel Smith