Another picture with a custom wiring harness installed. Just found out today that the Mazdaspeed vented hood will fit without hitting my intake manifold. It has about 1/4" clearance

 

all i can say redtt is,um you are going to have alot of happen trying to connect the steering column to the steering rack with the motor in.let me tell you its much easier putting it in first.this is how i did it .i say this cuz i remember how much of a bitch it was just to adjust that thing with the engine in.

 

I'm sure that's not biased in the least either I wonder what results RE Amemiya or any other respectable rotary tuner would come up with...

I also bet a race prepped 13B (bare) would weigh considerably less than what comes stock.

 

That's not going to be a problem at all. I'm sure this engine will come out at least 2 more times before it gets started. Still waiting on my clutch and flywheel, need to modify the oil pan, driveshaft, ect.

 

Trying to get this engine up and running and bought some cheap block huggers. Installed them and people said it should clear my steering shaft but it doesn't, not yet. Jimlab, twin78, do you guys know if these are suppose to fit? There is a big rubber ball on the steering shaft and I'm thinking if I cut that off somehow, it should clear. Here is a picture



It could be that just that rubber ball is in the way but just wanted to see what you guys think

 

The block huggers that Grant brought down did clear my steering shaft. The "rubber ball" that you're talking about is probably the upper steering joint that's covered by a rubber boot. I can't think of anything else on the steering linkage that corresponds to what you're describing.

 

redtt.i cut all rubber boots off the shaft.i seen no reason for them.they do not protect any grease covering on the joints from the weather.i used custom headers but had the back one modified to clear the shaft.block huggers will fit.best thing to do is modify the engine mount on the other side.this means place the engine mount by the steering shaft correctly with the cradle then just modify the other side.i swear grant did all this work to just create more work.what a tard.he makes no sense.

 

The steering rack I have is from a 2nd gen so that's why I have that rubber ball thingy. I'm going to cut that off because if the 3rd gen didn't need it, neither does the 2nd gen rack. I think the only part that might hit the steering shaft is the header collector flange. I'll cut and relocate the whole flange if it is in the way.

 

i have the 2nd gen steering assembly also

 

The sin in man does not ever cease to amaze me.

 

 

 

Looks like the Kindergarten class was let out early and decided to play in your thread John...

 

Aw, it's alright. Both you, I and many more people know this is the smartest thing done to the RX7 yet

 

Good luck with the swap man.

As for everyone bitching about the "allure" of the rotary and how it shouldn't be changed....

"I'm going to make my Civic fast! I know Civics stock aren't fast but I'm doing it to be *keyword* DIFFERENT *key word* And being different is what's important!"

People who say "It MUST stay rotary because the rotary is different" sound just like the Honda boys I describe above. I can understand your differing of opinion but in the end it is his car. If he wants to do a 1.3 liter Geo Metro engine swap with a converted Skyline body kit then he will. Expressing disdain for anothers project is childish.

And most of the people on this forum have their own FD's; so worry about yours. Complaining about what someone else is trying with their car seems kind of futile. Hell, you could argue that a V8 FD is a lot rarer than a rotary powered FD, correct? So technically he is more different than a good part of the RX7 owners.

How does that Proverb from the Bible go?
"Don't be so quick to point out the stick in a man's eye when you have a log in your own."

 

that;'s pretty clean! but man =/ y do that?! vette's and rx7's don't get along!