here is a copy of my map for my version 3.1 wolf map it isn't zipped I just changed the file extention. Change it from 13B turbo Crawford dyno tune 106kw.zip to 13B turbo Crawford dyno tune 106kw.wmc and you should be able to load it right up and this will run your car if it has standard injectors.
Regards
Michael Smith
P.S. use this as a base map only!!!!!!

 

I have everything hooked up correctly and setup right (rotary mode/multicoil/mazda) but right now I suspect the leading igniter to be screwed up. I'll replace it later this week, and test again. I didn't really considered this before because I didn't have trailing either (only T2) but it seems that was caused by that blue wire. BTW: the manual doesn't say anything about that wire! No wonder I didn't have the thing right!
Now T1 & T2 work, but still no leading. I'll use an FD igniter to see if it helps. I'll probable try to use only the leading side of it, if that's possible. It looks as if that wouldn't be too hard to connect. I'm not keen to start messing with all the wires again.
If it solves my leading problem, I'll take most of the car apart, as I plan a serious bit of "TLC"... Respray, some interior work, polishing etc. So then I'll probable also hook up the trailing to the FD igniter, if this can be done with a V3.1 anyway.
I guess by using an FD igniter you'd no longer use "MAZDA" mode, but "STANDARD" as it doesn't use a "toggle" wire, am I correct?
Regards,
Bart

 

Just see if someone will swap your leading coil into there car to see if it a dud! Heres a trick to test your leading coil and igniter.. The lead has only 2 wires one is signal and the other is 12Volts . Find out which is 12Volts by turning on the ignition without cranking. One will 12Volts, the other will be ground. Now disconnect the wiring of you leading coil Ignitor and disconnect your +v lead to your battery leave the earth /-ve connected to your car. Get a Jumper wire with a 5 amp fuse and switch and run it to the lead coil ignitor. Now get a 10K resistor and run it to ground to the other terminal of the leading coil ignitor. Now with a 1 k resistor go from the positive to the resistor and touch it on the leading coil side of the 10k resistor. (BTW pull out one plug and place on the block.) you should have one spark if you don't it is a dud!
PS use electrical gloves to do the last bit as it could kill you if the High Voltage get you. Rubber boots too!
Regards
Michael Smith

 

Mazda mode will work with a series 5 lead ignitor you could also replce the ignitor
bit in the back of the coil with a bosch bim024 if it is only the ignitor and not the coil.
Michael Smith

 

I'm going to see what it does with a FD igniter for leading, and then move on from there.
Thanks for the map, I'm looking for a good base map for my setup (S5 TII, stock injectors, stock boost, 70mm exhaust, free-flowing intake)

 

Thats exactly what I had but a series 4 standard engine, 75 mm pipe, standard 550 cc injectors standard boost and idle control.
It ran ok. and made 106Kw at the wheels on the dyno @ 35 C(air temp), 70% humidity. You may find this map very close keep a eye on the O2 sensor readings.
Regards
Michael Smith

 

you mentioned "You may find this map very close keep a eye on the O2 sensor readings.
Regards
Michael Smith"

But you never shared your map

Thanks a ton , i'll stand by waiting your reply

 

But you never shared your map

Thanks a ton , i'll stand by waiting your reply[/QUOTE]

i think Mike did...ckeck a couple of posts back..u might have missed it..

Regards

G

 

was this a t2 conversion into a NA?

 

mine (the initial thread starter) was a TII swap into a former 12A first gen. That's the reason I wanted the Wolf: it is much easier to wire in then a OEM ecu.

 

That's debatable... I was able to get a complete car when I did my swap. As such I pulled all the factory harness I needed. The result looks stock. For me this was a requirement since I am going for California approval. Should be a breeze as soon as I can get a turbo that doesn't leak oil out the back. With the new Wolf Plug & Play I still have the option of ECU changes w/o rewiring.

http://www.rx7.org/gallery/TIIswap/DSCN1598

 

Im sick of my friggin car as well. Im haviong a shop (CARB CONNECTION) tune it with a dyno and Wideband.. They cant get my car run without being way too rich. It still wont cold start very well and fouls the plugs almost everytime it is coldstarted. They have hadit for 3 months and have been able to get to idle better. Other than that is was faster before I brought it in and less rich

 

http://2ndgenrx7.freeservers.com/techmaster.html GO TO NA TO T2 SWOP

 

No offense but does a shop called "carb connection" sound like a good place to pay for programmable EFI tuning? They might be great but ... just seems odd.

 

I think its my RX7 and he says he is never doing a Rotary again. He just turned down a FD with Tec 3 tuning because he has had it with Rx7s. Other than this problem, they tune all kinds of exotic cars. They have a good reputation and have a lot of backround with many Tuning jobs. I mean they have all kinds of BMW's Porsches Vipers and ol school muscles in their for tuning and other things. He just is having problems with a rotary and mine is no exception.

 

rotaries are a mean beast on their own bro.....
nothing compares to them


lovely angels