What about nursing school?

 

Still going to school. And working. This is something I want to do as a side job.

 

That's cool, I'd love to help you build a widebody FD, that would be awesome!

 

jesus, page 3? slackers.

btw, what do you guys think about a production 26B? i can't help but think about how to tackle it, as of now i've been researching how to build a static balancer for the shaft at this point.

i guess i just feel a bit overwhelmed by all the ferraris, lambos, audis, jags, mercedes v12's and bugattis tailgating me in the 5 cylinder turbo diesel. they need to be shown up.

i think it will have to be mandatory to run on E85 though, to save the environment and all...

 

Nice Ben YOU CAN DO IT!

 

_sticker updated_

 

Nice!

 

hehe nice Michal

while it's a little bit of a different approach i believe it WILL work, but of course be a few months before i get the initial shaft created.

the thought is two 13B shafts modified and attached at the center area splined just behind the center bearing support. deflection will be the only factor if it will work or not and that is dependent on the shafts themselves.

taking that a 13B engine is balanced in a way that the center of the engine does not require a bearing for deflection, the opposing strokes cancel out the harmonics effect for the most part.

so you have the front rotor timed at TDC, second phased at 180*, third at 90* and fourth at 270* with 3 main journal bearings and a mid shaft key drawn together by a through bolt.

the oiling system requires modifications since the shaft isn't hollow all the way through any longer, requiring oil galleys drilled at front of the motor to provide oil to the front stat gear to be pushed through towards the back of the engine and the rear iron galley will provide oil to the rear of the shaft pushing it foward.

this will require rekeyed and weighted balancers, and a higher volume oil pump with a dry sump oil pan due to the clearance issues associated with the much longer engine.

Granny's did a similar setup except which is in part where i got the idea from. their engine had no issues with the e-shaft breaking the key or bearing issues from the lack of additional bearings such as the r26B which had a much different rotor timing phase pattern.

i will of course also have to modify a stat gear and center iron to accept the center bearing/gear much like the 20B has. but the engine will be peripheral ported so that it will be as short as possible to put the least amount of stress on the shaft. aiming for a naturally aspirated engine for now and for around 450-500whp and have that F1 car rediculous sound/rev happy motor. i would love to get a hold of 4 RX8 10:1 rotors but that may be a stretch for now as this is just going to be a test bed motor.

this will also be a good place to see if the megasquirt can do the job with it's diversity in applications.

i've wanted to do something to put this shop on the map for a while, hopefully i can dig up enough time to actually come through with it.

i will start by having the splines all equalateral to start with, so if there is any issue with the harmonics from timing i can disassemble, change the whole engine timing configuration, rebalance and reassemble(it may wind up that it will have to be 0*/180*/0*/180* if the counterweights cannot handle the job). i've got piles of housings, 9.4:1 rotors, irons, dowels(the whole block will be pinned full length also), stat gears and e-shafts so this won't cost much to build except for time until it comes time to modify the oil pump, create dry sump and fit the motor. it won't generate enough power to really need modifying the turbo drivetrain but i am going to be looking for a cheap TII roller to dump this thing into.

if this does in fact work i should be able to produce short blocks for in the neighborhood of $7k(dry sump/oil pump configuration will be up to the application though and not part of the cost).

this is nothing new and has been done, but i'm just continuing to do what i do best and steal other people's ideas and make them better!

now if i only was rich and had 3 months to waste..

 

now Mike's going to pop in and see this and freak out since he just picked up the 20B... lol

 

I've got a 1st gen you can throw it in :-D

 

On a side note it sounds like you have really put some thought into it. If anyone can do it, it's you Ben!

 

if it ever becomes a reality i will call it the RE26B.

 

i stacked together a shell to see what exactly i would be working with and to see just how enourmous of a beast the 26B would be and words can't describe it so here you go..



the next issue is i forgot about the back to back center stat gears to time the center 2 rotors so a modified double sided stat gear is going to have to be fabricated and cut down to size, circlipped and pinned to the center iron. doable, but not going to be as easy as i thought.

but this does give a better center support bearing than i originally had in my thoughts. the split in the shafts will reside between the 2 center bearings.

the irons are mis matched but even so it doesn't matter what gets used as the ports are going to be filled and Peripherals milled into the housings, i just grabbed whatever was in front of me to use as a basis for the size of the block and get a look at the shafts and where they will be positioned.

next i will have to figure out which stat gears i can modify to work for the center support. this would be much more easily doable with a 20B center iron but i will see if this is possible without it. it may require cutting down the length of each side of the center bearing and e-shaft bearing surface as the width of the iron is a little inadequate but still possibly workable.

edit: after putting 2 front stat gears back to back it most definitely will have to cut into the bearing surface for each side of the shaft by approximately 33%. i will see if the rear stat gears are more ideal for this application but it looks like i'm leaning more towards 2 front stat gear carriers cut down and sleeved to take up the larger gap in the center iron. i will also have to look at how the rotors will drain in the center by getting ideas from other modified irons(on second thought that is unecessary as the rotor cooling pockets are on the opposite side of the gear and will drain in the center of irons #2 and #4, phew).

hopefully my guesstimate is ok that i will not have to worry about oiling passages to the center iron as the oil flow path will put that as a drain channel. most of these ideas are basic ones i have been throwing around and will have to be put to practical thought by checking all of the passages visually. envisioning a split oil feed line to the rear of the engine and to the front, all oil will drain from the center iron/shaft and feed the front and back halves equally.

a turbo pump may not be sufficient even for a naturally aspirated 26B so i need to look at higher volume pumps or re-gearing the turbo pump and increasing the pressure, or possibly ditching all stock lubrication and go to a belt driven pump(trying to sway away from failure points though, i really do not like the idea of an external belt driven pump).

the center of the front shaft will have to be reamed out slightly to accomodate the through bolt that will run the length to the rear e-shaft to pull them together to still promote adequate oil flow, the splines will be taking all of the force so the bolt is just there to prevent any walking motions as the rear shaft would want to walk out to the point of colliding with the #4 iron center opening. my goal is to mill the splines directly into the shafts and heat treat so there will be no third party couplers to fail or fiddle with during assembly of the back half of the motor.

 

it looks kind of puny by the picture, i can tell you it's much more respectable in person. no more lifting a bare block by hand, more similarly sized to a mid range V8.

 

Damn, that looks beastly. I'm thinking you should call it the RE26BEN, that way there is no confusion that it's not just a 26B but yours lol

 

Hm. If you actually do this, I'll stop playing with the idea of dropping rotaries completely.

Oh BTW, Ben... I may need some of your help and expertise with Project Icemark...

 

the only question is whether it will be practical to produce them depending on the amount of time it takes to modify the shaft, stat gears and center iron.

let me know about Mark's car and i'll see if we can figure it out.

 

Well, if you do figure it out, we can build that 67 'stang we talked about several years ago...

Nah. I'd rather have that engine all up in my FD. I'd be fine keeping it totally NA and just cruising it at 9k rpms all the time. Or, stick it in a Factory5 DTM with a Porsche transmission...


Still planning on being in the area soon?

 

Nader are you going to buy the vert from Zach?

 

I don't think so. I would like to have the vert but it's not financially viable for me at the moment. Maybe if he still has it in a few months and I get a raise @ work...

 

still finishing up a few jobs here but will be soon to do the tuning in the bay.

 

I would have had it, but it wouldn't pass smog. :-(

 

Cool. I need in on that.


It failed visual. Just find a smog tech that doesn't care about visual.

 

Oh no it didn't... I put a factory cat on it. It passed visual it failed the sniffer all 3 times I tried and the first time it failed visual and sniffer

 

still running the megasquirt? try swapping in a stock ECU if he ran an adapter to the original connectors. he might have the timing advanced for low speed/idling versus the extremely retarded stock idle down/emissions feature.