First of all..... no sh*t talking please. I'm doing this to withstand 700ft/lbs of tq and more for reliability sake.

I'm wanting to install an '87-93 Ford 8.8" solid rear end (from a Stang) into my '87 FC for drag racing. I would like to speak with someone that has done this. Doesn't matter what kind of solid rear you installed.... mainly interested in width of housing and rim offset plus whether a ladder bar or 4 link was used. I would like to stick with the Ford bolt pattern so that I can run an FD rim with 10.5" tire.... most likely 28" tall tire in stock wheelwells. Will be street driven. Want to keep sleeper look.

Does anyone have Chris "Speed" Anderson's email in FL or know the shop he works at? He has a low 9 second FC with 13BT-NOS and solid 8 3/4" Mopar rear.

Thanks in advance,

-GNX7

 

Sounds like the **** talkin already began

 

he he he... gotta watch out being one of the lonely wolves on the rotary board .

Good talking the other day Carl.

-GNX7

 

Don't you have other things to be worrying about right now...what are you doing with the Viper rear-end? IS that going in the 3rd gen?

 

I'm thinking of putting that in the 3rd gen. Rather have a wheelie popping drag car that won't break parts out back than one with IRS and isn't NHRA SFI legal to the 9's that breaks custom ($$$$) axles/CV joints.

Too many projects... not enuf $$$... and never enuf time.

ANyone have Crisspeeds email addy in FL or know which performance shop he works at? I think it is Orlando Performance or something like that.

-GNX7

 

If you want a reliable rear, why go with the 8.8? You'll have to spend a ton of money prepping it (31 spline axles, better than stock diff, c-clip eliminators, discs, etc.), so why not start with something that's already bulletproof? You know what I'm talking about...a 9". If you are concerned with weight, an 8" will take as much power and more than an 8.8.

 

Sounds like we gotta get you back out to Sears...

PaulC

 

I've found an 8.8" Ford diff for $50.
31 spline axles $219-299
Spool $199
keeping stock gears 2:73's
Cclip eliminators $?
............................

There are guys running low 9's/high 8's with a similar setup and 8.8" rear in 3200lb Mustangs. 9" is about 50lbs+ heavier which I don't need/want.

So for probably well under $1K I can have a stout freshly rebuilt rear end.

Anyone have Crisspeed's contact info?

Paul- I'm still roadracing... just have to actually finish the drag project and run a 9 second pass before selling it....

-Mark

 

i have a 9" in my fc

 

8.8 weighs considerably less than a 9 inch. 8.8 takes less power to run than a 9 inch. There are people running 9's on stock axles already. Rotaries don't put out much torque so breaking shouldn't be a problem.


8.8 all the way........

 

He doesn't have a rotary...

Flip side of the breakage problem: Rotaries don't have much torque so you have to launch them at higher RPM to keep the engine in its powerband and get the car moving until the engine can take over (instead of purely using inertia to move the car) and this is harsher on the driveline than a smoother walk-it-out type launch.

edit: homer no function well sleep without

 

Thanks for the reply on my question. (Body panels) Maybe I can shed some light on yours. E-mail me. Rich. (Sieben2)

 

Even though I have to launch my car at 7k, it's still not going to be as hard on it than a big torque car.

 

Yes it will. Shock loads are much more harmful than constant loads.

When you want to drive a nail, do you push it in or do you smack it with a hammer?

 

most high power v8's run auto's like me i have a powerglide even tho say a v8 has 1000 ft/lbs the whole drive line is loaded up before the launch so ripping off the line at 6000 stall is a way diff laod then a stick car with the drive line unloaded and bang clutch drop 7000k think of it as a tight bolt pull and pull wont pop free hit it with an impac gun comes right out thats why with a stick best to have a line lock foot on the gas foot on the clutch slipin it at the line to load up the drive line

 

old thread i know.

ok, anyone have pictures of an mopar 8 3/4 install on an fc?

 

just wondering? is it that crucial? i know someone in town taht runs about 575-650hp and its the stock rear end been using that same stock rear end and running 10.3's consistantly full car, stock panels full interioir. i dunno just wondering the reasons...why u would switch to a different rear end...\


thanx

 

gearing, ill be using an automatic and the 4.10 puts the highway speeds/cruising speeds at wayyy more than i would like. that and the torque i will be putting down, im shooting for 600ft lbs of tq and hp (v8 swap) and its just easier for me if i do the swap now. i dont want to do the solid rear but its the most effective way. i think i can go 3link without it being too difficult.

 

Razorback, I'd do truck trailing arms with a Panhard bar like old stock cars. You'd be able to keep most of the floor pan intact that way and the handling is good for a straight axle. I was considering this setup for my FC for the same reasons. With the T56 I the 4.10 gears are fine.

http://www.stockcarproducts.com/trkarm.htm
http://www.classicperform.com/tech_a...coil-overs.htm

 

im DEFINATELY looking into that. thanks alot, better than the leaf spring setup.

im gonna have to pull my car out, and put it front in, so i can remove my rear subframe. not looking forward to that.

btw can i get differnt lug patterns for axles on my 8 3/4 like a mustang bolt pattern or something? i like the mopar tires they offer, but i want matching rims all around.

 

Holy ****, have you guys lost your damned minds? A solid axle will ruin the handling of a RX7!

What, are you guys a bunch of hill billies?

 

why the hell did you go to a solid rear end? your not making enough torque to break the t2 rear ends (maybe the fds)

 

Seeing that you know what I have, I thought you would know that I was kidding

Reason for me switching to a 8.8/ 4 link, I broke my stock diff and decided to go with a bullet proof rear end.

 

i sensed sarcasm

any pictures of your install or mounting points on your chasis? also is it that noticeable over the irs?

id rather sell my stock t2 diff before i broke it so i could get money out of it, to use to switch over to the solid rear. plus i can get lockers for this one, and the gearing i want.

whats your gearing in the 8.8?

 

Here are some not so great pictures, almost 3 years old. I didn't notice any difference in handling but I'm no drifter

Davinci Motorworks (D&R Autoworks) did the install.

The chassis mounting tabs for the control arms are attached to 18sq" plates.