I currently need a daily driver car. I have 2 Z32's but niether of them are my daily drivers really. I need a good reiliable car that can handle a lot fo miles. I am considering a pretty nice 88 convertible. It needs a new top and the hood has some hail damage. The trans also whines a little. I once owned a 86 GXL and liked it. What i am wanting to know if i can take the motor and transmission out of a Turbo II and put it in the convertible since there were never any turbo convertibles made. How hard would it be and how much would it costs. I can get the car like it is now for about $1750 I was wondering how much a top for this car is. I also want to know how much the turbo II engine and trans will cost to buy and to have installed. Would the car be reliable? i have to have a car that is reliable and that can handle the miles. I have seed the turbos with over 200k on them so i know they are cars. so what do you think?

Thanks
Shawn Watson

 

Well, first off let me say that someone desperately neds to make this topic a FAQ at the top of teh 2nd gen specific page or something. Nothing personal but this gets asked about 3 times per day in here, and even though the answer is simple it gets old repeating it. Not anything against not knowing, 3 years ago I asked myself when I didnt kow. Maybe this should be added to the archive.

Now, there are 2 ways to do this.

Basic minimum, using your existing NA drivetrain.
t2 engine(preferably for your year of car)
t2 engine wiring harness for your year of car
t2 boost sensor
t2 knock control box
t2 ecu for your year of car
t2 accelerator cable
t2 hood(unless using FMIC)
t2 downpipe/precat, and exhaust modification

use the NA flywheel and drivetrain. A strong NA racing clutch is required to use the NA drivetrain.

2) the right way, using t2 drivetrain.
all the above plus:
t2 trans
flywheel
starter
clutch parts
driveshaft
t2 lsd
t2 halfshafts

 

I believe the '86-'88 cars need to have the dash wiring harness swapped out in addition to the engine harness.

I'll archive this thread if it's inactive by Sunday night.

 

Rather than do the whole engine as detailed above, I'd think you'd probably be better off buying an add on turbo kit. I do remember seeing a kit offered by Cartech I think, but that was in the early 90's-- don't know if they're still around.

Certainly can understand the desire for more power with the styling of a vert though....

I think that's going to be a lot of work....

Greg O.

 

Talk to Brad one of the Moderators here hes doing just that type of project. His nick is RX7_Ragtop ... I think.

 

I'm pretty sure that I answered a similar thread a week or two ago.

 

I found the link. Wow I've posted ALOT in the last few weeks.
https://www.rx7club.com/vforums/show...threadid=29405

 

I would add a few comments to this, but basically it's correct.

First, you need either a TII fuel pump or an aftermarket one. I suggest the aftermarket one, and here's why:

When you first complete the project, you'll think, "Damn, this is one fast 'vert..." BUT... later, the "more power" bug is gonna bite... and to go very far on a TII you need an aftermarket pump. Just go ahead and buy the Walbro 255 or whatever now, instead of buying it later after you already bought the TII one.

Second, don't forget the clutch slave cylinder. It IS different.

Third, while the stock drivetrain MAY hold up for a while, if you have a heavy right foot, you'll make small metal chunks out of big ones pretty fast- especially if the tranny is already noisy. Also, the differential on a 88 'vert is a 3.909 open differential, instead of the 4.10 limited-slip in the TII.

Fourth, (and related to the third point!) it is easier to swap the entire rear subframe assembly with the diff and axles all assembled than to do it in pieces. I can drop a subframe in 30 minutes or so, not counting removing the exhaust. (It took me 45 the first time... but now I know what to do.)

I discussed this project with Chris at RP at the club dyno day a few weeks back. First, he asked why I wasn't done yet! It's a cool swap. One of the other club guys has an 89+ with a ported motor, putting 325 to the wheels on a stock (TII) ECU. The 89+ cars are easier since the dash harness is the same for a TII, NA coupe, or 'vert. On the 88 'vert (or NA coupe) you have to add a couple of wires or replace the harness per Chris. He says about 30 minutes of work to add the wires (as opposed to HOURS of frustration replacing that whole damned dash harness!!!) so it probably isn't too bad.

I have all the drivetrain parts, but still no motor unfortunately... and honestly right now nowhere to do the swap- hopefully that will change next month.

 

Shawn,

Bare minimum you'll want to upgrade the drive axel, transmission, rear axel, etc... to handle the additional torque and HP.

Yeah the 86-88 convertible engines do last a very long time, so that's a big plus.

Actually the are Savanna TII convertibles in Japan, but your right none in the US

 

I paid $800 to have the top replaced on my 88 'vert.

 

Hey Brad, do you have an entire rear subrame assembly ready to install? If so, how did you find one or where did you get it?

I'm seriously considering this swap for my '89, and I have a place to do it, I just don't have a place for a wrecked Turbo II donor car.

I'm just trying to get ideas on what the most efficient way to gather parts would be.

 

I'm sorry, I must have missed it.

 

Actually yeah there were... Lots in Japan...

and one in America.. And i have it..
the only Savannah Turbo II powered Convertible in the states!

Mu hu ha ha ha

 

Post a picture of it. I thought the only right hand drive, imported from Japan turbo convertible is the one owned by Philip Hardebeck in Woodstock, Georgia.

Here it is...

 

BTW, I think that wing looks very very sharp on that convertible. I may have to get one for mine. Hopefully I can find one somewhere.

 

Thanks Brad, I knew about the fuel pump but forgot it. Good catch.

As for the dash harness, why do you modify/swap that? I realize the stock t2 gage cluster will not read boost via the NA wiring harness(ask me how I know) but why bother, when most guys with t2s get an aftermarket gage adn swap to an NA cluster with the voltage reading anyway. The stock t2 gage is useless. So aside from this, why modify the dash harness.

And yes, I concede that the best way to do the swap is the entire driveline. But, if youre just gonna hve a mainly stock t2 motor, and dont plan on doing any drag racing/hard launches where youll be likely to break ****, I still think the NA drivetrain will hold its own. A stock or near stock t2 motor is only 40-60hp more than its NA counterpart. I dont think thats enough to break ****, assuming it was in decent condition to begin with. Now if you plan on doing 5000rpm launches then I would go for th t2 driveline.

BTW, Ive done an NA-t2 swap using what I listed above, and the t2 fuel pump. this is how I know.

My last point...Brad, how is the t2 slave different from the NA slave? Can you provide pics?

I have both a t2 slave and an NA slave sitting downstairs, side by side. They are identical. I can take pics for you or anyone else who would like. I put a t2 slave on an NA transmission, which is another way I know.

Think about it, why does the addition of more horsepower of a t2 motor necessitate a different clutch slave cylinder, which has zero to do with holding power?

Ive still got respect for you Brad, Im just relating my experiences on the subject. If Im proven wrong Ill certainly admit it and correct my future replies

 

Stock TII makes more torque at 1500rpms than stock NAs peak torque; Torque causes trans. to fail not HP. This will especially be bad in a convertable w/ its extra weight putting a load on the trans. If you buy a J-spec you often have the oportunity to buy the trans. cheaply w/ engine...

 

Id like to see some numbers or charts to prove that statement. I dont see how that can be, because a turbo has lower compression rotors than an NA, which means, correct me if im wrong, when its off boost (which you dont have much of at 1500rpm), that the t2 engine makes less low end power than the NA engine makes. OF course, the t2 will make better torque than the NA after about 3000rpm.

Ive heard the statement made before that a 350 v8 makes more torque at idle than a rotary does at peak, and that was proven very untrue...this sounds moe like that too.

 

My old sport bike made more torque at 3000 RPM's than any 600 did at peak. :p Well, it was a 1200, but still...

Okay, while I wouldn't swap in a turbo engine without the rest of the drivetrain, if you don't launch the car like a maniac or bang hard through the gears the box should hold up just fine.

Yeah, you have more torque going through it, but that torque alone isn't going to destroy the transmission unless you introduce a little undue stress to it.

 

Before you guys get too bogged down in comparing numbers and the old TII conversion into N/A cars again, let me clarify that Japan is not the only place to obtain a TII convertible.
Europe had them also and the steering wheel was in the "correct" place outside of Great Britain imports of course. The parts you can get in Europe are pretty neat for these cars.
Tops installed go anywhere from $800-1300 depending on where you go. That's for vinyl. Sunfast canvas like on European Convertibles or Haartz canvas is even more!
Ralf
88 Vert

 

Too bad one of us couldnt find a good used one from over there. No cats too in most European countries, right? I know shipping would be really high, but too have one of those factory on American soil would be GREAT!

 

I bought a mostly-stripped TII for a donor. I kept the transmission, front a-arms (gave them to someone) entire rear subframe, hood (gave to someone) wheels (gave to someone- I think he's on here... ) fenders and nosecap (went on my car to repair damage...) driveshaft (really need a new one though- it doesn't feel as smooth as it should when you move the u-joints) seats (gave them to someone) rear speaker box things from the shock towers, all 4 struts, all 4 brake setups, front swaybar, steering wheel (gave to someone) crossmember for tranny, and manual steering rack.

I COULD have probably made money on all those parts- I bought the car for $600... but I would rather help someone out.

(Ok, now don't start sending messages asking for stuff, got it guys? These were all DFW club members except the a-arms and steering wheel... and they were to guys I have known on the FC3S mailing list for a long time... and I've gotten rid of everything that I want to get rid of, except the speaker surrounds... I just thought someone could use those.)

Took me most of a weekend to get all that off... then I had to pay $65 to have it taken to the crusher... and got about $30 out of it based on weight.

Brad

 

Kevin,

I also COULD be wrong. BUT... the part numbers are different. I believe the bolt holes are a bit different.

In fact... from the Mazdatrix website:

86-92 All non-turbo 41-920A-FB01
86-92 All Turbo 41-920C-F044

Note the different part numbers.

Brad