rch415

I am considering a 1uz, a 2jz, an rb25, or something else i haven't found yet. Are there any suggestions on whoch motor would keep the car nimble, well balanced, and light and also fast, but able to keep the rear wheels planted?

Thor 18

Quick answer is there's a reason most people swap an LS1,2,3, etc. Light (400 ish lbs), fairly compact, easy to make power, and very wide torque curve makes it more flexible for spirited driving.

Keep in mind the JZ and RB motors are iron, longer than an LS, and require turbos, plumbing, and intercoolers. All of this will put more weight on the front of the car.

This is a broad generalization, and people have made 2jz's work out well. In the end look at all of the specs, all the parts, and the whole powerband, and figure out what you want. Just remember, HP/ liter means essentially nothing

golson

iTrader: (3)

That is my same thoughts. I plan on maybe an LS2 rear turbo.

thehazz12

I've been dying to Vq swap something lately. I just think it would be a badass swap and be perfect for one of these cars. It's light, makes great power from the showroom, and you can do anything do it. If you found one of the HR motors from the later 350's and did a longtube, cams, ITB build it would make A TON of power. ...more than enough to have PLENTY of fun in one of these cars. And it would just look badass.
If not that, I'd do the 1UZ. I'm tired of seeing Ls's swapped into EVERYTHING.

aa35199

iTrader: (1)

Buddy of mine is a 240 guy, we were discussing engine swaps and had mentioned he wanted to do an LS swap on his Nissan. I asked if he had thought about an RB and he scoffed at the idea going into detail about sky high cost of aftermarket parts for the RB motor and at the end the day you could have well done turbo LS motor, or a modestly warmed over RB for the same money.

lastphaseofthis

iTrader: (8)

1 uz 2 uz 3 uz ....1 ur?. take your pick...
3uz : The 3UZ-FE, is a 4.3 L (4,292 cc or 261.9 cu in) version built in Japan. Bore is 91 mm (3.6 in) [1] and stroke is 82.5 mm (3.25 in). Output is 216 to 224 kW (290 to 300 hp) at 5600 rpm with 441 N·m (325 lb·ft) of torque at 3400 rpm. It has an aluminum engine block and aluminum DOHC cylinder heads. It uses SEFI fuel injection, has 4 valves per cylinder with VVT-i.

1UR :The 1UR-FSE V8 engine, introduced with the Lexus LS 460 & LS 460 L luxury sedans in 2006 has a 4.6 liter (4608cc) displacement, which it gets from a 94 mm bore and 83 mm stroke The engine includes D4-S direct injection and dual VVT-iE producing 385 hp (287 kW) at 6,400 rpm and 51 kg·m (500 N·m; 369 lb·ft) at 4,100 rpm.

stock numbers, if i WAS todo a 1UR swap i would retain the factory lexus ecu, to control everything.
oh yeah, then there is the COST factor that take most poeple to an LSx...

Littleguy

iTrader: (5)

I think people just go LSX because you could do all the things you describe doing to the VQ motor for half the cost, make more power, and have much less of a headache putting the whole thing together.

rch415

Well, I have decided to do a 1uz in my FC. Not too sure of complete details, but I know it will be a 1uz powered machine.

TheGoldenSB

iTrader: (1)

Stock 1uz is a pretty slow v8. It must be built, turbo'd, or supercharged to see any good power. i have many friends that went 1uz and hated the stock power.

aa35199

iTrader: (1)

I'll never understand the fascination with japanese V8's,
-expensive
-small to non existent aftermarket
-the small selection of aftermarket parts carry insane prices, $1400 for a set of cams are you kidding me!!!
-Are you ready to fabricate and oil pan and headers that will clear?
-the engine itself is huge in size yet the displacement is small
-you will have to reverse engineer and adapt the FI layout of the doner car to make the stock ecu work
-You will have to shell out money for a stand alone system when you realize how woefully inadequate the stock ecu is when power adders come in.
-You will need power adders to break 300rwhp (turbo, super charger, N2O)
-Did you do a motor tear down, replace the pistons with low CR units, and all other associated maching and parts costs because the stock 10-10.5-1 Comp. ratio isn't ideal for boost or N2O
-X2 if your running a woefully inadequate stock ecu.
-Lack of documentation means your options for help will be limited WHEN, NOT IF you run into problems.
-What are your transmission options? is there a reasonably priced trans the suits your needs? or will you have to search all over creation to find some guy who can gussy up a stock trans for a hefty fee.
-No carb option, you FI guys can gripe all you like, but I can buy an Edelbrock carb that will very reliably support 500hp for $300 with no tuning, bolt and go!
-And worst of all, no chome dress up parts!

Meanwhile my ford roller cam 302 (aka the fox mustangs 5.0HO)
-Fit like a glove thanks to the swap kit I bought from grannies
-Requires a grand total of three wires to run, one if you go with a mechanical fuel pump and manual choke.
-is small, no really it's tiny compared to any ohc V8
-very well documented swap, I was even able to modify my stock guage cluster to read accurate RPM, speed, oil pressure, thanks to all the documentation on grannies website.
-My cam cost a total of 1/10th the price of a preformance 1UZ cam
-Drives great! I don't care what you think about carbs, mine works great under all conditions.
-Mustang guys with my motor combo report 270-300hp 300-320rwtq on the dyno, I am running a moddest combo of a mild cam and stock ford explorer heads, far more power is available even without forced induction.

Why would you spend so much to gain so little? granted a 1uz would look cool, but the work to pay ratio and the cost to benefit ratio is so lopsided and besides why do you even want to do a swap in the first place, so you can go faster and have more fun. You are not pursuing this project for the purpose of being different so who cares if you have a carbed chevy 350 or LS motor, at the end of the day its all about the miles and smiles.

coastlineamps

I think the V8 swaps are not too bad at all. I see classifieds of RX7 owners selling their swapped V8 car for twice as much as if it was an rotary. I know it takes a lot of work to do the swap. But I think you will get most of your money back just from putting the V8 in the car. Plus they are so reliable and easy to maintain and good gas mileage......Hell I am trying to get more than 15 mpg out of my 13B.