Long time RX-8 owner, first time FC owner...
12-24-15, 08:42 PM
#1
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Long time RX-8 owner, first time FC owner...
Hello guys, I just recently acquired a 88 FC for $600. Car is in great condition for the year and mileage. I want to do an LS swap. I've toyed with other engine ideas but the LS just seems like the ticket.
All I'm looking to build is a great all around driver. I'm not a drag racer or a hard core Autocrosser.
I'm thinking stock L33 5.3 with the T56 manual. I know about getting F-body accessories to be able to close the hood.
My biggest concern is; will the TII/GTU rear hold the power?
I've looked on Grannyspeedshop's website and read their LSX swap guide and it seems very easy and straightforward. I just want to make sure there isn't something else that can bite me in the ***! I'm on a tight budget unless I sell my RX-8 to fund the build...which I really don't want to do!
Thanks for your time and I appreciate any input!
Sincerely,
Brian
All I'm looking to build is a great all around driver. I'm not a drag racer or a hard core Autocrosser.
I'm thinking stock L33 5.3 with the T56 manual. I know about getting F-body accessories to be able to close the hood.
My biggest concern is; will the TII/GTU rear hold the power?
I've looked on Grannyspeedshop's website and read their LSX swap guide and it seems very easy and straightforward. I just want to make sure there isn't something else that can bite me in the ***! I'm on a tight budget unless I sell my RX-8 to fund the build...which I really don't want to do!
Thanks for your time and I appreciate any input!
Sincerely,
Brian
12-24-15, 09:55 PM
#2
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The T II rear end is pretty strong, I have a '88 with a L33/cam/intake with a T56 and it works great, the only issue is I had to build pinion snubber after the stock front rubber side mount sheared.
12-25-15, 09:41 AM
#3
Joel and the folks over at Ronin Speedworks have a really nice and complete installation kit for what you are looking at doing;
FC LSX Mounting Kit - Supreme
FC LSX Mounting Kit - Supreme
12-25-15, 10:41 AM
#4
Brian,
Definately go with Ronin for the swap kit it is simpler, lighter and allows easier service of the engine than the Granny's kit. Also the exhaust routing with the Ronin kit is much easier. When your budget allows consider their Ford 8.8 conversion kit, as this will allow you to run a lower rear gear ratio for less shifting and better MPG. The car will have huge performance, lots of torque and get over 30 MPG with a different rear gear.
Until then the Turbo rear end will work fine, the gearing is just a bit short.
Definately go with Ronin for the swap kit it is simpler, lighter and allows easier service of the engine than the Granny's kit. Also the exhaust routing with the Ronin kit is much easier. When your budget allows consider their Ford 8.8 conversion kit, as this will allow you to run a lower rear gear ratio for less shifting and better MPG. The car will have huge performance, lots of torque and get over 30 MPG with a different rear gear.
Until then the Turbo rear end will work fine, the gearing is just a bit short.
Last edited by LargeOrangeFont; 12-25-15 at 10:44 AM.
12-25-15, 04:06 PM
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Brian,
Definately go with Ronin for the swap kit it is simpler, lighter and allows easier service of the engine than the Granny's kit. Also the exhaust routing with the Ronin kit is much easier. When your budget allows consider their Ford 8.8 conversion kit, as this will allow you to run a lower rear gear ratio for less shifting and better MPG. The car will have huge performance, lots of torque and get over 30 MPG with a different rear gear.
Until then the Turbo rear end will work fine, the gearing is just a bit short.
Definately go with Ronin for the swap kit it is simpler, lighter and allows easier service of the engine than the Granny's kit. Also the exhaust routing with the Ronin kit is much easier. When your budget allows consider their Ford 8.8 conversion kit, as this will allow you to run a lower rear gear ratio for less shifting and better MPG. The car will have huge performance, lots of torque and get over 30 MPG with a different rear gear.
Until then the Turbo rear end will work fine, the gearing is just a bit short.
12-26-15, 11:40 AM
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Cool! The price didn't bother me. I just want to make sure I'm getting quality. I'm getting frustrated at what these junkyards want for a LS1, let alone the price for a T56. Smh
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12-28-15, 11:20 AM
#8
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If you have the space, buy a parts car and sell the unneeded parts, or look at trucks and vans for an LQ motor. T56 is gonna be hard to find cheap, just keep looking, good luck!
12-28-15, 11:52 AM
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I'd like to keep the block aluminum for weight, or I'd do it because those are much cheaper
12-29-15, 11:26 AM
#10
Yes the aluminum block saves you 99-100 lbs verses the iron block. Inexpensive aluminum block LS engines are basically the 5.3L truck variety, either the L33, LM4, LH6 or LC9 Gen III and IV engines. But then you need everything from the F-body 5.7L from oil pan, intake to front accessories and drive. The F-body T56 is the one you want as well.
It would be expensive up front, but finding a late Gen IV F-body donor car or complete F-body drive train pull out gets you everything you need in one purchase. There are salvage yards that specialize in late model performance pull out drive trains. We have one locally;
http://www.clevelandpap.com/
It would be expensive up front, but finding a late Gen IV F-body donor car or complete F-body drive train pull out gets you everything you need in one purchase. There are salvage yards that specialize in late model performance pull out drive trains. We have one locally;
http://www.clevelandpap.com/
12-29-15, 11:47 PM
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Yes the aluminum block saves you 99-100 lbs verses the iron block. Inexpensive aluminum block LS engines are basically the 5.3L truck variety, either the L33, LM4, LH6 or LC9 Gen III and IV engines. But then you need everything from the F-body 5.7L from oil pan, intake to front accessories and drive. The F-body T56 is the one you want as well.
It would be expensive up front, but finding a late Gen IV F-body donor car or complete F-body drive train pull out gets you everything you need in one purchase. There are salvage yards that specialize in late model performance pull out drive trains. We have one locally;
http://www.clevelandpap.com/
It would be expensive up front, but finding a late Gen IV F-body donor car or complete F-body drive train pull out gets you everything you need in one purchase. There are salvage yards that specialize in late model performance pull out drive trains. We have one locally;
http://www.clevelandpap.com/
12-30-15, 10:51 AM
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01-01-16, 09:32 AM
#15
The main issue with the GTO is that is has the wide ratio gear set with the deeper gears needed for a heavier car, IIRC it is some like 2.97 1st . You should stick with the 2.66 1st gear set in the F-body. Also at least for the FC the F-body shifter location is near perfect. The GTO shifter location may work in a FD but it is not optimal in the FC
01-08-16, 04:28 PM
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The main issue with the GTO is that is has the wide ratio gear set with the deeper gears needed for a heavier car, IIRC it is some like 2.97 1st . You should stick with the 2.66 1st gear set in the F-body. Also at least for the FC the F-body shifter location is near perfect. The GTO shifter location may work in a FD but it is not optimal in the FC
01-20-16, 04:09 PM
#18
You are in good shape. I know it is some extra coin, but try to do the 8.8 swap. The car will rip, and will get around 30 MPG with 3.55 gears. You'll still get 25+ MPG with the 4.10s, you'll just be shifting a lot. People have been running FCs with 4.10s for years, but the Fbody T56 gearing makes it livable.