No. Doing those procedures will NOT tell you if you're losing fuel at 7000 RPM. It WILL tell you what, if any, parts of your fuel system are ******* up/out of spec when the system is pressurized, though. Remember this is just when the key is on, and the engine is OFF. The fuel pump will energize/turn on for approx. two seconds while the key is on, then turn off. This happens to pressurize the fuel system, so you can start the car.

It seems to me like you may have a fuel pressure, OR a fuel VOLUME problem. Make sure the pressure is in spec, but for a TII fuel pump, or FD pump...I forgot which you are using. Whatever it is, use the specs for whatever pump you're using.

Also, regarding volume. If you are using an upgraded fuel pump, are your fuel lines big enough to flow the amount of fuel you need at that high of an RPM? I don't know if FD's and TII's used different sized feed lines, or different sized rails, but that COULD be what is leaning you out.

See where I'm getting here? You may have enough fuel all over the RPM range from 1000 to 6000 RPM, but past that you are leaning out. For some reason you're not getting enough fuel at high RPM's, when it's needed most.

If you're still using the stock regulator, it may have gone to ****. Those tests should guide you in the right direction. If it is indeed the regulator, you might want to look into an aftermarket adjustable regulator. Check Summit or something.

Good luck, PM me if you need any help.

James

 

Got the timing set yesterday. It's idling smoother now and the butt dyno indicates a more continuous powerband after 7k. Eventually I will mess with the fuel issue, once I get my auxilary ports finally working right and get my DTSS eliminator bushings in.

Thanks again for everybody's help.

 

Nice job with your car. I like that your concept is to have a great running street car.

How do you like the Racing Beat lightweight steel flywheel? Does it cause you any grief in stop and go traffic?

 

It did when I had a 4 puck clutch.

It's certainly more touchy than my Supra w/ a stock flywheel... but it's not that big of a deal in traffic with my ACT performance organic disc. Honestly it's been so long since I've driven an N/A with a stock flywheel I can't really make a comparison easily.

 

I've got a Stage 3 Sprung 6 Puck..... on the stock flywheel... ever been rearended? thats what inching in traffic feels like.

 

pretty much

 

I've got the RB aluminum flywheel with a stock clutch and an ACT +34% pressure plate. I have no problems in normal driving. Sure, it takes a bit of getting used to, but its very doable. Thats also the only setup I've driven an RX-7 with, so I have no means of comparison.

 

I would Retard the timing a bit and not have it so advanced. Also I would install a S5 intake manifold. That will smooth out above 5000 rpm A LOT. Try and get your AFR down above 5000 rpm and you should hit near 190 or so.

 

Why not just put the timing at stock

 

timing is fine now. My s4 manifolds are already ported and I don't really have the time to swap in an s5 manifold.