2mm vs 3mm
Just my 2 cents here. From my understanding 3 mm seals are used widely to help combat detonation. Running 3 mm over 2 mm seals for things like running high boost doesn't seem the common use, at least directly. In the end it all comes down to tuning and your setup. 3 mm wont stop your motor for getting blown due to a bad tune, but could help if you're tuning or have a fairly inexperienced tuner.
3mm seals are not insurance against a poorly-tuned motor. Detonation will put a dent in your rotor. I have my old rotor to prove it. But my 2mm seals were still intact.
Go with 2mm.
I don't recommend Rick's. He knows he's got the most popular rotary shop in the Bay Area, and he takes full advantage of that fact.
You'll remember I said this when you get the surprise bill.
Here's an example:
The last time I was there, he charged me $128 for switching out my stock fuel pump with my Supra pump. I've personally swapped out my fuel pumps 4 times, and I can do it in under 10 minutes. If I'd known he was going to charge me $128 for 10 minutes of labor, I would have just done it myself before leaving my car at his shop!
NEVER again....
Go with 2mm.
I don't recommend Rick's. He knows he's got the most popular rotary shop in the Bay Area, and he takes full advantage of that fact.
You'll remember I said this when you get the surprise bill.
Here's an example:
The last time I was there, he charged me $128 for switching out my stock fuel pump with my Supra pump. I've personally swapped out my fuel pumps 4 times, and I can do it in under 10 minutes. If I'd known he was going to charge me $128 for 10 minutes of labor, I would have just done it myself before leaving my car at his shop!
NEVER again....
If you're going to spend money on cryo treated apex seals, just fork out the cash for ceramics. 
Other than that, use stock apex seals. Mazda seems to run them in their own engine. 
Other than that, use stock apex seals. Mazda seems to run them in their own engine.
3mm for safety buffer and >500WHP, wears engine quicker and produces more heat. more for racing applications than for daily street driving.
2mm for <500WHP cars, less wear for longer engine life, more susceptible to breaking in cases of tuning offsets. better for daily driving but not as safe as 3mm for high HP cars.
if you decide to mill the rotors for 3mm seals i have already had a shop setup the tooling to machine rotors and is WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYY less than that ripoff that rick charges at what? $800 to mill them?
cost is $75 per rotor, info is:
S+S Machine
(916)771-0201
9334 Viking Place
Roseville, Ca., 95747
just tell them you need a rotor milled for a rotary engine. it's a standard 3mm slot. you may even want it milled to 3.05mm because the tolerance i was seeing is a little on the tight side.
and don't forget who referred you and had to go through the development with this company to get it done right. they do have some of the best work ethics of any company i have ever dealt with which is why i feel confident in giving this info out.
2mm for <500WHP cars, less wear for longer engine life, more susceptible to breaking in cases of tuning offsets. better for daily driving but not as safe as 3mm for high HP cars.
if you decide to mill the rotors for 3mm seals i have already had a shop setup the tooling to machine rotors and is WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYY less than that ripoff that rick charges at what? $800 to mill them?
cost is $75 per rotor, info is:
S+S Machine
(916)771-0201
9334 Viking Place
Roseville, Ca., 95747
just tell them you need a rotor milled for a rotary engine. it's a standard 3mm slot. you may even want it milled to 3.05mm because the tolerance i was seeing is a little on the tight side.
and don't forget who referred you and had to go through the development with this company to get it done right. they do have some of the best work ethics of any company i have ever dealt with which is why i feel confident in giving this info out.
3mm for safety buffer and >500WHP, wears engine quicker and produces more heat. more for racing applications than for daily street driving.
2mm for <500WHP cars, less wear for longer engine life, more susceptible to breaking in cases of tuning offsets. better for daily driving but not as safe as 3mm for high HP cars.
if you decide to mill the rotors for 3mm seals i have already had a shop setup the tooling to machine rotors and is WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYY less than that ripoff that rick charges at what? $800 to mill them?
cost is $75 per rotor, info is:
S+S Machine
(916)771-0201
9334 Viking Place
Roseville, Ca., 95747
just tell them you need a rotor milled for a rotary engine. it's a standard 3mm slot. you may even want it milled to 3.05mm because the tolerance i was seeing is a little on the tight side.
and don't forget who referred you and had to go through the development with this company to get it done right. they do have some of the best work ethics of any company i have ever dealt with which is why i feel confident in giving this info out.
2mm for <500WHP cars, less wear for longer engine life, more susceptible to breaking in cases of tuning offsets. better for daily driving but not as safe as 3mm for high HP cars.
if you decide to mill the rotors for 3mm seals i have already had a shop setup the tooling to machine rotors and is WAYYYYYYYYYYYYYY less than that ripoff that rick charges at what? $800 to mill them?
cost is $75 per rotor, info is:
S+S Machine
(916)771-0201
9334 Viking Place
Roseville, Ca., 95747
just tell them you need a rotor milled for a rotary engine. it's a standard 3mm slot. you may even want it milled to 3.05mm because the tolerance i was seeing is a little on the tight side.
and don't forget who referred you and had to go through the development with this company to get it done right. they do have some of the best work ethics of any company i have ever dealt with which is why i feel confident in giving this info out.
3mm seals are not insurance against a poorly-tuned motor. Detonation will put a dent in your rotor. I have my old rotor to prove it. But my 2mm seals were still intact.
Go with 2mm.
I don't recommend Rick's. He knows he's got the most popular rotary shop in the Bay Area, and he takes full advantage of that fact.
You'll remember I said this when you get the surprise bill.
Here's an example:
The last time I was there, he charged me $128 for switching out my stock fuel pump with my Supra pump. I've personally swapped out my fuel pumps 4 times, and I can do it in under 10 minutes. If I'd known he was going to charge me $128 for 10 minutes of labor, I would have just done it myself before leaving my car at his shop!
NEVER again....
Go with 2mm.
I don't recommend Rick's. He knows he's got the most popular rotary shop in the Bay Area, and he takes full advantage of that fact.
You'll remember I said this when you get the surprise bill.
Here's an example:
The last time I was there, he charged me $128 for switching out my stock fuel pump with my Supra pump. I've personally swapped out my fuel pumps 4 times, and I can do it in under 10 minutes. If I'd known he was going to charge me $128 for 10 minutes of labor, I would have just done it myself before leaving my car at his shop!
NEVER again....
Have you ever heard of swapping the Fc fuel pump with the FD fuel pump?
if you're on a stock injectors, you should be good til about 300hp. you should go walbro or supra tt pump if you plan to do more. just to be safe. no sense in leaning out just to save a couple bucks
Hmm. Good to know. Do the the supra pump or walbro pump require mods?