d k

Seems like cost per mile driven, the LS swaps seem to be a very reliable option.

Just trying to see if any of you swappers wish they kept the rotary or went a different route?

Thanks

David

Littleguy

iTrader: (5)

Not no.....hell no!

d k

Bowtie7

iTrader: (8)

Hi David, I've built 12 LS swapped 7's at this time both FC and FD and I maintain them and others. I personally feel that it is a perfect combination of power, handling, and great looks not to mention increased gas mileage. I would not hesitate to jump in my LS2 powered FC and travel cross country at any time. The fact that a completely stock LS3 w/GMPP hotcam in our race car makes over 450 whp just makes me happy. The engine cost less than a good quality rebuild on a 3 rotor and won't grenade with a tank of bad gas.

I still have rotary powered cars and have for over 25 years but the V8 option just makes good sense to me.

AWD-RWD racer

iTrader: (5)

never looked back. although i miss the exhaust sound, revving to 8k, and shooting 6 ft flames out of the exhaust.

armt350

iTrader: (3)

I would never go back the rotary, It was a good design in theory but the headaches just were not worth it.

Vader

As I said in the last thread, I miss the original set up of the car. Twins running sequencial, normal bolt ons, 300(ish)RWH. Best, most responsive car ever. Nothing I drive ever compares.
That being said. I love my LS1, although it is a lot different. I feel the weight/balance difference. The handling is different. That is really the only thing i'm regretting so far, and I might be able to tune it out with a different suspension set up, which is actually I came on here today to talk about.

PakmanBrad

I have an FD and I'm putting out about 390hp, but the 20yr old rotary gives me headaches at the moment. I'm trying to decide between doing an LS1 swap on my FD or going for a 3 rotor... it seems much cheaper to do the LS1, but my dad who has been building cars since before i was born (owns a shop + owned numerous shops in the past ) said that the notorious handling of the FD would be completely different and I would hate it... I don't wanna make an expensive decision that I will regret... any thoughts?

LargeOrangeFont

iTrader: (7)

The swap will not change the handling of the car. The weight distribution is unaffected in an FD. Typical LS swaps in FDs are at 50/50 or slightly heavier in the rear. You may need to slightly adjust your suspension setup to better handle the midrange torque, but that is it. The swap itself does not really and any weight to the car if you use an aluminium block. The transmission is the only thing that is heavier. An NA LS engine and a turbo Rotary are similar in weight.

I just did this swap on my track car my FC, the handling did not change much at all aside from what I expected from removing the rear sway bar.

nickv09

10 second car that gets over 25 mpg= awesome! haha

97SupraTwinTurbo

iTrader: (8)

If you build a LS/FD, get a corner balance. Your car will feel a million times better. Choose the correct rake and the suspension tuner will take it from there to get you dialed in. The difference in weight might be minimal but where that weight is makes a difference but you can correct that with a corner balance.

gnx7

iTrader: (10)

If you have the $....... do it and never look back.

I'm keeping up with the top 10% of the fastest race cars in my track club who are on new slicks (turbo porsches/2100lb full track N/A Porsches, Corvettes, Ferraris, etc), driving to/from all the events (they trailer), all while having full tread depth 6 year old Toyo RA1's on my car. Whoever says the handling is ruined has never driven a converted one.

Waving to them trailering their cars as I drive home, knocking down 20mpg+ highway, and running mid 10's the next weekend. Gotta love this swap.

Mechanically my car has had no issues in over 3K miles. Simple naturally aspirated 650hp+/600ft/lbs tq+ on pump gas. No exotic tuners to fly in needed.

Maintains 50/50% weight balance.

ksnew

iTrader: (2)

complete myth. even if you 5.3 iron block swapped it you wouldn't hardly tell a difference, if any. I have a ls1 swapped fd and can't notice any negative handling from the swap. the only time I run into understeer issues is when my front tires suck, or are getting extremely low on tread.

I kind of wish mine was rotary sometimes. I miss the sound. I hate how v8's sound (sounds like a box of rocks)

Mr3plus1

iTrader: (5)

When I started my swap I drove the crap out of my FD. By the time I finished my commute to work was a whopping 5mins. So, reliability-wise, I could have dropped in a bridge ported motor and it would have taken me a decade to need a rebuild. If its a weekend toy or you put limited mileage on it like me gas mileage shouldnt be a deciding factor either.

What it really comes down to is the amount of power you want to make and how much driveability you're willing to sacrifice for that given power level. 500hp on a rotary comes out a whole lot different than 500hp out of a LS motor. I prefer lots of torque down low. I think it makes the car more fun traffic light to traffic light - which is the majority of my driving. If I did a lot of highway driving or back country roads I think the rotary would be more fun.


Also, I miss the blow off valve and the backfires. I know it sounds juvenile but it was unique. The V8 isnt really unique...its all business. Its brutal and awesome, but it has no time for weird ****.

Cuzzynz

have had both still like rotary.. but man the v8s are just more reliable if properly built

gear_grinder

iTrader: (4)

truth on the engine weight, literally the only difference in material components are the blocks and bare blocks have been weighed. The iron block is only about ~68lbs heavier then the aluminum blocks (the actual engines compared will vary slightly due to bore size and other slight casting differences)

ksnew

iTrader: (2)