1979 Rx-7 Turbo LS powered.
09-28-13, 01:31 AM
#31
New personal best of 9.35. Same 20lbs of boost. I did install a set of drag radials. They hook better than the old slicks I ran!
******* mounted one tire backwards... had to fix it, but you get the idea...
Needed some tint too, now you can't see the cage of fuel cell from the side/back.
******* mounted one tire backwards... had to fix it, but you get the idea...
Needed some tint too, now you can't see the cage of fuel cell from the side/back.
10-19-13, 11:26 PM
#32
New best for the last race of the season. 9.04 @151! :drive:
Only got 3 T/O runs in. Spun the first time, blew the IC pipes the second. Last run was sooo close to 8's. I'm sure 25lbs would have got me there.
This was 23.8 lbs 15* of timing. 12lb launch.
Only got 3 T/O runs in. Spun the first time, blew the IC pipes the second. Last run was sooo close to 8's. I'm sure 25lbs would have got me there.
This was 23.8 lbs 15* of timing. 12lb launch.
10-28-13, 11:37 AM
#36
Thanks, Will do.
Need a whole slew of safety equipment before I try to push it any faster. This still only has a roll bar in it. Needs a full cage, chute, and a few other goodies. Hell I'm on the 1979 OEM brake calipers. Trying to slow this thing down is a little scary.
Plan to put a junkyard 6.0 and a new cam in this winter. Should make quite a bit more power.
Need a whole slew of safety equipment before I try to push it any faster. This still only has a roll bar in it. Needs a full cage, chute, and a few other goodies. Hell I'm on the 1979 OEM brake calipers. Trying to slow this thing down is a little scary.
Plan to put a junkyard 6.0 and a new cam in this winter. Should make quite a bit more power.
10-28-13, 12:35 PM
#37
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Location: fraser valley british columbia , Canada
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You know that thing is without a doubt a sleeper ! It does not look nor sound like it would be that fast . 11s maybe 10s but almost 8s holy crap ! Me like .
10-28-13, 09:29 PM
#38
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11-02-13, 09:46 PM
#41
Made the 8's!
Made 3 passes. New best... 8.93 @ 153. Boost peaked at 25.8lbs. 22-23lbs through most of the run.... 15* of timing.
Went to make a final pass and the car died on the line. Did the burn out fine, hit the T-brake and made about 15lbs, and it shut off. Something locked up, not sure if its motor or trans/converter yet. Had to tow it home.
Oh well, had a great year this was the most fun I've had drag racing in a long time! :drive:
Made 3 passes. New best... 8.93 @ 153. Boost peaked at 25.8lbs. 22-23lbs through most of the run.... 15* of timing.
Went to make a final pass and the car died on the line. Did the burn out fine, hit the T-brake and made about 15lbs, and it shut off. Something locked up, not sure if its motor or trans/converter yet. Had to tow it home.
Oh well, had a great year this was the most fun I've had drag racing in a long time! :drive:
11-02-13, 10:16 PM
#42
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Made the 8's! Made 3 passes. New best... 8.93 @ 153. Boost peaked at 25.8lbs. 22-23lbs through most of the run.... 15* of timing. Went to make a final pass and the car died on the line. Did the burn out fine, hit the T-brake and made about 15lbs, and it shut off. Something locked up, not sure if its motor or trans/converter yet. Had to tow it home. Oh well, had a great year this was the most fun I've had drag racing in a long time! :drive:
11-27-13, 11:56 AM
#45
8.93 pass...
I'm sure it will buff out...
So maybe I should have sprung for a new timing chain! Looks like the chain let go. Destroyed everything in a hurry. Cam lifters/block/heads... all beyond repair.
On a lighter note picked up a new engine for $500. 2006 4.8. These have the stronger rods and floating pistons. Next year should be a blast!
Sweet minivan engine lift setup.
I'm sure it will buff out...
So maybe I should have sprung for a new timing chain! Looks like the chain let go. Destroyed everything in a hurry. Cam lifters/block/heads... all beyond repair.
On a lighter note picked up a new engine for $500. 2006 4.8. These have the stronger rods and floating pistons. Next year should be a blast!
Sweet minivan engine lift setup.
11-27-13, 12:54 PM
#47
Thats old gramps mini van with a wheelchair lift. RIP gramps! He always got a kick out me moving engines with it so he left it to me.
12-29-13, 05:04 PM
#48
The 2008 5.3 I picked up for $500 had a slight miss according to the previous owner. He said he hoped it was a coil pack but swapped out coil packs with daily driver and they all tested fine. He didn't trouble shoot any farther.
Looks like the #1 cyl was oiling up the plug or not firing for one reason or another. Pulled the motor all apart and didn't find anything horrible. I should have checked compression on that cyl but it's a little late now.
Other than that it looked great. Took all the DOD (Drive On Demand) junk off. Seems simple enough. All of the lifters were in great shape. Looks like the DOD is only on the inner cyls so faulty DOD can't gum up the #1 cyl.
Heres a good plug compared to the #1.
Fancy 243 heads (aka "the good ones")
DOD junk (I'm eliminating all of this with a 2008 4.8 valley cover $28 new from GM)
Looks like the #1 cyl was oiling up the plug or not firing for one reason or another. Pulled the motor all apart and didn't find anything horrible. I should have checked compression on that cyl but it's a little late now.
Other than that it looked great. Took all the DOD (Drive On Demand) junk off. Seems simple enough. All of the lifters were in great shape. Looks like the DOD is only on the inner cyls so faulty DOD can't gum up the #1 cyl.
Heres a good plug compared to the #1.
Fancy 243 heads (aka "the good ones")
DOD junk (I'm eliminating all of this with a 2008 4.8 valley cover $28 new from GM)
02-06-14, 11:43 AM
#49
Got to play a little this weekend. The new heater works like a champ!
Cleaned up the 243's pretty good. May end up wetsanding them with some glass, the OEM finish was pretty rough. Did the same with the engine deck. I had always used the die-grinder with the plastic roloc pads to clean up the iron decks. I'm paranoid with the alum. block, so I went at it with razor blades, Keeping them at 90* to the deck surface and scraping the crap out of it. Seems to work pretty well, but there are lots of low spots with gasket material still in them.
Pulled my PAC 1218 springs off the old 317 heads and installed them on the new 243's. At the same time I checked all the valve seats. I went ahead and re-lapped most of the exhaust valves, though they all looked decent. Did both valves on my questionable #1 cylinder.
Also pulled a piston. Look at this bad boy compared to the old Gen 3 rods I was running!
Bearings looked new, cylinder walls looked great. The top ring was about .022 and the bottom .024 ish. I dont' think I'll bother regapping these. Can't believe how much carbon and crap was in the ringlands. One down.... 7 to go.
Glad I cheked the rings, 2 were as small as .018-.19 range. May have been fine, but tops are all at .022 now. Bottom were all at .024 to .025 so I didn't touch those.
Took a 9x4 sanding block and some 400 grit to the heads and block. You can actually see all the milling marks and low spots from the OEM machining. Never noticed those before! Probably ground them all away with roloc wheels. :beems:
Short block is done.
New CAM Installed ( 215/215 @ .050 112 .566 lift. )
Went with a Cloyes billet single roller this time around.
Ordered the cheap china head studs for $60
New OEM LS9 MLS haed gaskets
Hoping to have it ready to drop back in the car next weekend.
Cleaned up the 243's pretty good. May end up wetsanding them with some glass, the OEM finish was pretty rough. Did the same with the engine deck. I had always used the die-grinder with the plastic roloc pads to clean up the iron decks. I'm paranoid with the alum. block, so I went at it with razor blades, Keeping them at 90* to the deck surface and scraping the crap out of it. Seems to work pretty well, but there are lots of low spots with gasket material still in them.
Pulled my PAC 1218 springs off the old 317 heads and installed them on the new 243's. At the same time I checked all the valve seats. I went ahead and re-lapped most of the exhaust valves, though they all looked decent. Did both valves on my questionable #1 cylinder.
Also pulled a piston. Look at this bad boy compared to the old Gen 3 rods I was running!
Bearings looked new, cylinder walls looked great. The top ring was about .022 and the bottom .024 ish. I dont' think I'll bother regapping these. Can't believe how much carbon and crap was in the ringlands. One down.... 7 to go.
Glad I cheked the rings, 2 were as small as .018-.19 range. May have been fine, but tops are all at .022 now. Bottom were all at .024 to .025 so I didn't touch those.
Took a 9x4 sanding block and some 400 grit to the heads and block. You can actually see all the milling marks and low spots from the OEM machining. Never noticed those before! Probably ground them all away with roloc wheels. :beems:
Short block is done.
New CAM Installed ( 215/215 @ .050 112 .566 lift. )
Went with a Cloyes billet single roller this time around.
Ordered the cheap china head studs for $60
New OEM LS9 MLS haed gaskets
Hoping to have it ready to drop back in the car next weekend.
02-06-14, 11:45 AM
#50
Sanded the deck a bit more with 400g, then 600g. Looks and feels the same. Threw on the LS9 gaskets and cheap china head studs and torqued it all down to 70ftlb with ARP lube.
This is the DOD delete kit for $28 from GM parts direct. The LS1 intake clears that oil port in the back just fine. I did not install plugs on the oil ports.
Here is the massive timing chain play I have now without the damper installed. The OEM chain/gears I ran last year has like a half inch of deflection(I didn't run a damper on it either)
This is much better.
Almost nothing with the damper installed.
Installed an LS7 waterpump. (mainly for clearance) They are a little lighter as well. I used a 3-jaw puller to get the 1/4" or so necessary to line up with the Ls1 crank pulley. This was actually a pain. The pulley was very stubborn, even with heat. Surprised I didn't damage it. I later found out there are 1/4" water pump spacers on ebay for $30. :beems:
LS1 VS LS7
Pulled out the heater fittings (alot easier if you get them nice and hot first I found out) and Retapped the heater lines.
Instead of messing with metric/us/NPT adapters for the mech. oil pressure I just drilled out the original sending unit and tapped it. (yes, I know it's not straight)
This is the DOD delete kit for $28 from GM parts direct. The LS1 intake clears that oil port in the back just fine. I did not install plugs on the oil ports.
Here is the massive timing chain play I have now without the damper installed. The OEM chain/gears I ran last year has like a half inch of deflection(I didn't run a damper on it either)
This is much better.
Almost nothing with the damper installed.
Installed an LS7 waterpump. (mainly for clearance) They are a little lighter as well. I used a 3-jaw puller to get the 1/4" or so necessary to line up with the Ls1 crank pulley. This was actually a pain. The pulley was very stubborn, even with heat. Surprised I didn't damage it. I later found out there are 1/4" water pump spacers on ebay for $30. :beems:
LS1 VS LS7
Pulled out the heater fittings (alot easier if you get them nice and hot first I found out) and Retapped the heater lines.
Instead of messing with metric/us/NPT adapters for the mech. oil pressure I just drilled out the original sending unit and tapped it. (yes, I know it's not straight)
