help me or i swear i will burn this car to the ground!

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Old 11-05-06, 06:05 PM
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Angry help me or i swear i will burn this car to the ground!

this is how close the grannys kit puts the water pump from a 89 mustang to thier special ford dubble pass rad.

i think this is to close but i have not swaped an engine this before, what do you think.

by the way this is the first pic post i have made, go me!!!!
Old 11-05-06, 06:14 PM
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i also found out today that to swap to a shorter water pump(one off a 94-95 mustang 5.0l) it would require me to swap the entire front timming cover! i am having some serious thoughts of not finishing this and just cutting my losses. ever time i go to do something i run into another problem. so much for "many people say it is easyer then putting back in the 13b"
Old 11-05-06, 07:18 PM
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torquecentral.com
Old 11-05-06, 07:46 PM
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i will be posting on torque central aswell. i dont mean to sound like an a$$ but why is it that when i search questions in this forum that the most common repley is torquecentral.com

i mean this is the other engine forum not the go to torge central forum.

i am not meaning to sound like an ungreatfull punk but i dont think that just telling people to go to another forums is helpfull.

it has been a long day full of let downs and dead ends, sorry to sound like an a$$, it is not a personal attack man.
Old 11-05-06, 07:50 PM
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That sucks!

Does the pulley hit the radiator? If so, I'd swap the shorter water pump and special front cover. V8 swaps are worth it, but there are a lot of problems that will pop up. Don't believe the people that claim it's as easy as putting a 13b back in. For one, a 13b is guaranteed to have hood and radiator clearance.

Sorry to hear of the frustration. I'd take a week off and source a water pump and front cover during the break.
Old 11-05-06, 08:07 PM
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the pullies dont hit the rad but the little end of the water pump is around a 1/4 - 1/2 inch away from the rad, too close i think. i kinda wish i used a cradle of my own so i could have moved the motor back a bit. i will kick the next guy in the nuts that says a v8 is easyer to swap then a 13b. with the v8, how much "rock" do you get front to back?
Old 11-05-06, 09:42 PM
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I can't say I've ever heard of longitudonally mounted motors rotating front to back when running. You could always grind off most of the center nub on the water pump, leaving ~.100" for centering the pulley.

Seems there should be more clearance for the fan though. Someone designed that granny kit and probably knows about all this.
Old 11-05-06, 09:54 PM
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Any engine swap, especially a different 'type' of engine, is going to have bugs to work out. What is simple to one person may be the hair that broke the camels back to another person. I'd say that you are alot closer to finishing than you think. Sometimes it is best just to step back for awhile like 88IntregraLS said. Take a break for a while. Spend some time with family/ friends, etc. This gives you time to think about the problem from different angles and come up with the best solution. When you are frustrated and angry, you don't think clearly and could mess something up. Remember, this is supposed to be for fun. Don't make it a nightmare.

I had a freind one time who took a piece of crap 70 six cylinder camaro and went through the whole car. Built big block, trans, rear end, paint, interior, etc... Problem was he never stopped to give him self a break. He got to the point where everything was done except to bolt the hood back on, an he lost one of the hood mounting bolts. THat was the proverbile straw. He lost it and picked up a 5lb sledge hammer and threw it through the windsheild. He was so worked up over that car. Now, not only did he have to shell out more $$ to replace the windsheild, he ended up disliking the car and sold it within a few weeks. Never even got to enjoy it. He had $$$ into that car.

I don't mean to come across as a counselor or anything like that. Just want you to stop and think about the first time you decided to do the swap and why. Then find someone who has a v8 Rx7 or any kind of car that is making big power and get a ride. Rekindle that feeling, think out your situation and enjoy it.


OR you can pick up a 5lb sledge, throw it through the windsheild, and then burn it to the ground like you said....


Personally, I think you will have much much more satisfaction completing the swap, knowing you overcame all the obstacles, and being able to take on majority of other cars out there with a big cake eating grin on your face


Later,
Bill
Old 11-05-06, 10:04 PM
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Cool

i have talk to grant at grannys, he really wasnt any help. i am going to run the highest cfm push fan on the front of the rad with the largest opening possible and go from there. the motor also sits real high as well as the rad, see what im talking about



it dosnt look to bad from here


like i have said before, for the money grannys is no good for this swap. this is only my views and i am not done with the swap yet. i here there is also problems with the master and slave cylinder kit they sell, is this true?
Old 11-06-06, 07:44 AM
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That radiator looks like its for a semi truck! Are you sure ta tthe hood will close? I am thinking that its not.

Andrew
Old 11-06-06, 12:40 PM
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the rad is a good size, i havn't tryed to close the hood yet, that will be one of the last things i do, dont really care if it does right now lots to do before that but it will be close.
Old 11-06-06, 05:33 PM
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motor swap kits are not an exact science and it is always better to do it yourself if you can. I would cut the pump shaft off as much as possible and see how it works. radiator looks huge for the engine type and power. the Mazda unit is pretty good especially for a small V8.
Old 11-06-06, 05:33 PM
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i didn't mean to insult you i'm just saying that TC...has everything you want to know between all those minds over there. w/o the flame wars ;-)
Old 11-06-06, 05:41 PM
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put the rotary back in it
Old 11-07-06, 07:54 AM
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kaoticFdr1 i know you werenot trying to insult me or anything man it's all good.

the rad from a fc i dont think would be any good cause it has so much tilt, it would most likly be through the crank pully if i still had it. i went with this rad cause it helps with the little amount of space i have (all though not enough) and at some distant point down the road i am planning on having about 350whp from the motor. i think that since i will have to run a push fan as well the bigger the rad the better. the more i look at that front picture it does look like a semi truck, oh well semi trucks are cool! the next swap i am going to do is put a 625hp cat motor with a 18 speed and a split rear end into a first gen, now that torque!

i will try to cut off a bit of the pump shaft and see how that goes, not like i have anything to lose, and will report back on the progress. that for all the help so far and for any more help i will need in the future (wiring, hint hint)
Old 11-12-06, 05:11 PM
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by grinding the pump shaft flush with the pully i have gained a bit of room(i can fit the first digit of my finger in between the rad and the water pump now) and will gain a bit more room after i find a bolt with a shorter head or i grind the bolts down a bit, i also plan on pulling out the washers from behind the bolts and using lock tight to keep the bolts in place. thanks for the idea guys and i will make a new post for my swap soon and up date it when i do some thing.
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