tell me REQUIRED items to instal LS1
tell me REQUIRED items to instal LS1
Hey, i decided not to put another rotary in my car after i broke a seal and ruined half the engine. I've already sourced an ls1+t56 from a camaro that'll be here soon. And i have a pretty decent IDEA of all i need to for the swap. also i'll mention i'm not using the ECU/harness that's coming with the car; i'm getting a megasquirt harness/computer.
I have checked out quite a few subframes and i've seen quite a few opinions throughout the forum. I'd like to hear from more people who have done swaps using granny's/samberg/hinson/pyro/their own custom/other and what they liked or disliked about it and what they think is better/best -- i am NOT willing to modify my hood, so i think granny's is out although a lot say it's the best. I'd rather deal with bump steer dampers and bump steer itself tbh, rather than ruin the beautiful lines of my FD. I love how the car looks. I'm already changing one of the original reasons i loved it so i'm not gonna change the other lol.
Anyway, if someone could actually say every single piece they HAD to buy/find to swap in an ls/t56 into the FD i'd appreciate it. right now i'm worried about what needs to be there to install and run the engine -- not things that you SHOULD use, only the very bare-bones basics. or just define which is optional/should vs mandatory.
How does the FD's rear end hold up? --- my car was making 320-ish hp and 270ish ft/lbs before. but id imagine the ls would be torquey-er..
WELL, if there's anyone out there who know's and wants to reply, please do. i'd appreciate it a lot. I've been through a lot of build threads, and there are quite a few and they are amazing and informative. but i just want a simple list with everything mandatory that needs to be bought/replaced/modified ETC, everything that NEEDS done to get it in and running. and things that SHOULD be would be nice to know too but please make sure it's clear that they're SHOULD vs NEED.
sorry, i get repetitive online cause there are a few who just don't see what you're looking for the first time or sommmethign lol.
Thanks you guys.
Does a RHD make a difference when swapping? .. mine's a RHD jap car.
1994 fd3s
I have checked out quite a few subframes and i've seen quite a few opinions throughout the forum. I'd like to hear from more people who have done swaps using granny's/samberg/hinson/pyro/their own custom/other and what they liked or disliked about it and what they think is better/best -- i am NOT willing to modify my hood, so i think granny's is out although a lot say it's the best. I'd rather deal with bump steer dampers and bump steer itself tbh, rather than ruin the beautiful lines of my FD. I love how the car looks. I'm already changing one of the original reasons i loved it so i'm not gonna change the other lol.
Anyway, if someone could actually say every single piece they HAD to buy/find to swap in an ls/t56 into the FD i'd appreciate it. right now i'm worried about what needs to be there to install and run the engine -- not things that you SHOULD use, only the very bare-bones basics. or just define which is optional/should vs mandatory.
How does the FD's rear end hold up? --- my car was making 320-ish hp and 270ish ft/lbs before. but id imagine the ls would be torquey-er..
WELL, if there's anyone out there who know's and wants to reply, please do. i'd appreciate it a lot. I've been through a lot of build threads, and there are quite a few and they are amazing and informative. but i just want a simple list with everything mandatory that needs to be bought/replaced/modified ETC, everything that NEEDS done to get it in and running. and things that SHOULD be would be nice to know too but please make sure it's clear that they're SHOULD vs NEED.
sorry, i get repetitive online cause there are a few who just don't see what you're looking for the first time or sommmethign lol.
Thanks you guys.
Does a RHD make a difference when swapping? .. mine's a RHD jap car.
1994 fd3s
I would say look at most swap kits and you could most likely assume they include the necessities. There's soooo many threads on this though, and not just on this site but others dedicated to traitor swaps, er i mean, lsx swaps as well.
Samberg/Ronin swap kit for an FD is the best choice. The stock diff is ok, but the 4.10 ratio is not ideal.
You'll need all the wiring and ECU, exhaust, cooling for sure.
You'll need all the wiring and ECU, exhaust, cooling for sure.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; Oct 19, 2016 at 10:25 AM.
The Samberg/Ronin parts are super nice. Don't buy anything else..... or you'll be sorry 
Stock FD rear will be fine as long as you don't drag race it too much.... wheel hop kills driveline parts. My buddy made 540rwhp on an LS7 in his FD and ran the stock rear for years..... he just never drag raced it. 335/30/18's out back also!
replace all the bushings in the car as well as the 6 pillowball bushings from the get go. You will be glad you did as the originals will be toast. Samberg makes a rear diff mount kit to eliminate the torque arm. This also helps with wheel hop and opens up more clearance for exhaust.
Spend a weekend on norotors.com and see what it takes to build one. It isn't rocket science.... but certainly have do you your homework and actually want to work on the car. The same power ratings for a turbo rotary and n/a LSx are no comparison. LSx has power everywhere. No waiting for turbos to spool. If you want to make 400rwhp/380rwtq without taking off the heads..... PM me. It's simple with an upgraded cam, headers, tune and great driveability. 300rwtq essentially off idle is nice

Stock FD rear will be fine as long as you don't drag race it too much.... wheel hop kills driveline parts. My buddy made 540rwhp on an LS7 in his FD and ran the stock rear for years..... he just never drag raced it. 335/30/18's out back also!
replace all the bushings in the car as well as the 6 pillowball bushings from the get go. You will be glad you did as the originals will be toast. Samberg makes a rear diff mount kit to eliminate the torque arm. This also helps with wheel hop and opens up more clearance for exhaust.
Spend a weekend on norotors.com and see what it takes to build one. It isn't rocket science.... but certainly have do you your homework and actually want to work on the car. The same power ratings for a turbo rotary and n/a LSx are no comparison. LSx has power everywhere. No waiting for turbos to spool. If you want to make 400rwhp/380rwtq without taking off the heads..... PM me. It's simple with an upgraded cam, headers, tune and great driveability. 300rwtq essentially off idle is nice
Godsboss, you should check out the FD kit we have (link below) If you have any questions at all, feel free to reach out at sales@sikky.com!
Mazda RX7 LS1 Swap Kit - Sikky
Mazda RX7 LS1 Swap Kit - Sikky
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nitewing117
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Mar 25, 2016 03:17 PM




