FD7KiD

iTrader: (8)

ok so i just got done changing out the old water pump housing and one on the sensors (black small round one) behind the Water Pump housing snapped off from the wires well anyways i put everything back together with new hardware and gaskets and paint job but the car dose not seem to want to start well not fully turn on and drive hopefully that makes sense

so do you think because of that one snapped off sensor is the problem??

FD7KiD

iTrader: (8)

ok so i think i found out what the real problem is i didnt align the Crank Angle Sensor when i took it off or when i put it back in is there any way to aline these back other than the markings on the eccentric shaft pulley because i painted over them like a dumbass....... i know you use the pin thats right on top of it and as for the crank angle sensor itself you align the matching marks on the sensor housing and driven gear i need your help on this seriously.

iLikeEatPoo

iTrader: (6)

Why did you remove your CAS to replace the water pump? Just set the timing back to TDC and it will be fine.

Apex944

iTrader: (10)

Search, how to set the CAS has been talked about numerous time's on here as well as you can read the FSM which explains very clearly how to set the CAS.

/End thread

rotary#10

iTrader: (38)

WTH! you broke the water thermo sensor ? LOL you sound like me when Im working on my car! But a bad or disconnected water thermo sensor ( behind water pump) will flood your car out! Happened to me a few weeks back, but it was disconnected from driving too hard. LOL So I ended up replacing it anyways. Unflooded it and drove it to work like normal.
Get a Haynes manual for simple things like setting the CAS and timing.

funkjaw

iTrader: (3)

Yeah that thermo sensor being busted will cause it to have hard start problems. I know when mine went bad it would sometimes take 2 mins of cranking for it to start up in the morning.

FD7KiD

iTrader: (8)

i do have it and it only helped me to a point i centered the pulley to the leading mark with the pointy thing thats right on top. and because i took out the CAS/Distributer (and forgot to mark it) i also centered it to the dot, because it was flooded with gas i took out the leading spark plugs and the EGI COMP. & EGI INJ. sensors and cranked it so it will blow out the gas fumes from the engine to de-flood it, put the sensors back in along with new leading spark plugs, my battery seems like its going to die out i got my moms car with the jumper cables connected to my FC pretty much everything everything has been put back except that the CAS is not adjusted in perfect position and the water temp sensor(female) behind the housing is snapped off from the wire even after all this my car sounds better than it was before but it dose not want to start all the way so i guess my timing is still off........

maybe ill resoter it since it still gives me less than a centimeter of copper left to play with....and hopefully that will cure it.....all the gauges work except the water temp but i think that because the car isnt warm enough to make the meter go up...

so what do you guys think????

iLikeEatPoo

iTrader: (6)

You don't gotta take out the spark plugs. Just pull the EGI and crank.

FD7KiD

iTrader: (8)

less work good idea

FD7KiD

iTrader: (8)

ok so i got the car to work after i soldering the that one sensor to the wire and plugging it to the housing and adjusting the CAS to get me closer to cranking all the way but im not too sure if i have the timeing right on the money so im going to take it to Fast Freddys on thursday so they can do it for me i spoke with NICK the guy who runs the joint and he said he would do for $40 but i have ran into another problem dose anyone have a gooseneck they are selling cause i just discovered mine has a crack and its leaking like a fat wino in the alley. just in case you dont know what im talking about there are pics for your viewing

funkjaw

iTrader: (3)

If you can't find one off the board just go to the junkyard and grab one.

FD7KiD

iTrader: (8)

thats if there are any FC left in the junk yard worst case scenario im just going to shell out $75 at mazdatrix and get to aluminum one oh and FYI im looking for a 89-91 goose neck guys

iLikeEatPoo

iTrader: (6)

you can plastic weld it or JB weld it.

FD7KiD

iTrader: (8)

serious **** you can cause i have JB weld in my tool box i tried putting some permatex gasket maker on close but no cigar.

iLikeEatPoo

iTrader: (6)

Yes it will. Check the temp rating on the tube.

FD7KiD

iTrader: (8)

dude that sounds like money being saved but can i JB it from the inside of the tube???

starting line

iTrader: (2)

just grab one or buy one, dont bother JB welding it. do the job right or don't do it at all.

rotary#10

iTrader: (38)

Spoken like a true rotorhead!

FD7KiD

iTrader: (8)

you know what ill just go buy a new one from mazdatrix has anyone gotten the aluminum one yet?? wondering if it will be better than the OEM plastic one

iLikeEatPoo

iTrader: (6)

Everyone knows plastic retains less heat then metal.

FD7KiD

iTrader: (8)

but metal retains less cracking than plastic which is my problem right now

FD7KiD

iTrader: (8)

oh my ******* life its not starting again,,,,,,,,,,,,,, not enough juice to power up ******* alternator and new battery must be **** right about now... its like having a really ******* hot girlfriend with a high sex drive but wont give you any.............

SmogSUX

iTrader: (12)

Put 2% milk in the gas tank. Makes my rotary start every time!

FD7KiD

iTrader: (8)

serious **** brah im not kidding

SmogSUX

iTrader: (12)

I'm srs BRAH that **** is LEGIT ask anyone