mopar 383/727 combo into 87 t2
#28
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ok, due to some of the parts being a pain in the *** to find, i think im going to convert it back to the long tailshaft, and use a slip on yoke. easier for me and in the long run, that way i can just buy a "custom length" driveshaft and make it to the length i want.
#31
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Broke a lifter in one and managed to flood the motor in the other one. Washed down the bearings, I love goooooold! Hopefully I didnt damage the crank and can have it fixed by this weekend and see what else breaks, lol. When is yours gonna be done?
#32
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1-2 months, im still debating on what setup i want for the pistons. i can get some chevy pistons to save weight and with those, i can increase the redline to 7k, im seeing how i can make that higher. almost all of my fabrication stuff is done, except for mounting a shifter, and making the fuel line longer. damn, your motors are taking a beating, hope your current one is good. finding new ones isnt something that i would like to keep doing.
#35
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well looks like im going to be looking into mating a different pumpkin into my rear end, since ill be running the automatic
suggest good rear ends i could use that has irs. ive got the follow into consideration:
cobra 8.8
viper
vette c4
suggest good rear ends i could use that has irs. ive got the follow into consideration:
cobra 8.8
viper
vette c4
#39
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Originally Posted by razorback
ive decided to go solid rear, 8 3/4 mopar, maybe a 4 link setup
How do you set up a solid axle on a previously IRS car? How do you know where to place the mounts for the control arms, etc?
Also, why a 4 link? Dont wanna run a PHB and torque arm?
#40
RX-347
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Originally Posted by Nihilanthic
BUMP and question
How do you set up a solid axle on a previously IRS car? How do you know where to place the mounts for the control arms, etc?
Also, why a 4 link? Dont wanna run a PHB and torque arm?
How do you set up a solid axle on a previously IRS car? How do you know where to place the mounts for the control arms, etc?
Also, why a 4 link? Dont wanna run a PHB and torque arm?
And a 4 link is FAR better for a drag suspension then a PHB. Completely adjustable in track, with wheelbase adjustments possible too. Totally configurable for each track/conditions. You can make them handle pretty darn well too.
#41
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Originally Posted by Nihilanthic
BUMP and question
How do you set up a solid axle on a previously IRS car? How do you know where to place the mounts for the control arms, etc?
Also, why a 4 link? Dont wanna run a PHB and torque arm?
How do you set up a solid axle on a previously IRS car? How do you know where to place the mounts for the control arms, etc?
Also, why a 4 link? Dont wanna run a PHB and torque arm?
http://www.afcoracing.com/tech_pages/4link.shtml
i also have this serious urge to tub my car, and run it that way. ill save that for breaking the 900 hp mark.
#42
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https://www.rx7club.com/race-car-tech-103/who-has-installed-solid-rear-end-into-fc-need-crisspeeds-fl-email-303647/
the last part of that will explain how a 4link would be set up on an rx7 pretty well.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0067&langId=-1
thats what a kit looks like. i think you can locally find it cheaper. so find a local race shop or something similiar and go there and ask for prices.
the last part of that will explain how a 4link would be set up on an rx7 pretty well.
http://www.jegs.com/webapp/wcs/store...0067&langId=-1
thats what a kit looks like. i think you can locally find it cheaper. so find a local race shop or something similiar and go there and ask for prices.
Last edited by razorback; 11-08-05 at 02:25 PM.
#43
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I thought that 4links had a tendancy to bind if you try to corner with it using sticky tires and nothing specifically put in to handle lateral location, like a PHB or watts link... But then again if youre doing this solely for dragging and some street use... well, I dont see the problem.
#44
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Originally Posted by Nihilanthic
I thought that 4links had a tendancy to bind if you try to corner with it using sticky tires and nothing specifically put in to handle lateral location, like a PHB or watts link... But then again if youre doing this solely for dragging and some street use... well, I dont see the problem.
#48
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413ci steel crank (3.75 stroke, compared to 3.38 of a normal 383/400) . options are now:
432ci with 383;
450ci with 383 and 3.9 reground stroke;
451 with 400 block;
472 with 400 and 3.9 reground stroke
http://compcams.com/Community/Articl...?ID=1153146425 if i go with 383 and stock 3.75 stroke dyno.
432ci with 383;
450ci with 383 and 3.9 reground stroke;
451 with 400 block;
472 with 400 and 3.9 reground stroke
http://compcams.com/Community/Articl...?ID=1153146425 if i go with 383 and stock 3.75 stroke dyno.
#49
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*Drool
I love Mopar! After the FD I would love to find a Roadrunner or Charger with a 383 or 440. Still debating if I should put a stroked 383 in the fd or not. Does anyone know if the newer "hemi" engines are alum blocks? As for the underatted HP numbers both my welding instructer and a chick I work with dad both said their 383 auto roadrunners hauled. good work man!
I love Mopar! After the FD I would love to find a Roadrunner or Charger with a 383 or 440. Still debating if I should put a stroked 383 in the fd or not. Does anyone know if the newer "hemi" engines are alum blocks? As for the underatted HP numbers both my welding instructer and a chick I work with dad both said their 383 auto roadrunners hauled. good work man!
#50
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the 383 is a big block and a very tight fit in the fc even after i modified my firewall. doing it again, id almost go with an r3 race block in the fc and just turbo it right off. i really want to try a new hemi conversion into an fd. im pretty sure the new hemis are cast, as is most mopar blocks. i think you have to go to aftermarket for aluminum. if you have a budget then and some time then id go for it.