man im seriously about to just sell my FC
^^^LOL
That intake looks like they may have used a chain around it to yank the motor and you just finished it off.
IF the motor cranked one time then it won't strat again try the ATF in the spark plug holes to increase the compression and make duobly sure that the battery is fully charged so that the motor is cranking fast.
The rebuild websites say to have your idle set high for when it starts you can leave it running while you adjust. Also you need to allow it to run for quite some time to allow all that stuff to seat. Kevin Landers claims that he allowes some to idle in the driveway for up to four hours. Lest that is the way I read it. When I got mine started after the rebuild I did the same thing. peeps criticized me for it......but what did it hurt?
When you started it and it died immediatly that is the first step to a **** load of starting problems...just like you describe. You may have to push start it with another car dragging it with a strap or pushing it fast or going downhill to get that motor turning over quickly.
This is stuff I "heard" in the second Gen...I have not had to do any of that as of yet.
I would first check the way you have the ignition stabbed....what is that thing called?? CAS? Crank angle sensor.........OK, distributor for those over 40....Seems a lot of people get that thing in wrong and the car is timed horribly. remember when you are stabbing it, it turns while it is going in and contacting that other gear on the crank so you have to back it off a hiar so that when it turns that little bit it actually lines up properly
All this **** is just a suggestion and you need to consult the manual because I am not the one that is considered an expert.
That intake looks like they may have used a chain around it to yank the motor and you just finished it off.
IF the motor cranked one time then it won't strat again try the ATF in the spark plug holes to increase the compression and make duobly sure that the battery is fully charged so that the motor is cranking fast.
The rebuild websites say to have your idle set high for when it starts you can leave it running while you adjust. Also you need to allow it to run for quite some time to allow all that stuff to seat. Kevin Landers claims that he allowes some to idle in the driveway for up to four hours. Lest that is the way I read it. When I got mine started after the rebuild I did the same thing. peeps criticized me for it......but what did it hurt?
When you started it and it died immediatly that is the first step to a **** load of starting problems...just like you describe. You may have to push start it with another car dragging it with a strap or pushing it fast or going downhill to get that motor turning over quickly.
This is stuff I "heard" in the second Gen...I have not had to do any of that as of yet.
I would first check the way you have the ignition stabbed....what is that thing called?? CAS? Crank angle sensor.........OK, distributor for those over 40....Seems a lot of people get that thing in wrong and the car is timed horribly. remember when you are stabbing it, it turns while it is going in and contacting that other gear on the crank so you have to back it off a hiar so that when it turns that little bit it actually lines up properly
All this **** is just a suggestion and you need to consult the manual because I am not the one that is considered an expert.
hmmmm.. why dont you read your post again "3 X my $400" 

Originally Posted by RE TurboII
...get it fixed and sell it for more than your 3x's more than your 400 bucks
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Last edited by Siraniko; Oct 11, 2005 at 05:32 PM.
ok heres the deal for some reason i tried cranking it again and held it for about 10 seconds then all of a sudden it cranked over. sounds like a lawn mower but then it dies after about 3 seconds. all my vacuum lines are hooked up. could it be my firing order or could my injector plugging still be mixed up?
its funny how you just brought up the price issue all over again when thats already old ****. so what if i get hasty with you get out of my thread. im not looking for ppl to talk **** and think their better than everyone else. im trying to get some help to fix my car. i wonder now if all 3000 of your posts are talking **** to ppl. blame your dumb *** for getting involved in something your not needed in
Restab the CAS, check for vaccum leaks in the TID/Intake, make sure that your fuel pump is clicking on. you should be able to hear it. If you have spark and fuel, it's going to be a vaccum leak. Just keep ******* with it. get that bitch running...we need more rotaries on the road.
Originally Posted by RE TurboII
its funny how you just brought up the price issue all over again when thats already old ****. so what if i get hasty with you get out of my thread. im not looking for ppl to talk **** and think their better than everyone else. im trying to get some help to fix my car. i wonder now if all 3000 of your posts are talking **** to ppl. blame your dumb *** for getting involved in something your not needed in
now I know why your car aint running. its not the parts. Its you that has a problem dumb-***.
Continue talking **** to me and I will do the same. I got nothing else better to do.
RE Turbo........just go along with Wacky.....he is gonna jack your *** until you we all start crying. Some with laughter.
Try to restab the CAS and make sure it is right. Then squirt the ATF fluid. Then make sure the idle is set up high and start that thing again. Make sure the CAS is loose so you can adjust it immediatly. If it sounds like a lawn mower, the timing may be way off
Is there a way to stab the CAS 180 degrees out on a rotary? Somebody that knows something will have to give you a straight answer, cause on a rotary I am just not sure. Understand with piston engines it is almost the #1 reason why a person can't get a rebuild to start. YOu would not believe how many times I've asked that question (is the distributor 180 degrees out) and a respectable mechanic switchs it for the sake of trying everything and the motor cranks right up.
Try to restab the CAS and make sure it is right. Then squirt the ATF fluid. Then make sure the idle is set up high and start that thing again. Make sure the CAS is loose so you can adjust it immediatly. If it sounds like a lawn mower, the timing may be way off
Is there a way to stab the CAS 180 degrees out on a rotary? Somebody that knows something will have to give you a straight answer, cause on a rotary I am just not sure. Understand with piston engines it is almost the #1 reason why a person can't get a rebuild to start. YOu would not believe how many times I've asked that question (is the distributor 180 degrees out) and a respectable mechanic switchs it for the sake of trying everything and the motor cranks right up.





