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hi there andrew
just watched your latest video and i noticed your rear spoiler
how does it mount on your fb
on my sa it has bolts drilled trough and they always leaked water so i got feed up and filled them in when i removed the spoiler
now i'm thinking to find another way to mount
that is why i'm interested in yours
thanks brother
hi there andrew
just watched your latest video and i noticed your rear spoiler
how does it mount on your fb
on my sa it has bolts drilled trough and they always leaked water so i got feed up and filled them in when i removed the spoiler
now i'm thinking to find another way to mount
that is why i'm interested in yours
thanks brother
Gordie, Mine is drill through as well. I am going to seal the spoiler with RTV so it does not leak, I garage my car though so its not as big of a deal
Ok I see
But yours looks like it is all one price with the rear of the body
I have been thinking about fiberglass it on to the body
I find all the cars that have removed it look out of scale
So I am now sorry I welded up the holes
Andrew I have a rear suspension setup question for you, following a conversation I had today with T3. Below are some snips from that email chain....
T3 - Have you moved your upper trailing arms to the outboard side of the chassis yet? This will make the 4 links nearly parallel and help to keep the watts link/angled 4 links from binding.
Me -
I have never heard of that before, thank you. Once I have everything else set up I will try that. My only concerns would be -
1) Reduced tire clearance
2) Strength, since the link will now focus stress on the outer mounting "plate" instead of sharing it on both sides (see attached pic). Also, your west coast cars still have good sheet metal, but the rest of the country isn't so lucky. The upper link reinforcing plate is known to hide rust behind it, which eats the metal on the storage box side. I do like the geometry of your idea though, so I will look into it.
T3 -
Yes, it does make it a single shear point and does reduce tire clearance by a bit. We have not had any issues out here, but most of our RX7's all have around 50K to 60K miles and are California cars, so no rust at all. In your case, I'd be inclined to make sure everything was solid, stitch weld as necessary and maybe make a safety strap for the other side of the rod end. I think it is worth it, as far as handling goes. The factory setup binds as the geometry isn't right.
So I'm wondering if you have tried this on your car? I think I've watched all your videos but I don't remember seeing this mod, and most of the regulars on the 1st gen forum(s) would scream Blasphemy! if I asked this on the general forum. I really like the geometry of the mod, but question it's strength under side loads (like the ones that ate your urethane link bushings).
That is super interesting! I have never personally done this but I have seen other roadracing FBs with a similar set up. My concerns are the same as yours, if I was to do this I would build a second bracket and weld it so the bolt is in double shear loading.
I did build a set of upper and lower arms for a guy that drifts his FB, and he is super low as well. I had to make offset high misalignment spacers for the upper arms so the would not bind, so that might be an option as well. I am pretty happy with my set up now so I probably will not be changing anything.
09-17-19, 05:43 PM
