Ever since I put a TII engine with a Wolf 3D V3.1 into my car, the damn thing doesn't run. It's been on the driveway for months now...
I tried everything, then just gave up and send in my license plates. After taking a break for some months (couldn't stand dreaming of ignition signals anymore), I just feel it needs to be fixed.
All the inputs are ok, and according to the Wolf output is ok aswell. Yet there's no spark at all. Well, there is: T2 fires. But none of the leading ones does.
I rewired/resoldered the stuff, to avoid any possible bad connections. No result.
The ECU is set up correctly for the engine/coil setup I'm running.
( S5 TII engine/S2 car, S4 coilpacks )
Is there anyone here who had a simular problem and found the cause???
My battery is in the back, but I used 50mm˛ cables for both current as negative/ground. Grounding is to the chassis, and one to the engine. Many components (including coilpacks) have been grounded extra, with 8mm˛ cables, and wide copperstraps. Grounding shouldn't be a problem.
Power supply is through relais, and most cables are 8mm˛ (apart, of course, the cable for the starter, that one's 50mm˛ aswell)

Bart

 

How do you have your CAS wired? how do you have your coils wired? Did you modify your CAS?

 

CAS is modified and wired as per manual. Like I said, the inputs are ok, and leds are flashing. So the WOLF does give ignition signals. The coils don't react on those!?
The coils are wired as the manual states. I have checked and double checked, and even contacted Wolf about those, but that's all done the way it should.
Also, the leading coil shouldn't give too much troubles anyway. Only the trailing can be a problem because of the strange system with "toggle" wire. This is the only reason why S5 coils *might* not work with V3.1. Leading coils are identical S4/S5 and should never pose a problem.

 

one question though: the ign cable is shielded, do I have to ground this extra to avoid the signals to be disturbed? I didn't do anything special with this cable, just installed it. Can it be influenced by any other leads/cables?

 

what are you using for an igniter?

 

mazda FC S4 coilpacks (coil+igniters in one)

 

I know you think everything is correct. But the thing is you need to take a pic of how everything is wire for us to know that.

If you want real answers give us real data to work with..



Basically you are just asking us to guess.



One thing you might try is a external ignitor. have you tried new coils/ignitors?

 

I did change coilpacks, so unless I got two sets that were both broken (so all 4 coilpacks) the problem shouldn't be inside of them.
Pics of wiring...hm, I'll try tomorrow when there's some light again. But I'm not sure if it'll be easy to make proper pics.
Like I said: the leds are flashing, yet the plugs aren't firing. So I'd guess the problem is between the ECU and the coilpacks???

 

if youre using fc coilpacks with igniters, the leading should be straightforward to wire up. it needs 12v switched, and the signal from the wolf. I'm not sure on the trailing, if i recall correctly, it only has one ignition input with a toggle? i might be wrong, that might be how the FD does it, but i'm not sure. i havent worked with a stock ignition in so many years =[

as i said in lots of posts, ive had best luck scrapping the FC igniters and using an FD igniter

 

trailing has one input+a toggle, indeed.
FD igniters? Do they even work with Wolf 3.1 ??? And if so, how is it done? Use the igniter only (and keep FC coils) or the coils+igniters?

 

maybe its your starter

 

the plugs do not fire. they don't show a spark with a timing light, nor do they fire when they are grounded (plug in lead, but out of the engine)
How can this be the starter?

 

Darn, its been awhile since i messed with a 3.1. I used to have one, now 4.0. (4.0 is WORLDS better by the way). I believe on the 3.1 you have to grind the teeth on the CAS and use the bosch ignitor specified on the wolf website. Otherwise, you may have to go with FD coils. Ill see if i can find my old 3.1 info for my old setup....

 

FD igniter/fc coils is best combo. the igniter has an input/output for the leading, and one for each trailing, so its a direct wire up, very easy. i just posted a howto in the forum.

 

i have an fd ignitor for sell btw w/ connector and flying leads

 

I know this is a totally off suggestion, but when installing my motor, everything was wired correctly the ecu was getting signal. But there was no spark , after 5 heads thinking about it plus a few pizzas. We decided for fun of it to install another set of plugs ( the ones in there were new )( we checked and tried everything else, we thought this would be the first thing to check), and boom it fired.

I doubt it may be that, but heck just try it out.

 

To simplify things a bit, just stick to leading coil and spark problem. The car will run on leading alone, provided the plugs aren’t fuel soaked and you have decent compression.
My opinion is the V3 is junk, don’t give up, and trade it in for V4.
Also the harnesses are almost the same, a simple swap of ecu’s and ck the pin out there are some minor differences. “O2 and turbo timer leads”
Hope this helps.

 

I went for new plugs too, as I thought it could do something. When you're as desperate as I am you'll do almost everything
I used a few plugs (old and new) but it's always the same: T2 works, all the rest doesn't.

 

Compression shouldn't be a problem. I know it'll run on leading only, but I can't get the leading to work.
As for swapping for a V4... Hm, I'm kinda broke after what went into the car. Don't forget we have to pay a lot for those ECU's, because of import taxes etc.
But is really encouraging to hear the V3 is *junk*... :-/

 

will this work with a V3.1???

how much does a FD igniter set me back?

 

Here is how I did it.
you need to identify 4 wires going to you igniters and coils. Do you have the existing
harness?
My old computer has 3 plugs
1 is 24 pins
2 is 18 pins
3 is 10 pins
Get hold of the wiring diagram from
http://www.iluvmyrx7.com/index.htm
check of the manual 4B page 66,67, 68
Pin M goes to ignition signal ground goes to ,Pin 31 on the wolf blue wire| Chassis
Pin V on the ecu goes to pin33 leading coil yellow on wolf | RED on 2 pin plug
Pin U on the ecu goes to pin 34 trailing select gray on wolf | White on 4 pin plug
pin X on the ecu goes to pin 32 trail timing Red on wolf | Red on 4 pin plug
YOU MUST HAVE THE BLUE WIRE CONNECTED TO THE CHASSIS!!
Failure to do so means NO SPARK!!!!!!!!
Regards
Michael Smith
BEEN there done that lost much hair!!!

 

Another option is to use a total of three leading igniters. The trailing setup is two leading igniters and bases with trailing coils on top. You probably have these parts on hand.

 

Seems the blue wire on the wolf wasn't properly connected. It is now, but only helped a little bit: I now have spark on trailing (both) not on leading...
I'm not sure why: everything is wired up as Michael Smith stated, I checked again.
I don't have much of the original (Mazda) wiring left, since the car is a 1982 first gen, not a TII. Also, the setup with three leading igniters is a bit expensive for me: coilpacks run at €180 (well over $200) for a used set here. We had our S4 NA's with dizzy, so coilpacks are a bit rare. I might be able to source an FD igniter though.
I guess the igniter on my leading coil *might* be screwed, but I don't know a way of testing this. (only the for coil itself)
Since there are very few TII's overhere, it's hard to get hold of a car to test the igniters by swapping coilpacks.

 

make sure you have the right output from the wolf hooked up to the leading igniter, make sure its getting power, make sure the coil is good

 

Make sure that you have the ignition mode set to rotary ignition mode and the mode set to multi.
Regards
Michael Smith