here is my trans mount, i had to adapt it slightly because of the 2x2 angle iron and my trans going back more than stock/chevy ones.

 

radiator mounts almost done.

 

ok, due to some of the parts being a pain in the *** to find, i think im going to convert it back to the long tailshaft, and use a slip on yoke. easier for me and in the long run, that way i can just buy a "custom length" driveshaft and make it to the length i want.

 

I've allready killed two motors in my v8 rx7 and your still not done yet? HURRY UP!!!

 

lol, how the hell did you kill 2 motors?

 

Broke a lifter in one and managed to flood the motor in the other one. Washed down the bearings, I love goooooold! Hopefully I didnt damage the crank and can have it fixed by this weekend and see what else breaks, lol. When is yours gonna be done?

 

1-2 months, im still debating on what setup i want for the pistons. i can get some chevy pistons to save weight and with those, i can increase the redline to 7k, im seeing how i can make that higher. almost all of my fabrication stuff is done, except for mounting a shifter, and making the fuel line longer. damn, your motors are taking a beating, hope your current one is good. finding new ones isnt something that i would like to keep doing.

 

Damn, cool **** dude!

 

thank you, wait til its done . this is why its taking my *** so long.

 

well looks like im going to be looking into mating a different pumpkin into my rear end, since ill be running the automatic
suggest good rear ends i could use that has irs. ive got the follow into consideration:
cobra 8.8
viper
vette c4

 

Dont forget the t-bird has an 8.8 with irs, as do the newer explorer's.

 

ive decided to go solid rear, 8 3/4 mopar, maybe a 4 link setup

 

Nice project bro

I like your radiator with a big 7 on it
LOL

 

BUMP and question

How do you set up a solid axle on a previously IRS car? How do you know where to place the mounts for the control arms, etc?

Also, why a 4 link? Dont wanna run a PHB and torque arm?

 

You simply measure out mounting points and weld in plates where necessary. There are several guys that have pics of this on Torquecentral.

And a 4 link is FAR better for a drag suspension then a PHB. Completely adjustable in track, with wheelbase adjustments possible too. Totally configurable for each track/conditions. You can make them handle pretty darn well too.

 

well im currently waiting for a ford 8.8 irs so if that falls through, i will be going with the solid rear. ideally, when i break 600hp with either the 8 3/4 or the irs, i will be upgrading to a dana 60 solid rear (huge bastards, and bulletrpoof, or a ford 9 if i find one cheap) then a 4 link. what i was going to do was bolt/weld mounting plates onto where i was going to mount the 4link tabs (i will post a picture of the setup i was goign to make/buy) to the chasis, so i have a bigger place to weld them to. the 4link because it is pretty much adjustable anyway you like it. if you arent hooking up at the strip you can adjust it so its grippier, if you dont want it quite as grippy, then adjust it again. ive heard where some guys cant even do burnouts very well, due to it biting too well. lupe has some photos of his 4link setup on his fd, ill find and post and ill find some tech stuff.

http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/4link.shtml

i also have this serious urge to tub my car, and run it that way. ill save that for breaking the 900 hp mark.

 

https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tech-103/who-has-installed-solid-rear-end-into-fc-need-crisspeeds-fl-email-303647/

the last part of that will explain how a 4link would be set up on an rx7 pretty well.

http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0067&langId=-1

thats what a kit looks like. i think you can locally find it cheaper. so find a local race shop or something similiar and go there and ask for prices.

 

I thought that 4links had a tendancy to bind if you try to corner with it using sticky tires and nothing specifically put in to handle lateral location, like a PHB or watts link... But then again if youre doing this solely for dragging and some street use... well, I dont see the problem.

 

Interesting. I see no reason why they would bind, with proper geometry and heim ends. Never know though, I didn't pay attention in most of my mechanical engineering classes (solitaire is fun).

 

nice work

 

guess what i got today

 

Since I'm curious...what?

 

413ci steel crank (3.75 stroke, compared to 3.38 of a normal 383/400) . options are now:
432ci with 383;
450ci with 383 and 3.9 reground stroke;
451 with 400 block;
472 with 400 and 3.9 reground stroke

http://compcams.com/Community/Articl...?ID=1153146425 if i go with 383 and stock 3.75 stroke dyno.

 

*Drool
I love Mopar! After the FD I would love to find a Roadrunner or Charger with a 383 or 440. Still debating if I should put a stroked 383 in the fd or not. Does anyone know if the newer "hemi" engines are alum blocks? As for the underatted HP numbers both my welding instructer and a chick I work with dad both said their 383 auto roadrunners hauled. good work man!

 

the 383 is a big block and a very tight fit in the fc even after i modified my firewall. doing it again, id almost go with an r3 race block in the fc and just turbo it right off. i really want to try a new hemi conversion into an fd. im pretty sure the new hemis are cast, as is most mopar blocks. i think you have to go to aftermarket for aluminum. if you have a budget then and some time then id go for it.