Buddhastic

I'm driving a Toyota MR2 Turbo right now, pushing about 220whp. I love this car like nothing else, and every single time I drive it it brings joy to my eye. However, I've always had a love for FDs. The only other sub-$50,000 sports car I'd rather have beside an MR2 Turbo is, indeed, an FD RX-7. They're just gorgeous cars, every single facet of them.

However, as I'm in college I cannot afford one right now. I bought my MR2 Turbo for $7000 earlier this summer, and it came with a lot of stuff already in it (upgraded turbo, AEM EMS, Apexi N1 Exhaust, water cooling system, lightweight 16" wheels, EMS moniter, way too much more to list).

You simply cannot find an FD for that price. However, I'm very good at saving money, and have a nice pile saved up as it is. I figure that by the time I'm either in my senior year of college (sophmore right now), or a little while after I've graduated, I'll have saved up enough money for a good condition FD of my own.

However, what I really want to do is swap an LS1 into it. Don't get me wrong, rotary engines sound like a lot of fun, but there's something almost humorously intoxicating about the thought of a V8 powered tiny little Japanese sports coupe. I love torque, and lots of it. I like it to be accessible at the lowest possible RPMs.

So what I'm ultimately wondering is how much it usually costs for a full 13b->LS1 engine swap? I'm decently car savvy, I can pull off a turbo, replace suspension, and generally fix anything that goes wrong, but an entire engine swap is far beyond my ability, so I would have to have a shop do it for me.

What all is required for the swap? The engine of course, but from what I understand is that it mounts right up to the transmission, and no shoehorning of the bay is really required. It sounds like a fairly simple procedure for someone who is capable of doing it, so I'm hoping it won't be too pricy, but ultimately I have no idea.

Also, is it feasable at all to turbocharge the LS1? Is there enough room in the engine bay, can the transmission handle the torque, etc?

[edit] Also, how hard is it to find RX-7s with no engines? It seems like this would be the cheapest route; buy an engine-less RX-7 and have it towed straight to the shop to have the LS1 dropped in.

silver_7

https://www.rx7club.com/v-8-powered-rx-7s-299/v8-lt1-fds-452709/

u might want to check this post before u get flamed for not searching.

Buddhastic

Thanks for the link but that thread never really answered any of my questions... it sort of derailed into gear ratios..

wingsfan

I sent you a PM. I'm local to you and I have an LS1 converted FD.

You should swing by and I'll show you my setup. I could also do the swap for you no problem, but that's something we can discuss in person.

Andrew

Klar

Is it finished yet?

wingsfan

No. I've given up on guessing when it will move under it's own power again.

Klar

Arr! I wanted a ride.

I'll tell you my build plans this weekend and see if you think its too much.

Herblenny

iTrader: (13)

Hey Andrew,

I recently rode in Leo's LS1 FD (AbadR1). Its freaking amazing!

Buddhastic,

Well, 7k MR2 that makes 220RWHP vs stock FD for that amount isn't compareable.
I'm sure you got a great deal on one and if you are lucky, you could also pick up a lightly modded FD that makes 250RWHP for 7K.

Far as finding an engineless FD.. Well, I've sold 2 engineless FD's and both fetched over 5k. And both weren't in mint condition. I say going rate for good condition NO engine and tranny is around 6k. Sometimes you'll get a better deal on one with blown engine... And if you are really lucky, someone who thinks its blown, might not be blown at all.

wingsfan

How did the exhuast turn out? I built it for him.

Crash Test Joey

iTrader: (1)

If you have the space and hand tools, you can do the swap. There's nothing inherenlty hard about it; the most difficult part is the wiring (which to some is gravy, and to others makes no sense).


ALMOST EVERYONE that's done it has used a Hinson Supercars mounting kit, most have used his cooling system, some have used his fuel system, and quite a few just modify the stock F-body driveshaft that usually comes with a pullout from a 98-02 Camaro or Trans Am. Full pullout is the most cost effective way - comes with motor, trans, driveshaft, accessories, wiring harness and pcm, plus usually exhaust manifolds and even pedals came with mine. www.contemporarycorvette.com is where a few of us have gotten our setups (mine was from an 01 WS6 Trans Am for $4699 with 6 month warranty). There are others, some cheaper, some not. But it's the easiest way to get almost every part at once, and hell I never even separated the engine and transmission... just hung them from the hoist together and dropped them in.

You do have to do a SMALL amount of clearancing, but not much. The stock radiator tab (I guess that's what it's called) will be in the way of the LS1 alternator on the driver's side, the firewall in the center just below the 'lip' needs a smack or two to clear the MAP sensor on the intake... heck I think that's all I had to make room for.


I got my rolling chassis "post-engine fire" for $3500, and it was missing a few parts that have cost me damn near that to replace and I'm still not finished. Most I've seen go for close to $5-6k in good shape. If I had it to do again, I'g buy a complete running car in good shape and sell off the rotary engine and transmission, along with all the parts I didn't need (you can make back quite a few $ that way).

gnx7

iTrader: (10)

I bought my FD as a basketcase with popped motor and no seats with lots of interior pieces missing for $3K. After selling the rotary stuff I got the car for $1K.

The hardest part of the swap is getting a clean FD for a decent price. They are fragile and I would stay away from one that has been hit hard. The wiring can be a PITA but there are links to how to get it completed. The rest is just one big jigsaw puzzle that you tackle as independant systems. ie cooling, exhaust, electrical, engine mounting.....

The conversion is worth it. A turbo MR2 has a powerband with only a 2K rpm window for most street build ups. An LS1 makes 300rwtq+ at 2K rpm up to 7K and 350rwhp+ from 3K-7Krpm with upgraded cam/heads/exhaust. Power on demand at nearly any rpm with no waiting to make boost.

Save your money and start gathering parts for the build. LS1/T56 is relatively easy to procure... the FD takes some time. I looked for over 5 months to get mine!

Buddhastic

Yeah, my biggest concern is finding an RX-7. Apparently they're even more rare than MR2 Turbos (only 30,000 MR2 Turbos ever released in America, vs... what.. 18,000 or so RX-7s?). I'm sure finding an LS1/t56 shouldn't be any trouble, as Firebirds are a dime a dozen.

The more I look at it, the more it seems like a bad idea to buy a motorless FD. I'll probably just go the route of buying a working FD and selling everything I don't need, as someone else mentioned earlier.

I know it's kind of difficult to speculate a manner such as this, but how much do you think a good condition FD will run me in two or three years? As of now, they seem to be around $12,000-16,000. I'm hoping I could find one for $9-13,000?

Also, to the person who said you can find a lightly modded FD for $7000... WHERE!? What glorious place do you live that FD's are under $10,000!?

Also, responding to GNX7, MR2 Turbos have a more useable powerband than that. I get peak torque at around 3100rpms, and it lasts well until 6500 or so. Don't go knocking on MR2 Turbos, they really are fantastic little cars!

FD's are just better in every way though. Well, mid-engine is pretty fun.

Quadulus

Also, is it feasable at all to turbocharge the LS1? Is there enough room in the engine bay, can the transmission handle the torque, etc?

ask trirotor, he sold me his 20b setup to install a twin GT35 LS1 into his FC.

Nihilanthic

T-56 is rated at 450 foot lbs of torque, but Im sure it could handle a little more if youre not too hard on it. IIRC someone is boosting a LS1 to like 700 whp and minimally or didnt touch the internals at all, but thats apparently teh safe limit.

As far as finding a FC... whats frustraitng me is here people want 5K for a ******* NA. ITS NOT A TURBO-II! Aarhgajshdfjasd.

SoontobeLS1'd

Im doing a FC swap right now. There are deals out there for sure. Here is a list of my cost so far:

Well-taken-care-of FC: $1800 (used as DD, not bad)
LS1 Longblock: $1500 (a little much)
T56 (viper gears, carbon synchros, steel 3-4 fork, new fork pads): Only $1500!
Parts sold: $300 so far

Keep in mind I planned on spending more money due to cirumstances at the time and what I plan to do with it in the future. Good luck, especially with getting a cheap FD swap finished.