misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I remember seeing a site that made the subframe spacer kit that basically puts the subframe down about an inch.(lower subframe means better hood clearance.)
The kit has the extended bolts and plates..
I just can't remember!.. WHO makes them?
Can anyone jog my memory?
Thanks Guys.
STYX!~

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

Why would you want to do that? And I'd be suprised if it was an inch.. That would cause way more problems than it solves.

Apowers091

Front Frame Spacers - 1" with bolts - FC - RX-7 - Mazda

Here is the link for them from Xcessive. I thought about using these with my 5.0 swap.

Yolo7

Interesting. I wonder how this changes to front suspension/steering geometry, ride hight? Any body have pictures of these installed?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

BINGO!..
thanks man!

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

No it just raises the body of the car relative to the suspension.

DeaconBlue

iTrader: (31)

So you are always driving around with the front end raised up and the suspension drooping, plus you loose 1" of suspension compression travel. That should really add a lot of negative camber and upset the steering as well. Or am I missing something here? If I am correct, why would you do this? For hood clearance or trany clearance with the tunnel? If you need additional clearance I am sure there are better ways - like a hood scoop or modify the tunnel, right?

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

The engine sits on the subframe so I don't know how the car would let the suspension Droop when in reality the spacers raise the whole chassis up an inch.Not the other way around.
As for suspension travel?..the chassis is being lifted UP so that means that the shocks are now less compressed than from the stock stance so the shock is able to travel more.This makes me presume that the springs will now have the ability to compress more and the shock able to sustain rough road better.
I can't see any changes as the car still sits the same,stance wise it would still sit on the wheels the same way...it would only be the chassis being raised and the suspension is already aware of the weight.

DeaconBlue

iTrader: (31)

The top of the strut is attached to the body and the bottom is attached to the hub, LCA and sub frame. if you install a 1" spacer between the body and sub frame you increased the effective length strut assembly by 1" and eliminate 1" of droop travel in the suspension.

You have effectively lengthening the strut assembly by installing the 1" spacer between the body and sub frame. The body will settle on the spring due to the weight of the car, but the relationship of the strut length and spring at rest is now miss matched, compared to stock. You would need a 1" longer spring for a stock strut housing or move the collar on your coilovers.

Also as the hub travels through its arch of motion, the face of the hub (and wheel/tire) transitions from negative camber at full compression to positive chamber at full droop. So by installing a 1" spacer you are effecting the amount of chamber at rest. In a stock FC, it is hard to get the desired negative chamber, by effectively lengthening the strut, you have decreased the likely hood of having the desired amount of negative chamber at rest.

Because the steering rack is located on the sub frame, you will not induce any change to the bump steer or the angle of the outer tie rods by installing a 1" spacer between the body and sub frame.

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

I thought about this..long and Hard..

Then realized I was watching ****...

So..I thought about it again..and just placed the order.
We'll see how it goes.

I found some interesting conversions for the 302 engine while shopping around.
Serpentine belt re-configuring..lowering and moving the tensioner and PS...and alt bracket thing-a-ma-jiggy..
GM HEI conversion from Duraspark II is interesting too.

Freeskier7791

Interesting to see how this goes, I think that carb set up is really killing your height

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

It's 6 of one and half a dozen of the other Freeskier..
I got height clearance issues with the Belt tensioner and the PS reservoir neck too.The Dist sticks up too..
The Carb,I got a Freeflow Edelbrock triangular air cleaner and put it on.
Hmmm..little too high..MEH..cut about 3/4 on the carb "flange" side and lowered that puppy.Now it is almost flush to the hood height(outside)

I got a Scoop..went 4 hours return to get it BUT..of course..it needs Fiberglass work,which I freakin hate...so I want to lessen that task too.

The goal I am aiming for is not whether it sits Lower in the engine bay but to overall look as stock outside as possible.
..then again it will be hard to do that since I just got a damn BODY KIT to slap on it too..(what am I thinking??)

I'll try to slap a pic up when I get the chance.

This is all being done in a Trailer park..across from the Landlord's House..in a Portable Garage...SHHH...............................Just follow the Yellow Brick Road..lol!

Freeskier7791

I wanna see some pics of this

misterstyx69

iTrader: (142)

By rights I should start a Build Thread on this but I'm not the most extravagant of Builders.
I just work with what I got and If it turns out OK then Fine..it works for me and that's all that matters.If it doesn't then I don't get the old "I told ya so."...lol!

I did however clean up the engine a bit and changed the intake,Built a High Energy Ignition system out of a GM Module and a Mazda Theft deterrent system casing..haha..(seriously,I DID!).
Still awaiting the spacers as I gotta go under the car anyways to run battery cables and fuel lines.(exhaust later..gonna take that to a shop,maybe.I have no welder)

FREE Dude...if you REALLY want pics..I can text ya some.
Pm me your digits.