I think we might as well get an idea of what times V8 converted cars are running, whether they're SAs, FCs, FDs, or any other originally rotary powered car. So if you're got a timeslip, post it here!

 

http://www.torquecentral.com/forumdisplay.php?f=11

 

Well, yeah, a lot more people go there.

 

Uh... 13s with really, really mild v8s, MAYBE a 14 flat. 12s with anything on the fast side of a LT1, and from there the sky is the limit.

One guy with a TT 351W in a FB was well into the single digits, and the fastest one that I know the specifics of was a FC with a 383 cid v8 on the stock rear with slicks that ran a 9.42 with a 1.3 60' time.

Dragtimes are only half of the appeal, however - a FC with coilovers, DTSS bushings, good tires and a v8 is like a gokart on steroids, even if its an iron block. Kukri with a healthy 355 (a honed out 350...) out autocrossed a STi, Z06, and then ran a low 12 with a crappy launch coasting through the traps because he freaked out (first time on the track).

FD's are even more yummy, except if you use a torque arm you might end up having to do a little more work than you thought... check out TC for the bitchfest between Jimlab and Hinson

Personally, I might end up doing a ford 2.3 turbo swap, but only because I want to be as cheap as it can be, yet still be fast as hell

 

Cool, I'm most likely going to do an LS1 swap, so with LT headers and a cone intake, that's what, about 320rwhp? That should be good enough for low 12s in an FC, right? I prefer the power delivery of a naturally aspirated engine, anyways, and I'm mostly looking for reliability/gas mileage.

 

I repeatedly pulled a 12.9 at 110mph with 2.0 sixtyfoot.
thats on kumho MX's at 25psi, launching around 2500rpm, feathering the clutch to avoid wheel hop and to avoid breaking anything, with the driver side O2 sensor reading poorly since it broke on the steering shaft, my diff's front mount nuts not tight and my lsd isn't locking anymore [ ]

with lower tire pressure, new O2 sensor, aluminum tube for the intake, moving the air filter to the fenderwell, tightening the diff mount nuts and really launching hard at 4000rpm, the car should rock a low 12 second pass.

its 2720 pounds w/o driver, widebodied and setup for autox... not bad for a 1998 LS1 that sat in a barn for 12 months and only had the sparkplugs changed out for TR55's. It should be a low 11 second car after a mild cam swap, head refreshing, a fresh honing, new rings and longtubes.

wooot wooot!

 

Ray from torquecentral has gone 12.15 and traps ~115 with a '98 ls1/t56'd fc. The only mods are a cold air intake and ls6 intake manifold.

 

The last time I ran at the track the car went:

60' 1.729
330' 4.901
1/8th 7.529
MPH 93.36
1000' 9.797
1/4 11.704
MPH 118.43

Times are with M/T drag radials and stock TII rear.

 

How reliable have your guys' cars been so far? That's my main motivation for going LS1, I just want to pass smog without issues and have a car that I don't have to worry about all the time. Trapping anything above 110 is going to do just fine for me, and with an LS1, there's an easy 150hp to be made with bolt-ons, a cam and a small hit of nitrous.

 

There's an easy 150 hp to be made with just the hit of nitrous.

 

even with my 1998 motor (the year that everyone tries to avoid) I've had nothing but great experiences. the only problem was a leaky valvecover gasket I found when I did toomuch drifting around corners at an autox and it must have pooled oil in the driver side head enough to leak out a little... and I should have replaced my clutch slave and kept the clutch pedal travel stock.

complete reliablity! and I love it!

I had $6k more into my swapped civic... and that car was 2 seconds slower in the 1/4 mile than this ls1fc, almost as fast around an autox course as this ls1fc, but this ls1fc would destroy the civic on a roadcourse.

 

So what times do you think I'll run when I throw a 430 hp na LS1 into an Rx7

 

Should go easy 11's.....

 

Yeah, if you can stick to the track, and drive worth a hoot, you should have SOLID 11's. Some ET Streets and a good track/weather and that's capable of 11.5-11.7 range. Are you talking 430 Flywheel or RWHP?

 

430 RWHP, 389 RWTRQ. My '98 Firebird Formula runs 12.1's @118 right now, but thats with street tires and a bad rearend....

 

...and 900 more pounds of vehicle. The same setup in an FD would net MUCH faster numbers. Pretty good times for street tired Firebird though.

 

I'm putting down 431rwhp/380rwtq or 439/385rwtq on another dyno.... 500hp flywheel nonetheless.

My car at 2950lbs with driver went 11.50's@124mph n/a T56 without powershifting and 91 octane 26* timing. 1.89 60ft on 255/50/16 M/T Drag Radials and auto FD 3:90's out back. I have road race suspension and it is very very stiff and simply doesn't 60' well.... see sig.

With powershifting it should go 126mph... with higher octane fuel and 30* timing it would probably go 128mph n/a.

I just want to dip into the 10's with a 150 NX shot and hit 140mph driving to/from the track.

I put about 300 miles/wk on my car commuting in it and a few hundred additional most weekends. Has yet to leave me stranded in 5K+ miles of conversion time.

LS1 transplant is the reliable answer to a 500hp daily driven, 25mpg highway, 10/11 second 1/4 mile timeslip FD that can handle/brake and go like a bat out of hell.

 

My car is my daily driver. Since you are in California, you will have to take special precations to make sure that your car is smog legal. I am not very familiar with all the torid details of the California smog system, but people have done it before. The basic idea is that your engine must be newer than your chassis and that you retain all the smog equipment that originally came on the engine.

Andrew

 

430 RWHP should go WELL into the 10's. Especially with good drag radials (Mickey T's) and a drag setup on the suspension.

Mark,

I'd think you should be quicker then that, is it just the suspension setup hurting you?

 

429rwhp 403rwtq, the previous owner did 11.2@126 with the current cam (225/225). I believe he did an 11.1 with a 233/239 cam.

 

Road Race suspension, delrin bushings and a gigantic front sway bar simply doesn't transfer weight like a stock suspension with no front sway bar. Best 60' of the night was a 1.89... worst was 2.01 all on M/T Drag Radials. I need to learn to slip the clutch more... but my RAM910 is on/off... not easy like a Z06 clutch. I'm shocking the tires and getting wheelspin.

DigitalSolo- your automatic is worth a good 4 tenths faster in the 1/4 than a 6speed. You probably only need 400rwhp to run 10's depending upon your weight and suspension setup.

60' times are key to good 1/4 mile times. Every tenth faster in the 60' time is worth 1.5 tenths in the 1/4 et.

 

has anyone here run a stock (besides exhaust) 302EFI in an FB here? I'm underway with the swap right now and would love to see what it would do, I'm thinking mid-to-low 13's?

 

I figured that was the issue.

Yeah, I'm shooting for around 2650 lbs race trim, minus my porty posterior. I'm hoping for 10.5-10.7 with the 150 shot (~475+ RWHP). ET Streets of course.

 

gerbraldy, just do the math for a 200 whp FB.

As light as FBs are, you could probably cut a pretty good time with just that, and 302s are capable of making some cheap power themselves.

 

I dont understand... You could easily go 10's in a Rotory powered FD with only 450hp. Even 400 would put you well into the 11's. I think we can all agree that 400hp is pretty reliable in a rotory if you know what your doing. many people have put many miles without any problems.. the 13b is just very fragile if you have a good tune you shouldnt have any problems.. And I get at least 20mpg on my single FD while not in boost. Whats the adv you guys are putting just as much work if not more to go the same speed.. i dont know maybe its just a southern thing.. You guys must really love your v8's huh..???