West RX-7 Forum Serving California, Nevada, Arizona, Hawaii

fml...need suggestions

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Mar 16, 2010 | 12:01 AM
  #1  
Marck's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 10 Years
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 712
Likes: 0
From: Milpitas, California
CA fml...need suggestions

so when i tried to tighten my lateral link it didn't go up all the way. I found that when i was trying to torque it, it stripped the half the bolt and part like 1/3 of the stud and now i dont know what to do. the original bolt wont go in and yeah i dont wanna drive without the bolt cus its makes a awful loud clank. any help would be appreciated.
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2010 | 12:50 AM
  #2  
Apex944's Avatar
Technician
Tenured Member 15 Years
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento, CA
New lateral link is about all you can do.

You do mean this part, correct?

https://www.rx7club.com/showthread.php?p=8827604
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2010 | 01:00 AM
  #3  
Marck's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 10 Years
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 712
Likes: 0
From: Milpitas, California
no not that part the other side. i was thinking if i can remove the lateral link itself maybe i can rethread the bolt and get a new nut? what do you think apex?
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2010 | 02:06 AM
  #4  
Apex944's Avatar
Technician
Tenured Member 15 Years
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento, CA
Originally Posted by Marck
no not that part the other side. i was thinking if i can remove the lateral link itself maybe i can rethread the bolt and get a new nut? what do you think apex?
You could possibly repair it, but it all depends on how much thread is left on the bolt.

If you repair it will there be any good thread's for the new nut to screw onto?
If there will only be a few good thread's left after the repair and none of them stick out past the nut when it's tightened down I would suggest a new lateral link.
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2010 | 02:15 AM
  #5  
Marck's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 10 Years
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 712
Likes: 0
From: Milpitas, California
alright thanks what could i use to possibly remove the bar itself? i checked the FSM like you said last time and my haynes and they say to use a Brass punch which i dont have and cant afford. Is there another way to remove both with regular basic tools?
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2010 | 02:21 AM
  #6  
Howru's Avatar
I
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (25)
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 651
Likes: 1
From: Vallejo, CA
I've used a 1/2" extension and and a hammer. Make sure you hit it straight, not at an angle and mess up the threads.
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2010 | 02:22 AM
  #7  
Marck's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 10 Years
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 712
Likes: 0
From: Milpitas, California
got it thanks! how about the other side? does it just bolt off?
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2010 | 02:32 AM
  #8  
Howru's Avatar
I
Tenured Member: 20 Years
iTrader: (25)
 
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 651
Likes: 1
From: Vallejo, CA
Take it out the same way -- remove bolt, pop off link. It's a rod with a ball joint on each end.
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2010 | 03:53 AM
  #9  
rotary#10's Avatar
Vodak
Tenured Member: 20 Years
Liked
Loved
Community Favorite
iTrader: (38)
 
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 883
Likes: 49
From: Oakland, CALI = O
ill be doing the same really soon.
Reply
Old Mar 16, 2010 | 07:15 PM
  #10  
Marck's Avatar
Thread Starter
Rotary Enthusiast
Tenured Member 10 Years
iTrader: (2)
 
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 712
Likes: 0
From: Milpitas, California
is it possible to run on one lateral link? or should i remove both cus its not popping out and i need to drive to school maybe i can jb weld it to the sub frame?
Reply
Old Mar 17, 2010 | 02:07 AM
  #11  
Apex944's Avatar
Technician
Tenured Member 15 Years
iTrader: (10)
 
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 369
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento, CA
Originally Posted by Marck
is it possible to run on one lateral link? or should i remove both cus its not popping out and i need to drive to school maybe i can jb weld it to the sub frame?
They are there for a reason so I wouldn't try to drive it with only one or neither of them on the car.

IIRC, they help keep the rear toe in-line thus why Super Now lateral link's are adjustable to set the rear toe. Without them I can see the rear tire's toeing in really bad while driving and handle like ****.

Just look at how the rear trailing arm's are connected to the car and you can see how the rear tire's might react after removing one or both of them. The small sway bar type link that connects to the inner trailing arm and subframe my extend back due to the lateral link being gone and cause the tire's to possibly swing out about 2 inche's or so causing massive toe in.

I've never done it so it's all just an educated guess from seeing how the rear trailing arm's are connected.
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
93FD510
New Member RX-7 Technical
2
Oct 1, 2015 02:00 PM
baix2
Power FC Forum
1
Sep 28, 2015 09:40 AM
lnlreaper
2nd Generation Specific (1986-1992)
2
Sep 27, 2015 09:59 AM
Broke_A_Baller
Race Car Tech
8
Sep 24, 2015 09:27 PM




All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:53 AM.