1chrisapple

ok so let me start off with i am new here.beend reading a whole lot on everysite i can find.now for the ones that are rotary purists i really dont care that u think i should swap a rotary engine back into my car.it is getting a ls based engine regardless of what other people think its my car plain and simple.

i have found a 4.8 with wiring and ecu for $550 pulled

now i have some questions

how many wires can i strip the 4.8 harness down to run. pics if u have any
i want bare bones harness with check engine light. not paying 500 for someone to make one.

what do you guys do for a cheap drive shaft not paying $320 for one.is there a yoke from a diff. car that will fit the rx7 drive shaft just hhave to lenghten or shorten the tube?

what about engine mounts i really dont want to pay granny speed shop there stuff is high. is there any one who has done custom setup like reinforcing the stock cradle and using universal ls mounts.

anybody do there own trans crossmember ill be using 4l60

also fuel pump the 7 has a new one but will it run the ls motor or will i need to swap a diff. one into it


i have found basically the same radiator as grannys for $130 shipped

.my budget is no more than $2000 i have a pretty damn clean fc no engine or trans in it so i want to build it to a nice summer cruiser


also if someone has these parts they want to sell for less than new price i might beinterested in some of them thnx alot

1chrisapple

so absolutely no no one knows hu. well makes me wonder why i signed up lol

1chrisapple

so 71 views and not a single word.wow everyone welcome to the site

digitalsolo

iTrader: (2)

First of all, you're not on the swap site, you're on the rotary site, so the viewing is limited.

Secondly, your requests are vague and some of them a bit unrealistic.

To zip through them quickly:

1. You can remove all connectors wiring which you will not be using; which connectors would that be? Well, how do we know, you haven't said. Generally the rear O2 sensors and any emissions equipment can go. Are you DBW or drive by cable? What year? A picture won't show you much regarding wiring. You realize that harness will put the ECU by the driver's side headlight, right? People charge "500 dollars" to modify that harness to fit well in the chassis because it's a freaking lot of work.

2. Have a local place make the driveshaft, my local place does it for <200.00 for a nice steel driveshaft. They can tell you what to measure once you have the engine/transmission installed. You will need a rear flange from Mazdatrix to connect it to the rear diff. Granny's also sells the flange, but Mazdatrix is cheaper.

3. Granny's mounts are actually pretty cheap. The Ronin kit is MUCH better. If you want to fabricate your own, by all means, go for it. It's not terribly complicated, but if you don't understand how, you might want to get someone who does to help, it's a rather important part, with regard to both placement and strength.

4. Transmission crossmember is the same answer as engine. Don't forget you need exhaust clearance.

5. A stock TII pump is decent enough for a stock 4.8L LS. A stock N/A pump is not. Again, you didn't give any info.

6. Any radiator that fits and has sufficient cooling capacity will work fine, remember you need to build your own brackets and look into your own radiator fan and its associated brackets also.

Don't forget that your truck accessories (water pump, alternator, crank pulley, tensioner) will not fit, nor will the truck oil pan. You will need an F-Body pan and F-Body, CTS-V or Corvette accessories. Same with the intake/injectors/fuel rail.

$2000.00 to complete the entire swap is optimistic, but can be done if you are a competent fabricator. It sounds like you're in a bit over your head currently, you might want to do some more research on these swaps.

1chrisapple

Thnx digitalsolo but no im not in over my head i was probably gonna run a stock ls1 intanke fuel pump.build my own engine and trans mounts.i have the skill necessary to do this.also i have researched this for about a week straight just no real good v8 rx7 forum that i have found. The harness can be reworked within 1 day.the time to me is worth nothin i work for free lol. So just parts. I will build my exhasut from a mandrel kit.and use the cheapest routes possible for now.

So y cant i use truck accessories and oil pan

I know the trk accs. Stick out farther. Solution is to move radiator forward to clear them and the oil pan whats the reason it wont work.

Im keeping power steering.losing a/c and makeing a bare bones standalone gm harness. And running a 4l60e trans with my setup.

Thnx for the help

digitalsolo

iTrader: (2)

You've researched for a week and not found a forum for piston engine RX7 conversions? Seriously? That seems... really, really unlikely.

The same answer goes for basically all of your questions. Sounds like you've got it all figured out though, so I'm not sure why you're asking questions in the first place.

madbouncy

Look at a picture of a LS swap subframe, specifically in the steering rack area and then look at the various LS oil pans and you'll start to understand why some won't work.

As for wiring...
DIY LS1 harness mod instructions for dummies.

With all the custom work you're capable of I don't see why you won't be able to use whatever accessories you want since you'll have no problems modifying the engine bay and hood to fit what you need.

1chrisapple

damn dude is this not the v8 swap section of this forum.chill out man if u dont like it dont post ****

1chrisapple

cool man thnx for the link i found a couple links to good wiring breakdowns on site lt1swap.com.

im not trying to brag about the fab skills.im just trying to make the point that it was assumed i dont know anything from the get go.does anyone know how much the truck accessories stick out past the stock ls1 stuff

digitalsolo

iTrader: (2)

I am aware that this is the V8 section, I am the moderator.

You have not searched for a V8 swap site, the first result on Google proves that. Your questions and statements are contradictory, hence the reason for my assumption that you are in over your head.

By all means, prove me wrong about you. Every question you are asking has been answered 100 times, just do a little searching instead of asking to be spoofed.

1chrisapple

well as moderator of this section of the forums i see why no one posts here bc there is such a friendly moderator floating around.lol

call it all u want.
v8rx7 forums no longer exist
there is the norotors.com which has no v8 section only and engineswap which i have read through.theres this site which has a v8 section go figure.
quite frankly i havent found any other sites for the 7
i have saw the granny speed shop junk
i have saw hinson super car stuff way over priced but nice
and i have even read ur build thread dude come on man stop being a *****.
you dont even know who is on the other end you are talking to yet come off with such an attitude right from the beginning all i can say is wow.
if u feel that i really havent searched enough here's some links i've searched

http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=456.0
1999 to 2002 Vortec PCM Pinouts
https://www.rx7club.com/v-8-powered-...thread-937439/
https://www.rx7club.com/build-thread...-build-953846/
Lighter = Faster (RX-7 Build #2))

now if im still missing the search part be kinda enough to post a nice link please instead of rude remarks thnx alot

1chrisapple

do u think this oil pan would clear the power steering rack?

86svo9l

Most of the builds on norotors are V8 builds and you can find a lot of data.

The truck accessories are quite a bit taller than would fit under the hood.

Here is a picture of my setup for comparison. For reference I run a T2 hood. The 90* elbow grazes my hood when closed, not much but it does. The truck intake is taller than the car intake and the alternator sits a bit higher than the throttlebody. Look at the hood line and its not hard to see that the truck accessories will not work.

I do not have a picture of the underside of my car. But the f body oil pan sump is about level with the bottom of the subframe and the front portion is about 1/8 inch from the steering rack. Truck pan just simply will not work without the sump being cut off and shortened. Which some guys have done and posted about.

Hope this helps and good luck with the search for info.

digitalsolo

iTrader: (2)

What the heck are you talking about? NoRotors is a freaking V8 SWAP SITE.

Regarding my attitude, well I own the other site and we have a few million hits, so. I do not suffer fools well, no argument there. I am not being particularly rude here regardless.

Sure if you jack up the driveline angles and stick the engine through the hood. We don't buy F body oil pans because were stupid and like to waste money, we do it because it is the cheapest and best option. The same with the accessory drives. This swap as essentially every detail mapped out and documented. Even how to do it as cheap as possible.

If you are a skilled fabricator this swap can be completed and driving in a weekend or two of work.

1chrisapple

Like i said before if u have to be an *** dude stop posting.i sure didnt know norotors is a v8 site bc all the rotary builds on there guess i didnt catch the name lol. Anyway man just bc u have built a car dont give u the right to treat me like **** on here and if u feel like a bigger person by doing it and throwing the fact that ur a mod around.well then u have some kinda complex or something missing in ur life that needs to be fulfilled and maybe u get it by being a flat out dick. Either way thnx for the help

1chrisapple

Thnx alot svo the pics and comments helped alot. If i was to just hack up a stock hood to fit everything and use a camaro oil pan.move my radiator forward and under the hood brace can i make this work? Then later on swap to camaro accessories.

Of not i may change the whole build to a 5.0 mustang swap i have a a $2000 budget and i am not going over that

86svo9l

Would you also be using the truck intake? You will have to modify if you use a car intake. Here is a picture from before I swapped to the f body crank pulley while I was mocking things up. I am sure with a slim fan you could pull it off. But you would have to hack the crap out of your hood and then still figure out how to run inlet piping. I will also include a picture of my setup with Fbody accessories, radiator and taurus fan. Only picture I have is from mockup however.

If you shop wisely you can piece together the Fbody front accessories for cheap. i was able to get everything for under $200 including alternator by waiting for the right deal to come around. Will save you a lot of headache.

Also most 5.0 swaps I have seen position the radiator quite a bit forward. The 5.0 is a longer engine than the LS series once all dressed out.

1chrisapple

i have found with digging a little more that a fiero radiator 3 row aluminum will slide down inbetween the round front tube and the bumper.if i cut the tube off rotate it and weld it back on the brackets that would be in the way would be under it so i think i can get the fiero radiator underneath the hood latch support.so should be plenty of room there i think.
now everything else will be truck stuff.except oil pan and exhaust manifolds.bc they absolutely wont work.the pics are worth a thousand words by the way so thnx

digitalsolo

iTrader: (2)

Again, what the heck are you talking about? There are NO rotary builds on the entire forum, and somewhere around 400-500 V6/V8 builds. Seriously, you are not making any sense at all.

I have not even come close to being a dick to you. You began throwing a tantrum because I noted that you might be in a bit over your head, based on the combination of your questions and statements. The fact that you are consistently ill-informed or simply wrong about topics you're discussing further backs this hypothesis.

Beyond that, I gave you a great deal of advice and individually answered each of your original questions with specific, useful answers. I've built more of these cars than almost anyone around. I've DOCUMENTED the answers to all of your questions on both this forum and the other, multiple times.

If you want to learn how to swap one of these cars, read THIS:

http://www.norotors.com/index.php?topic=1274.0

That's likely the single most complete build thread for an LS/FC around.

To end up with a completed, reliable swap for less than 2000 dollars is very difficult without a lot of research. A 5.0 build will be a little cheaper, though it will NOT clear the hood. Effort into either is about the same; since you're planning on doing all your own fabrication and you already have the LS motor, I don't see why you would bother starting over with a 5.0, stock it'll make ~60% the HP of the LS motor, even a 4.8.

It would be advisable for you to stay off the other forum though; apparently you're rather thin-skinned if you think this is outlandish behavior. The locals on the other forum would you eat you alive.

thethingthatshouldnotbe

Having a v8 fc. There is answers everywhere. Digitalsolo is the nicest guy I met on here. Most wouldn't even mess with answering.

1chrisapple

you are 100% correct digital i had the norotors and no pistons sites mixed up my bad i admit i am wrong here. and furthermore i went back and read what you postedin the first post and u r correct i read it the wrong way from the start.i am apologizing for my assinine attitude towards you i just took it the wrong way my mistake.

I dont already have a ls engine i wasgonna buyone with harness and no trans for $550

the more i look i dont think an ls is in my budget.
i can however buy a 5.0 ford explorer wrecked for under $1000 and can sell rearend and scrap the body.

my goals are stay under $2k and build a v8 rx7 i really dont care what engine plain and simple just want a summer beater no beauty queen.just something that works.

thethingthatshouldnotbe

Sbc

digitalsolo

iTrader: (2)

No worries man. I was just really, really confused about your comment about NoRotors, LOL. Cross it with NoPistons makes much more sense.

I know I'm abrupt on things, but don't take offense to it.

If you don't have the engine yet, a 5.0 is much cheaper; I would do some reading about the necessary oil pan/mounts/location for the 5.0. I think there are some funky things with the pickup locations/sump, but nothing too major.

-Blake

1chrisapple

ok man kool and thnx

I Love Balls!

**** you.