A little progress...
Originally Posted by 65Imp
Do you have one of the S&P mounts or know how thick it is?
You could drop the engine a bit by replacing the rubber sections, assuming you had enough pan clearance at the steering rack and didn't mind the loss of ground clearance.
Jim,
That's pretty slick ****, I've come to expect nothing but good work from you. Sometime I'de love to do a LS1FD, and I think I'de use you happily for inspiration.
Now I'm done with that BS.
When will you have pictures of your motor in?
That's pretty slick ****, I've come to expect nothing but good work from you. Sometime I'de love to do a LS1FD, and I think I'de use you happily for inspiration.
Now I'm done with that BS.
When will you have pictures of your motor in?
I would like to see the actual bump steer numbers after everything is finalized. "no-bump steer" simply inst true! Mazda used a computer to help find the optimal position of the rack and tierod lengths to minimize bump steer. Now the rack is no longer in that happy place.
Just yesterday i ran an autoX on some really rough pavement. I was thinking that if I had any more bumps steer out there it would have made my car, which was already difficult to control, completely out of hand.
Just yesterday i ran an autoX on some really rough pavement. I was thinking that if I had any more bumps steer out there it would have made my car, which was already difficult to control, completely out of hand.
Especially when people want less expensive (but quality) parts.
When I get more motivated to work on my own car. I still haven't decided what engine I'm using or if I'm going to have another built, but meanwhile, someone is supposedly working on a billet intake for me that will work with L92/LS3 heads. 
I'm running a '03-'04 Mustang Cobra 8.8" IRS and 300M axles, using a kit I developed.



To retain the handling characteristics of the stock car while improving strength and being able to use a wide range of gear ratios.
The tie rod linkage is extended and the ends are adjusted to compensate for the change in position.
Originally Posted by Jager
When will you have pictures of your motor in?

Originally Posted by roachdiddy
what rear end do you plan to run?
and why?
Originally Posted by OC_
Mazda used a computer to help find the optimal position of the rack and tierod lengths to minimize bump steer. Now the rack is no longer in that happy place.
if you dont mind me asking?? what did that whole rear end setup cost you?? you could pm me if you would like?? im very interested! that is the last thing i have to buy, and my $$$$$$ headach is gone! lol
and here is a HUGE reach... could i get the part numbers on everything you used, so i myself can build this great looking while functional rear end setup!
thanks
and here is a HUGE reach... could i get the part numbers on everything you used, so i myself can build this great looking while functional rear end setup!
thanks
could i get the part numbers on everything you used, so i myself can build this great looking while functional rear end setup!
LOL. Be carefull how you ask questions. I think it can be replicated for a bit less than that, but Jim has pioneered many of these innovations. As such he "eats" many of the costs associted with what is essentially a one off design. He makes the information available to the rest of us who can borrow from his efforts and replicate our own.... for less than it cost him to figure it out. I believe he also has all brand new parts that will add to what it cost him.
I apprecaite the efforts... while I have the ability, I do not have the funds at this point for that sort of experimentation.... so I like being able to take advantage of the research of others.
I apprecaite the efforts... while I have the ability, I do not have the funds at this point for that sort of experimentation.... so I like being able to take advantage of the research of others.

You can duplicate it for about $1,400-1,900 depending on what kind of bargains you find and what choices you make on components. I've posted complete price breakdowns here...
http://www.v8rx7forum.com/v8-rx7-tec...tml#post403388
Talk to Blaine. My engine cradle is going to be sold through Dynotested.com as part of his new conversion kit.
Blaine@dynotested.com
760-583-5925
www.dynotested.com
Blaine@dynotested.com
760-583-5925
www.dynotested.com
The LS2 and LS3 Corvette pans are your best options. The LS1 F-body pan has oil control issues under hard cornering and would benefit from some internal baffling.





