without inspecting the motor first hand, i couldn't tell you what happened...

was it the front or rear rotor bearing?
what parts were used in the motor?
single or dual oil coolers?
did you or the builder flush the oiling system?
what happened to tne previous motor? (if it ate a bearing and the system wasn't cleaned, of course it'll eat the new bearings)

you don't have to spend obscene amounts of money on getting a good engine built. i've built a few motors using all spare parts from my garage (ALL spare parts, including used seals) that are still running to this day. spending more money on good parts is a great thing when you're milking the thing for power, but a stock rebuild (like karack said) can handle 400+ hp with ease.

i'm not saying to skimp on the rebuild--get a good rebuild done. but spend the extra $$$ you would have sunk into the motor alone on upgrading the rest of the system. dual big oil coolers, radiator, intercooler, clean the injectors, etc etc etc... you might have some or all of that stuff done already, but i think you get the point.

 

i really just want a street port should i just get a reman and then bring it somewhere 4 a street port?

 

can you get pics of what the motor looks like now? maybe it can be rebuilt.

but if you're gonna get a $2500+ reman, might as well just get a j-spec, since it'll need to be rebuilt to port it anyway. then you get to sell off the turbos, manifolds, etc and make some of the money back.

 

i can get the pics thay sent me later on today i no it will need a rotor, oil pump ,New Eccentric Shaft 1Lapped Side Housing 1 new housing
Engine Gasket Sets and Water Seals

 

You can tell thay never lapped it from when i got this motor. You can see there is old wear on the parts. Guess thay would save money that way.

 

actually, lapping isn't really a good thing unless the plates are re-coated. it scratches off the coating and makes them wear 10x as fast.

what i've been doing with recent motors is buzzing them with 600-800 grit (not enough to kill the coating--just to knock off most of the glaze) and applying a dry-film lubricant that has to be buffed in. not only increases efficiency slightly, but they burn less oil.

 

I will try to get the pics up so you can tell me what u think also thanks for the help. do u build you own motors?

 

yep

 

picshttps://www.rx7club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=&stc=1https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=&stc=1https://www.rx7club.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=&stc=1

 

standard "spun a bearing but kept driving anyway" syndrome.
now the question is: why?

oil pressure the whole time?
what do the needle bearings and thrust plates look like?

 

These are the only pics they sent me and i have not got the motor back yet.

 

how many miles did you say this motor had on it?

 

nit even 3000

 

was not even in boost yet oil was change

 

oil pressure was good at all times.

 

and the stationary bearings and other rotor bearing were fine?

 

i would do the motor my self i called a mazda dealership today a motor would cost 2750 with my core. How would a reman be with a single turbo?

 

depends on how big.
power would be fine, but spoolup depends a lot on porting.

 

GT35R That port job look right to you?

 

depends on if its a t3 or t4 35r.
port opens too early for a t3 gt35r, but sould be fine for a t4 based.

all in all, the portwork (just from what i can see) doesn't look bad. could be a bit cleaner, but that's mainly aesthetics. but before i gave you a real opinion, i'd have to get a bunch of pics anyway.

if your turbo has a t3 hotside, i'd back off on the overlap if you're running anything over 13-14 psi.