LS1 swaps?
Thread Starter
My turbo is bigger!
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Blairsville, Georgia
rotarys are just too much work with the seals and all.
im more familear with the piston type engines.
i like the rotarys and all, they are just to hard to work on.
i would understand of they made like 600hp stock. but they just arnt cutting the cake.
im more familear with the piston type engines.
i like the rotarys and all, they are just to hard to work on.
i would understand of they made like 600hp stock. but they just arnt cutting the cake.
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: memphis tennessee
ok im very new to the site but i ran accross this and thought i would say something.
revsk8erdude u are on the right path. **** all that **** everyone says. i understand the rotary. I LOVE THE ROTARY. BUT when it comes to reliablity + power a v8 is the way to go. i am on here doing research on chasis and areo dynamics in relation to the fd. i started with research on the 13b and on to the 20b. from what i have read and seen u would dump tons of money into a rotary to make 600hp period.....
i have a friend doing what is called an lsx swap. he bought a engine that came out of a yukon or some ****. i cant remember nor can i remember what the displacement was. but these engines only cost like 500-700 dollars.
a few simple mods and hes looking at 500-600 whp. he is putting it into a s14. after car $6000, engine $600, heads, drivetrain, and all hes looking at 13000 for a car that will stomp a c6 zo6 (coming in at like $60,000) reliably.
im about to do the same thing into a fd but with twins. weekend worrior only vehicle. but im looking for like 800whp 1000 with lots of boost. this is possiable with this swap. im looking to dump more money in it such as a full build but if u just wanted cheap reliable power the lsx swap is the way to go.
go to the ls1tech forums and go to the swaps and modification forum u will see some insain ****. jus a little FYI
revsk8erdude u are on the right path. **** all that **** everyone says. i understand the rotary. I LOVE THE ROTARY. BUT when it comes to reliablity + power a v8 is the way to go. i am on here doing research on chasis and areo dynamics in relation to the fd. i started with research on the 13b and on to the 20b. from what i have read and seen u would dump tons of money into a rotary to make 600hp period.....
i have a friend doing what is called an lsx swap. he bought a engine that came out of a yukon or some ****. i cant remember nor can i remember what the displacement was. but these engines only cost like 500-700 dollars.
a few simple mods and hes looking at 500-600 whp. he is putting it into a s14. after car $6000, engine $600, heads, drivetrain, and all hes looking at 13000 for a car that will stomp a c6 zo6 (coming in at like $60,000) reliably.
im about to do the same thing into a fd but with twins. weekend worrior only vehicle. but im looking for like 800whp 1000 with lots of boost. this is possiable with this swap. im looking to dump more money in it such as a full build but if u just wanted cheap reliable power the lsx swap is the way to go.
go to the ls1tech forums and go to the swaps and modification forum u will see some insain ****. jus a little FYI
Opossum Opatrol
Joined: Oct 2007
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
From: Sumter, SC
and, then if you were smart you'd rebuild the engine because you have no idea how that motor was treated, mileage, etc...which would not be cheap, and the labor as well if you werent mechanically inclined to do so yourself
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: memphis tennessee
dude i can have the engine rebuilt for like 1500 dollars. and even still with 2000 dollars worth of mods i can run 500hp out of it.
i read about a guy u was all about the rotary. he spent i dont know how much in performance rebuilds on 6-7 different engines. he kept blowing up. he finally resorted to a v8 and yet has had a problem with it running like 400hp
(edit) but like alot of ppl on here, u probably know someone who can give discounts.
i read about a guy u was all about the rotary. he spent i dont know how much in performance rebuilds on 6-7 different engines. he kept blowing up. he finally resorted to a v8 and yet has had a problem with it running like 400hp
(edit) but like alot of ppl on here, u probably know someone who can give discounts.
Thread Starter
My turbo is bigger!
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 15
Likes: 0
From: Blairsville, Georgia
ok im very new to the site but i ran accross this and thought i would say something.
revsk8erdude u are on the right path. **** all that **** everyone says. i understand the rotary. I LOVE THE ROTARY. BUT when it comes to reliablity + power a v8 is the way to go. i am on here doing research on chasis and areo dynamics in relation to the fd. i started with research on the 13b and on to the 20b. from what i have read and seen u would dump tons of money into a rotary to make 600hp period.....
i have a friend doing what is called an lsx swap. he bought a engine that came out of a yukon or some ****. i cant remember nor can i remember what the displacement was. but these engines only cost like 500-700 dollars.
a few simple mods and hes looking at 500-600 whp. he is putting it into a s14. after car $6000, engine $600, heads, drivetrain, and all hes looking at 13000 for a car that will stomp a c6 zo6 (coming in at like $60,000) reliably.
im about to do the same thing into a fd but with twins. weekend worrior only vehicle. but im looking for like 800whp 1000 with lots of boost. this is possiable with this swap. im looking to dump more money in it such as a full build but if u just wanted cheap reliable power the lsx swap is the way to go.
go to the ls1tech forums and go to the swaps and modification forum u will see some insain ****. jus a little FYI
revsk8erdude u are on the right path. **** all that **** everyone says. i understand the rotary. I LOVE THE ROTARY. BUT when it comes to reliablity + power a v8 is the way to go. i am on here doing research on chasis and areo dynamics in relation to the fd. i started with research on the 13b and on to the 20b. from what i have read and seen u would dump tons of money into a rotary to make 600hp period.....
i have a friend doing what is called an lsx swap. he bought a engine that came out of a yukon or some ****. i cant remember nor can i remember what the displacement was. but these engines only cost like 500-700 dollars.
a few simple mods and hes looking at 500-600 whp. he is putting it into a s14. after car $6000, engine $600, heads, drivetrain, and all hes looking at 13000 for a car that will stomp a c6 zo6 (coming in at like $60,000) reliably.
im about to do the same thing into a fd but with twins. weekend worrior only vehicle. but im looking for like 800whp 1000 with lots of boost. this is possiable with this swap. im looking to dump more money in it such as a full build but if u just wanted cheap reliable power the lsx swap is the way to go.
go to the ls1tech forums and go to the swaps and modification forum u will see some insain ****. jus a little FYI
hahaha.
im not as dumb as you guys thought!
right on brother!
i guess i should go ahead and say it though.
well.
i have a fully built CRX purpose drag car running 9's on 18 psi. thats my race car.
i dont need another.
this one is supposed to be my daily driver.
i just want it a little faster, not popping wheelies when i floor the pedal.
so im going with a $1500, 13-b turbo II from ebay. install myself.
save up and get a bigger turbo and NX n-tercooler spray kit.
there. its done.
ive finally made up my mind and thats how its going to be.
if the rotary goes out in the future (pray to christ it wont) i will consider a v8.
thread over.
ok im very new to the site but i ran accross this and thought i would say something.
revsk8erdude u are on the right path. **** all that **** everyone says. i understand the rotary. I LOVE THE ROTARY. BUT when it comes to reliablity + power a v8 is the way to go. i am on here doing research on chasis and areo dynamics in relation to the fd. i started with research on the 13b and on to the 20b. from what i have read and seen u would dump tons of money into a rotary to make 600hp period.....
i have a friend doing what is called an lsx swap. he bought a engine that came out of a yukon or some ****. i cant remember nor can i remember what the displacement was. but these engines only cost like 500-700 dollars.
a few simple mods and hes looking at 500-600 whp. he is putting it into a s14. after car $6000, engine $600, heads, drivetrain, and all hes looking at 13000 for a car that will stomp a c6 zo6 (coming in at like $60,000) reliably.
im about to do the same thing into a fd but with twins. weekend worrior only vehicle. but im looking for like 800whp 1000 with lots of boost. this is possiable with this swap. im looking to dump more money in it such as a full build but if u just wanted cheap reliable power the lsx swap is the way to go.
go to the ls1tech forums and go to the swaps and modification forum u will see some insain ****. jus a little FYI
revsk8erdude u are on the right path. **** all that **** everyone says. i understand the rotary. I LOVE THE ROTARY. BUT when it comes to reliablity + power a v8 is the way to go. i am on here doing research on chasis and areo dynamics in relation to the fd. i started with research on the 13b and on to the 20b. from what i have read and seen u would dump tons of money into a rotary to make 600hp period.....
i have a friend doing what is called an lsx swap. he bought a engine that came out of a yukon or some ****. i cant remember nor can i remember what the displacement was. but these engines only cost like 500-700 dollars.
a few simple mods and hes looking at 500-600 whp. he is putting it into a s14. after car $6000, engine $600, heads, drivetrain, and all hes looking at 13000 for a car that will stomp a c6 zo6 (coming in at like $60,000) reliably.
im about to do the same thing into a fd but with twins. weekend worrior only vehicle. but im looking for like 800whp 1000 with lots of boost. this is possiable with this swap. im looking to dump more money in it such as a full build but if u just wanted cheap reliable power the lsx swap is the way to go.
go to the ls1tech forums and go to the swaps and modification forum u will see some insain ****. jus a little FYI
Good luck with 800-1000 rwhp.
Newbie
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 4
Likes: 0
From: memphis tennessee
ok this is one reason y i dotn want to get involved with forums. i never once said about doing a "ls1". what i am talking about is a "LSx". they come out of yukons and denalis engine code LQ4. its the same as a ls2 but it has lower compress pistons and a cast iron block. it makes 325 stock. with certian kinds of heads and intake manifold it will make 400-500 hp. du wah. i said nothing about building a ls1. if u pay the max for this engine ur looking at like 1000 for a good used one.
and once agian i have a friend that i have been doing this thing with now for like all most a whole yr he has spent alone 3000 in just the engine. this is engine, upgraded mild street cam, heads, intake mani, headers, exhaust, drive trian, and ect. we have been peicing it together with a pay check to pay check bassis. granit we know how to do alot of the work. we have a friend that knows how to do frame and body work. but this is the first attempt at something like this for all of us. and its coming along really well. when i get my project on the way, im talking about twinning this thing. that means a full build that is really reliable with reason.
ive done my homework and this is by far a more logical way to go. rotars are cool. the very thought of having a 20b is insain. i love the sound of them. but what it takes to have them built and the modification u have to go through to get it in the car is just impratical. then u have to maintain it a certain way bc if not there goes all that money that u spent on a rendered worthless engine. at least piston engines can handle detonation. detonate a rotar at high boost and kiss that thing good buy.
just think about that. once again rotars are cool jus not pratical for a racer on a budget.
and once agian i have a friend that i have been doing this thing with now for like all most a whole yr he has spent alone 3000 in just the engine. this is engine, upgraded mild street cam, heads, intake mani, headers, exhaust, drive trian, and ect. we have been peicing it together with a pay check to pay check bassis. granit we know how to do alot of the work. we have a friend that knows how to do frame and body work. but this is the first attempt at something like this for all of us. and its coming along really well. when i get my project on the way, im talking about twinning this thing. that means a full build that is really reliable with reason.
ive done my homework and this is by far a more logical way to go. rotars are cool. the very thought of having a 20b is insain. i love the sound of them. but what it takes to have them built and the modification u have to go through to get it in the car is just impratical. then u have to maintain it a certain way bc if not there goes all that money that u spent on a rendered worthless engine. at least piston engines can handle detonation. detonate a rotar at high boost and kiss that thing good buy.
just think about that. once again rotars are cool jus not pratical for a racer on a budget.
Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2007
Posts: 677
Likes: 0
From: Northern Virginia
Sorry, not a big fan of the "Let's just dump a big V8 in there" bandwagon. It just doesn't seem like a "good" swap. The SR fits much more in with the balanced FC chassis. The SR is the 13B's evil twin from the piston world.... plus, 500+ whp out of 2 liters never hurts.
Junior Member
Joined: Dec 2005
Posts: 13
Likes: 0
From: las vegas
If you can do a "few simple mods" to an LS1 and make 500-600rwhp please let me know how. Unless you are talking about using nitrous it won't happen without a lot of work (very good cyl heads/camshaft/valvetrain/tuning and high rpm -think upgraded bottom end). They are an amazing engine but you are a little off base. A $600 engine is most likely a 5.3 liter cast iron truck engine that you would need to convert the intake, accessories, oil pan, etc to run it in a car. A 6.0 is a very capable and cheap (maybe 1500-2000) engine that can make a lot of power but again most are cast iron and fairly heavy and you would still need a lot of parts of a camaro or corvette engine to make it work.
Good luck with 800-1000 rwhp.
Good luck with 800-1000 rwhp.
And I have seen a bone stock 4 bolt main chevy 350 with a bolt on twin turbo kit make 800 hp at the fly. It's not that hard to do.
He is no that far off base to say that with a few simple mods an ls1 can make 500 hp. With the new edlebrock cam and head setup, they are showing 100 more hp, 425, dyno proven. Add the fast intake manifold and engine management system an tuning. A set of headers and exhuast and you are very close to if no over 500 hp.
And I have seen a bone stock 4 bolt main chevy 350 with a bolt on twin turbo kit make 800 hp at the fly. It's not that hard to do.
And I have seen a bone stock 4 bolt main chevy 350 with a bolt on twin turbo kit make 800 hp at the fly. It's not that hard to do.
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
Bwahahaha, I saw an FB with an LS swap on Pinks unlimited. Thing lines up and blows a head gasket during the burn out!!! The rotary Gods will punish you if you do it.
Anyone remember the 3+ minute burnout/ bouncing of the rev limiter in an FB back in the day??? After all that **** the motor blew but it lasted longer than the LS swapped FB 10 sec. burnout!!!!
don't do it.
Also, I would like to see some realistic MPG stats from the V8 guys.
I drove a 4 cyl. econ car on my vacation to shasta ( if the snow got to me I'd total a POS instead of my 7) and the damn crap car got the same MPG as the 7!!! and I was cruising the same speed and taking off slower than in the 7. I then drove a Chevy V8 that got me 15 mpg driving normally ( i did Punch it several times and loved the way it hauled uphill). Please let me know how you all come up with the better MPG/ reliability argument please.
Anyone remember the 3+ minute burnout/ bouncing of the rev limiter in an FB back in the day??? After all that **** the motor blew but it lasted longer than the LS swapped FB 10 sec. burnout!!!!
don't do it.
Also, I would like to see some realistic MPG stats from the V8 guys.
I drove a 4 cyl. econ car on my vacation to shasta ( if the snow got to me I'd total a POS instead of my 7) and the damn crap car got the same MPG as the 7!!! and I was cruising the same speed and taking off slower than in the 7. I then drove a Chevy V8 that got me 15 mpg driving normally ( i did Punch it several times and loved the way it hauled uphill). Please let me know how you all come up with the better MPG/ reliability argument please.
I believe that C6 base does get 28 mpg.......wonder how the "RX-7 gas penalty" affects it?
LOL at the 600 whp S14.......an underpowered corvette will still whup it around a track.
LOL at the 600 whp S14.......an underpowered corvette will still whup it around a track.
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
28mpg while driving like grandpa? or 28mpg driving it like you're supposed to drive it?
My TII is rated at 18mpg city/20 mpg hwy but I often see 10mpg while out having fun.
My NA gets 20 city/26+ hwy (cruising 80mph most of the time) but when I get on it I see 15mpg.
Rating are good base numbers but i don't think they are realistic considering the way you enjoy the car.
I understand why people find the 7's appealing. The car IS balanced very well, but if you're gonna spend a decent amount of money on a motor why not put it in a car that has the chassis and suspension BUILT for that motor??
If I wasn't a Rotary guy, I'd be a Chevy guy, I'd have a Z06 with 50/50 weight distribution and a chassis MADE to handle superbly well. Why not spend your money on a car that looks great, handles great and has the motor you're looking for?
How much will the LS swap cost, REALISTICALLY??
A well thought out swap will use the best motor/parts available and I assume will cost close to or more than $12K, right?? Plus the labor, and any other modifications needed for it to turn on.
You can find decent mileage Z06s for ~$25K.
I can avoid all the sacrilegious swapping, and labor and just buy a sick car to begin with.
Am I making any sense?
My TII is rated at 18mpg city/20 mpg hwy but I often see 10mpg while out having fun.
My NA gets 20 city/26+ hwy (cruising 80mph most of the time) but when I get on it I see 15mpg.
Rating are good base numbers but i don't think they are realistic considering the way you enjoy the car.
I understand why people find the 7's appealing. The car IS balanced very well, but if you're gonna spend a decent amount of money on a motor why not put it in a car that has the chassis and suspension BUILT for that motor??
If I wasn't a Rotary guy, I'd be a Chevy guy, I'd have a Z06 with 50/50 weight distribution and a chassis MADE to handle superbly well. Why not spend your money on a car that looks great, handles great and has the motor you're looking for?
How much will the LS swap cost, REALISTICALLY??
A well thought out swap will use the best motor/parts available and I assume will cost close to or more than $12K, right?? Plus the labor, and any other modifications needed for it to turn on.
You can find decent mileage Z06s for ~$25K.
I can avoid all the sacrilegious swapping, and labor and just buy a sick car to begin with.
Am I making any sense?
grandpa obviously.
HOW THE HELL DO YOU GET 26 mpg????
I used to get 24, now I'm only getting 22.6, I got 399.35 miles on one full tank.....I'd like to be able to get 450.
I don't think any vette is worth getting except for the C6.....they finally got the suspension design right.
HOW THE HELL DO YOU GET 26 mpg????
I used to get 24, now I'm only getting 22.6, I got 399.35 miles on one full tank.....I'd like to be able to get 450.
I don't think any vette is worth getting except for the C6.....they finally got the suspension design right.
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
SAFC is my best friend and my wife doesn't drive as crazy as me. We still cruise at 80mph but she gets there a second or 10 later than I would. Change the plugs, wires and O2 sensor on schedule, tires inflated properly, Full exhaust, TPS, timing, and all the good stuff is set to specs. This is done on the previous dynotune and I think the guy left it a tad rich. I'm gonna try to install a wideband and lean it out some more and see what gas figures I see.
I think I could do better than 26 if I draft some of the big-rigs on the long trips but I don't like the "following too closely" issues that could come up from drafting. I did it on my cross-country trip and It really does help. I could feel the car being pulled towards the big rig at over 70mph and according to the SAFC I was on the throttle less at HWY speeds while drafting than when I was by myself.
I kinda got pissed when the economy car we rented got the same MPG as the 7. It handled worse, braked horribly, looked like *** but held 4 people.
SO, back on topic:
Who the hell drives their cars like Grandpas???? The only problem I've faced with teh V8 guys stems from my need to get a realistic answer from them. Yeah, the motor is rated at 26+ mpg, but how much do YOU get when driving it on a fun weekend??
I need to find a local V8 guy that isn't a huge ***** and will do some testing with me to the the pros and cons of the swap. REALISTICALLY.
I think I could do better than 26 if I draft some of the big-rigs on the long trips but I don't like the "following too closely" issues that could come up from drafting. I did it on my cross-country trip and It really does help. I could feel the car being pulled towards the big rig at over 70mph and according to the SAFC I was on the throttle less at HWY speeds while drafting than when I was by myself.
I kinda got pissed when the economy car we rented got the same MPG as the 7. It handled worse, braked horribly, looked like *** but held 4 people.
SO, back on topic:
Who the hell drives their cars like Grandpas???? The only problem I've faced with teh V8 guys stems from my need to get a realistic answer from them. Yeah, the motor is rated at 26+ mpg, but how much do YOU get when driving it on a fun weekend??
I need to find a local V8 guy that isn't a huge ***** and will do some testing with me to the the pros and cons of the swap. REALISTICALLY.
Last edited by phoenix7; Jan 2, 2008 at 04:39 PM.
I have an AFC Neo as well, but closed loop negates all of my fuel tuning for cruise. I was running at -22.5% all throughout low throttle and it gave me worse gas mileage than a +5% setting, though my +5% trip was done with the 5th and 6th ports freezing open.
My +5% trip had mainly flat land, whereas my -22.5% trip had a lot of ups and downs.
I think I'm just going to tune for power to get the most vacuum possible and let the O2 sensor take it from there.
Plugs changed June
Wires changed June
O2 Sensor changed June
6000 miles at most since June.
My +5% trip had mainly flat land, whereas my -22.5% trip had a lot of ups and downs.
I think I'm just going to tune for power to get the most vacuum possible and let the O2 sensor take it from there.
Plugs changed June
Wires changed June
O2 Sensor changed June
6000 miles at most since June.
Banned. I got OWNED!!!
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 26
Likes: 1
yeah, I noticed that decreasing the fuel to those levels made my MPG worse too (made me 
) so I went back to the previous dynotune numbers (dynotuned by previous owner and I still have the Dynosheets and notes) and have kept it at -12.5% all around. I will be able to see what's going on once the wideband is in though. I don't feel like wasting $$ on another dynotune.
I didn't go as high as you since I was doing it blindly but the -17% settings didn't help mileage like I thought it would.
) so I went back to the previous dynotune numbers (dynotuned by previous owner and I still have the Dynosheets and notes) and have kept it at -12.5% all around. I will be able to see what's going on once the wideband is in though. I don't feel like wasting $$ on another dynotune.I didn't go as high as you since I was doing it blindly but the -17% settings didn't help mileage like I thought it would.
If you get something like a G-tech or Apex'i RSM (or a Nintendo Wii as evidenced in that lounge thread), you can blind tune without a wideband for max power. You'll get there before you overly lean the fuel, I've choked the engine of gas at redline 3rd gear before, and the engine still runs fine.
