would be usable but there is a spot on top out of frame that had chattered to the point of taking a 1X1" chunk of chrome off.

 

not from machining, from normal wear and tear of a high mile engine.

 

Damn Ben! Looks great! Too bad It took me sending my housings to Goopy to get you to proceed with this because sending mine to NY was a huge pain! $90 total in shipping! Next engine I build I'll send to you though you need to offer a peripheral porting service now

 

it's on my list but i don't do the service myself as racing beat has quite reasonable prices on modifying the rotor housings. of course i do have plans on working out the process on my own later on.

 

Involves epoxying shut some coolant passages right?

 

racing beat weld in the aluminum flanges so they are leak free, some people epoxy them in, some press them for a water tight seal. i would mill the tubes for an o-ring and mount them to the housing via the LIM mount studs. really depends if it is a true PP or a semi PP, a true PP won't be able to use the studs.

 

Interesting, cool stuff, its nice to see someone developing new products and services for these engines still

 

last test on another housing for regularity, resurfaced one with lower mileage but thinner walls from a TII. measured in 8 spots/4-5 positions at each spot around the housing surface with a straight edge.

before: .045mm runout
after: <.040mm runout

basically i do not have a gauge accurate enough to tell me exactly how true the surface is, there is no specification in the FSM but considering the housing i gauged at .045 was in good condition i would say they are good to go. closest i can come up with for an official figure is based off of the apex seal warpage allowable limit which is .060mm/2(2 apex seals face to face with one another), which is where the housings are at or close to now.

before:


after:


i just have to decide if i should blast the housings or not, will probably be on an as needed basis as i really prefer not to strip the coolant passages to raw aluminum even though it does transfer heat better.

 

knowing that i probably won't want to assemble engines anymore without resurfacing the housings i will add it to basic rebuild pricing for $200 additional with the rebuilds.

of course that will put me over the budget rebuild prices some others offer but eh, i'm tired of being cheap. quality costs a little more. no more average compression high mileage rebuilds, they all will have good compression. of course premixing will almost be a necessity though as the chrome will be thinned out depending on the mileage of the housings.

 

Or you can use the RA OMP adapter like me and have a 2 stroke tank

 

well, not to get you too worried but if you look at the previous rotor housings you can follow the groove in the rotor housing and match it directly to the oil injection port. basically this small area in the center of the apex seal doesn't wear as much. premixing is superior IMO as it lubricates everything equally. perhaps 2 stroke oil isn't quite as bad.

 

Is that because two stroke has lower viscosity and surface tension vs. modern engine oils? Meaning that it would have a tendency to spread more evenly across the housing surface as opposed to clustering in a narrow band like what you mentioned?

I.e., would a drop of 2 stroke "spread" more readily?

 

Hmm, well I hope it works haha

 

2 stroke oil won't burn and be evacuated as readily so it has more of a chance to spred through the chamber conventional oils basically turn to carbon in the chamber, 2 stroke oil won't.

key west is nice this time of year by the way.

 

i'm back now, felt like the vacation was too short and cost too much. i sort of miss living in florida yet not, sweating in 85F temps.

 

sounds like a nice trip!

 

yeah it was cool, even though i didn't drink enough to even really get a buzz.. not that i had to to enjoy it.

from the patio of our 4 bedroom rental house

off the catamaran

this crab came up to our boatdock looking for some beer(strangely enough his pincer was perfect size for the beverage)

a lonely island on the trip home


NSFW!

 

Started the car today! first try!

unfortunately there is a fuel leak so I had to shut it off once I noticed it 10 min later... I did the pulsation dampener delete so I think its coming from that area, the fuel runs down the rear iron so that's why I think its that area.

 

Congrats Preston

 

Thanks Jake, it was from the pulsation dampener delete, I used a "oil and gas SAFE" thread sealer that got compromised, so I pulled every thing and just used the Teflon tape and now its all good except my high idle.

 

TPS is adjusted and now idles great! throwing some codes now though, Knock sensor, intake thermosensor, throttle sensor (full range), throttle sensor (narrow range), and fuel thermosensor, I could have swore all of those sensors were connected...

 

If you adjusted your throttle sensor properly it shouldn't throw codes. Just a guess...

 

ya I think it stored the codes from me running the car before it being adjusted so I cleared them and they havent come back yet, the car now has about 300 miles on it

 

Nice dude, good job! The break in period is probably a tough one. haha

 

Thanks, any FB love or what? the only reason why the break in wont be too bad is cause the next track day at thunder hill isnt til august