hi everyone, just wondering anyone reading has done this? my 13b is pretty much pooched so i was thinking of doing a 350 swap to my s4 88 fc. just looking for some knolage on this. like, how hard of a swap? things im going to need, ect. ect. any input is awesome

Thanx

 

man this has been covered a bazillion times just do a search on here or google and take teh time to read... If you are mechanically enclined it should be a really easy swap since you can buy a "swap" kit and if your going carbed it will be really easy.

 

join http://www.norotors.com/

 

if you're going to do it, at least go with an LSx engine instead of something prehistoric

 

thanx guys, im new too the rx-7's so i wasnt sure if it was common or not, anyways thanx again

 

Yes it is common to swap in a SBC. Try looking here www.grannysspeedshop.com

 

If you're not going LSx, you might think Ford small block - about 50lbs lighter than the SBC and a little more compact, can sit further back in the chassis without the dizzy sitting on top at the back - although aluminum heads can make up the weight difference, you can also get those for a Ford too.

TII or na car? Because if it's na, you might want to find TII axles and diff to better handle the torque.

 

Be aware that actually bolting in the motor/tranny is the simplest part of such a project.
You'll not only spend endless hours poring over wiring diagrams but find that you get nickel and dimed to death picking up all the "incidentals" required.

It's worth the journey though.

 

True

Honestly, having both...all i can say is that dollar to dollar, rebuilding/rotary swapping (ie na to tii) is a cheaper/better option unless you just happen to have a v8 donor car sitting around with nothing better to do with it.

That being said, my lsx has the "put you in the back seat" acceleration off the line that my rotary power cars long for!

If you have the cash to burn and want a front heavy car, go for it. I also suggest, as others already have, to read until your eyes fall out. Put them back in, and read some more.

 

I think it could be done an easy way or a difficult way. As mentioned, with a swap kit from Grannyspeedshop.com that can even include the driveshaft, you'd be pretty much set as far as mounting is concerned. Then if the motor has a carburetor your wiring will be pretty damn simple, the fuel system would be pretty easy. It really doesn't seem difficult at all. Just not for me, well I would do one if I get to keep my turbo II and if I could get a good deal on the V8. For the longest time I was closed minded to the V8 RX-7 idea, that is until I drove a V8 mustang GT, yea not the quickest in the world...but now I know why people love V8s

 

the swap isn't all that hard. It is just time consuming mostly. You can just get a engine and tranny (carb engine) and that would make it a lot easier for you. Cause the most expensive parts for me was my engine and tranny hands down

 

I did the basic 350 swap 3 years ago.... I totally restored the 1987 Rx7 - GXL to brand new again.
Costing $42,000 ... I know most of you would say "
Are you crazy...... anyway I have a fuel problem.
When I drive the car for more than 15 minutes it starts spitting and sputtering fuel and stalls out.
Then I wait for 10/ 20 minutes then it starts a gain but not with out flooding....
I took the car to Pro- Stock ... they changed the carb..
To a 650. And they changed the fuel regulator 3 times .... changed the fuel relay...... changed the fuel pump... twice... it was new but they changed it anyway... it was a mechanical....then they changed it to a electric fuel pump... still does the same thing...
But still charged me $2300.00
The shop that had the car before them was Unlimited..... heres what I think maybe... this shop called Unlimited removed the return fuel line.
I just noticed it a week a go......
I told the shop called Pro-stock and they it's ok to remove that line.....
Can someone please tell me ... should I put a return fuel line back on the car to stop this carb from flooding when engine warms up...
And I did wrap the other fuel line as well thinking it was heat seal.
Can you please e-mail me any advice please.
Thankyou so so much .... Brent Robinson.
brent_robinson43@hotmail.com

 

It would appear you are suffering from heat soak of the fuel line. the fuel line is real close to the d/s header as it approaches the engine compartment. I had a similar problem with my 5. swap and I used reflective insulated sleeves on the fuel line from the carb all the way down passed the transmission x member I actually bought 2 sizes and made it a double layer thick. No more problem. you don't need a return line with a low pressure pump and carb but you might want a FPR. Also make sure your gas cap is vented. The original rotary motor had the exhaust on the p/s as far away from the fuel line as possible on the d/s . I also wrapped the headers and engine pipe down passed the trans x member also.